Servo arm fixed link to bellcrank arm length question Long or Short

[332_RC]

I got this rig set last night. Here's the outcome. Really good. The servo is quick. The lines of parallel are good in any direction & throw is perfect. Didn't need much trim settings. The toe, can't see in pic, still needs a touch for this rig, but had to setup the servo & EPs 1st.

 

[Littlemotor]

I got this rig set last night. Here's the outcome. Really good. The servo is quick. The lines of parallel are good in any direction & throw is perfect. Didn't need much trim settings. The toe, can't see in pic, still needs a touch for this rig, but had to setup the servo & EPs 1st.

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Does not get any better than that. Nice work sir.

 

[sylentk]

I forgot about that move, will do as well. Thanks!

There are other holes in the chassis but probably for smaller servos, I assume, as the Protek would def not fit.

 

[332_RC]

Does not get any better than that. Nice work sir.

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Thanks bro! I'm learning!

 

[Littlemotor]

Thanks bro! I'm learning!

And TEACHING.

 

[RustyUs]

I suppose I can space out the ball nut more forward to make it more parallel. There are plenty of threads on it for that.

Just really didn't think anything about it, since it seems to work?

Something is not right with that servo and the way it sits. I believe an appropriate servo horn, like FT's 1370 with correct offset ball stub "nub", will get you closer to where you need to be with your steering link's orientation like shown below...

I would personally forgo the servo saver type horn on a lot of 1/10 scale platforms, because of today's robust metal gear servos out there for the pickin'.

 

[Lumikko]

My question is "am I missing anything here?" Comments? Suggestions? Currently running the "customized" servo saver.

I circled the parts where I’d add spacers to make the servo link angle a little less severe. The fit may be tight.

Adding spacers to the ball stud would also work but it will cause bending forces to the servo saver and it doesn’t look very strong.

Doing either of these will change the effective length of the servo link. You can use this to your benefit.

In the end, you want the servo horn to be square to the chassis when the bell cranks are centered. When this condition is true, your steering will be symmetric even if the servo link itself is not parallel or square to anything.

 

[sylentk]

Thanks guys!

I've tried to space out from the servo saver. Added a nut to the back to ensure stability. But it is a servo saver, so it does have some "suspension" to it.

Do anyone run servo savers? I could easily run the protek alum horn and space that out. I'm trying to error on the side of caution. Our track uses cones. Like ones that don't move. So easy to injure steering components. I'm old school. My Losi's had "savers" (we'll just call it flex) built into the bell crank. Even then you still ran a saver.

Notice in how far, in the pic @RustyUs posted how far it is spaced out? At this point, I'm like, did I miss that spacer in the instructions? Did it die in the crash? More analysis is needed.

I'm close. Going to try to scoot up the server. But it may hit the chassis posts. So only so much I can do there.

 

[WickedFog]

Thanks guys!

I've tried to space out from the servo saver. Added a nut to the back to ensure stability. But it is a servo saver, so it does have some "suspension" to it.

Do anyone run servo savers? I could easily run the protek alum horn and space that out. I'm trying to error on the side of caution. Our track uses cones. Like ones that don't move. So easy to injure steering components. I'm old school. My Losi's had "savers" (we'll just call it flex) built into the bell crank. Even then you still ran a saver.

Notice in how far, in the pic @RustyUs posted how far it is spaced out? At this point, I'm like, did I miss that spacer in the instructions? Did it die in the crash? More analysis is needed.

I'm close. Going to try to scoot up the server. But it may hit the chassis posts. So only so much I can do there.

You could remove that ball stuf in the horn and put some nuts on it then screw it back in. Just leave enough room for a nut on the back.

I typically do not run servo savers if the servo is strong enough. But it is hard on your servo if you wipe out. A lot of the higher end racers have the servo saver built into the bell crank.

 

[Lumikko]

On most 1/10 race buggies and trucks, 2WD and 4WD, there’s no servo saver and people most usually run aluminium servo horns. At least the better servos handle it with ease.

One thing you can do to protect the servo is to use a shorter horn. It trades servo speed for torque (if your servo is fast you might calm it down from the transmitter anyway) and inversely reduces the force coming from the wheels to the servo.

Avoiding a huge spacer stack on the servo horn is not only a matter of the horn itself bending, but the servo output shaft is loaded in unwanted ways when the radial force gets an extended moment arm. I’d prioritize spacing the servo itself if you can make it happen.