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Setting up my Slash 4x4 to race. Which motor should I buy?

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The stock 3500kv will be better . that tekin you showed thru link is a 540 size motor to run that 4x4 id stay with a 550 at 3500kv on 2 cells...
 
tntpoof said:
The stock 3500kv will be better . that tekin you showed thru link is a 540 size motor to run that 4x4 id stay with a 550 at 3500kv on 2 cells...
Click to expand...
Okay. Are there any motors you would suggest?
 
 
 
You already have a good motor. Buying fancy parts won't make you win races. Practice time, and learning to set up your truck properly (and having the proper tools to do so) will get you much further towards a podium finish than fancy parts ever will. If you're serious about racing short course, do you have the following tools?

  • Temperature gun
  • Camber gauge
  • Toe-in gauge
  • Ride height gauge
  • Digital calipers (for setting shock length, tie rod length, etc)
  • A GOOD set of hex drivers
  • A selection of spare pinions and spur gears
Until you have all of those things in your track bag, stop worrying about hotter motors. Also, fun fact; I'd say 75% of the time, guys that go to a hotter motor setup thinking it will get them on the podium have just the opposite effect. It ends up making a truck that's predictable and easy to drive turn into a handful to keep under control, and lap times suffer due to it. Be aware also that the track you are planning to run on probably has rules regarding motor and battery pack limitations to keep it fair. Have you checked into that before buying things? The key to being fast on a track is being smooth, smooth with your throttle and steering inputs, finding the smoother lines, setting up your suspension properly so the truck not only handles the bumps and jumps but transitions smoothly from throttle to braking, etc. Also, slow in, fast out.
 
HPIguy said:
You already have a good motor. Buying fancy parts won't make you win races. Practice time, and learning to set up your truck properly (and having the proper tools to do so) will get you much further towards a podium finish than fancy parts ever will. If you're serious about racing short course, do you have the following tools?

  • Temperature gun
  • Camber gauge
  • Toe-in gauge
  • Ride height gauge
  • Digital calipers (for setting shock length, tie rod length, etc)
  • A GOOD set of hex drivers
  • A selection of spare pinions and spur gears
Until you have all of those things in your track bag, stop worrying about hotter motors. Also, fun fact; I'd say 75% of the time, guys that go to a hotter motor setup thinking it will get them on the podium have just the opposite effect. It ends up making a truck that's predictable and easy to drive turn into a handful to keep under control, and lap times suffer due to it. Be aware also that the track you are planning to run on probably has rules regarding motor and battery pack limitations to keep it fair. Have you checked into that before buying things? The key to being fast on a track is being smooth, smooth with your throttle and steering inputs, finding the smoother lines, setting up your suspension properly so the truck not only handles the bumps and jumps but transitions smoothly from throttle to braking, etc. Also, slow in, fast out.
Click to expand...
I have:
  • A GOOD set of hex drivers
  • A selection of spare pinions and spur gears
  • Ride height gauge
Thanks for the help, I'm a total newbie still
 
HPIguy said:
You already have a good motor. Buying fancy parts won't make you win races. Practice time, and learning to set up your truck properly (and having the proper tools to do so) will get you much further towards a podium finish than fancy parts ever will. If you're serious about racing short course, do you have the following tools?

  • Temperature gun
  • Camber gauge
  • Toe-in gauge
  • Ride height gauge
  • Digital calipers (for setting shock length, tie rod length, etc)
  • A GOOD set of hex drivers
  • A selection of spare pinions and spur gears
Until you have all of those things in your track bag, stop worrying about hotter motors. Also, fun fact; I'd say 75% of the time, guys that go to a hotter motor setup thinking it will get them on the podium have just the opposite effect. It ends up making a truck that's predictable and easy to drive turn into a handful to keep under control, and lap times suffer due to it. Be aware also that the track you are planning to run on probably has rules regarding motor and battery pack limitations to keep it fair. Have you checked into that before buying things? The key to being fast on a track is being smooth, smooth with your throttle and steering inputs, finding the smoother lines, setting up your suspension properly so the truck not only handles the bumps and jumps but transitions smoothly from throttle to braking, etc. Also, slow in, fast out.
Click to expand...
I agree, most of your winning drivers have more time in their car than they do money.
 
When you race at certain tracks they will have class rules. There will be motor, esc and battery limits. You may want to check before buying anything. For example, in the parking lot series in my area tlot only allow 2S batteries. 4WD SCT can be a wild class with a lot of over aggressive drivers. Some tracks don't allow the class at all, especially, indoor tracks.
 
MD6 said:
When you race at certain tracks they will have class rules. There will be motor, esc and battery limits. You may want to check before buying anything. For example, in the parking lot series in my area tlot only allow 2S batteries. 4WD SCT can be a wild class with a lot of over aggressive drivers. Some tracks don't allow the class at all, especially, indoor tracks.
Click to expand...
Yup, I checked the class rules for my track out! They have tons of different classes, all of the SCT classes (7) mine qualified for, except the 2 that are for 2wd only. Thanks for telling me about 4x4 drivers! my car is about 0.6 pound over the limit, so qualifying for the weight won't be a problem lol.
 
The RC Car said:
I have:
  • A GOOD set of hex drivers
  • A selection of spare pinions and spur gears
  • Ride height gauge
Thanks for the help, I'm a total newbie still
Click to expand...
Concentrate on tyres too , I used to race many years ago had a kyosho Lazer zxr ii, I ran a 10 double brushed, Sanyo scrc 1800mah Nicd matched 7.2v sadlepack. They changed the Layout each week but the surface was always the same. I used Schumacher blue compound pin spike tyres .
i had a aftermarket spur which could be swapped quickly also a variety of pinions, ideally you want to reach your top speed about 3/4 length of the straight you’ll have to experiment with your set ups , gain experience of what suits your driving style, the stick motor isn’t bad , in some respects low torque will let you keep control easier, but then it will hinder you getting the power on down the straight , you got to find a happy medium, take what people suggest as a guide not as rule, I find my friends cars are set up to twitchy for me also he doesn’t like torque , I’m the opposite I don’t want my cars so Sensitive but I like good low torque, I like a little understeer , he likes the front really grippy , my car is faster in a straight line but on a lap we’re pretty equal , but I can’t drive his car he can’t drive mine . We just bash notcserious racing I’m 44 we used to race in 94 I won a season ?
 

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