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Sexy Savage X

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HSPGuy2190

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$650 fully upgraded , should i buy ? :D
 
well i wanna buy a savage x stock and bash it till i break sumthing , then use upgrade parts , what brand would u suggest
 
I certainly wouldn't want to bash with it, but I really like that body!
 
weak cast crap look good but thats bout it
if your gonna put it on your shelf then go for it

dunno dont do hpi but I'm sure most hop brands do stuff for savage just dont get integy

You must have one of those new keyboards. No punctuation keys at all eh? It makes your stuff extremely difficult to read.
 
Decide what your goals are. Do you have cash burning a hole in your pocket just itching to buy something that is brittle and should stay on a shelf because of it?? Do you want an over-priced expensive truck to look at?? Then buy it.

Do you want a Savage to beat on and run?? Then don't buy it. The choice is yours.

That truck is chalk full of 'modifications' and 'upgrades' that are completely useless(if not a total hinderance) to running and even light bashing. Every single thing on that truck will bend or snap the first time you run it. If you want a good basher you need to keep stuff plastic or nylon(RPM). You also need to keep it lighter(no gawdy aluminum rubbish).


Other than that.... the body is super nice lol.
 
Hi
When I bought my hpi 106364 Savage X 4.6 Big Block, it was not impulse shopping.
I valued the common sense of the several-forum's I frequent, regulars who knew their stuff already, been there done that. I learned those blingged out cars/trucks loaded with metal parts often develop a crack or bend on stress points and can't be straightened out. Yes they look great, but are super heavy, especially on the motor and fuel tank as well.
I had spent plenty of time reading specs and evaluating my needs as a first time buyer.
When I read how, very many of the upgrades that people often do, to their Savage trucks, had already been added to the factory construction of this model, and how much those extra parts would have cost me after all was said and done, it made a lot of sense/cents, to too buy them preassembled. But Most RTR kits are great these days, and as stated, you can't go wrong with.

Decide how and where you'll mostly use it and go from there.
I hope you find something that you like, preferably with plenty of black under the fancy cover. I think we all agree the body on that is delicious, but the shiny stuff under neath has got to go!!

Chas
 
Gee I didn't know I had to pass a grammar test to post lol. Fyi i'm on my phone :)
Back to the topic aluminum =all show,breaks.plastic bends and cheaper to replace for a basher
 
Buy a stock savage then upgrade parts as they break. Although I've heard breaking them might be difficult, if you do need to replace parts go with RPM.
 
Buy a stock savage then upgrade parts as they break. Although I've heard breaking them might be difficult, if you do need to replace parts go with RPM.

Actually RPM arms are not necessarily the best idea on a savage. On a traxxas product they are the only way to go but on my XL I had a problem with bending front dogbones while running the RPM arms. I dont know if this is a common problem or just something that I was experiencing but it seemed like the arms flexed a bit to much and would bend/break the dogbones.
 
Sure is purdy. :)

I stick with alloy core, plastic parts are for the things that stick out like arms/towers. I've never broken an HPI arm or tower on any savage I've owned, but they were all "21" parts. Even now, with my X, I've had a few hard tumbles and nothing busted yet.

Integy is soft, bends/cracks/breaks/strips out easy. If your going to go alloy, go with Fast Lane Machine or Golden Horizon. Even then, I'd stay clear of arms/towers being alloy.
 
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