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chrisexv6

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I was hoping to be able to bring my TRX 2.5 to life, but for the life of me I can't. The best I've gotten so far is it will run until I take the glow ignitor off, then it dies. I figured it was too rich, so I leaned the HSN. Same thing. Leaned the LSN, same thing. Richened both, just in case, same thing.

The engine feels like it has good compression (i.e. decent resistance if I turn the flywheel by hand), but it just wont stay running without the glow ignitor.

The question, actually, is if I just dump this engine for the new Fantom I have. I've replaced the fuel tank and lines, but I want to be sure that there isnt something OTHER than the engine thats causing the TRX problems. The only thing I see odd is that there are two air bubbles in my fuel filter. I have the Sullivan CT-1 filter, with the two screens inside. I was thinking the tiny air bubbles are because of the fuel contacting those screens. Other than that, I see nothing out of the ordinary on the truck. I have to assume there is fuel pressure, otherwise it wouldnt run even with the ignitor hooked up (or would it?).

Any ideas? Id like to say "its because of the TRX", but at this point I can't be sure.

-Chris
 
Hey man,just change your glow plug.If it dies when you pull the igniter,its just a weak glow plug:breakdown
 
This means I went thru 2 brand new Dynamite MC-59s trying to get this thing to start.

I'm not saying its not the plug, but why would this happen with 2 brand new plugs?

-Chris
 
Originally posted by chrisexv6
This means I went thru 2 brand new Dynamite MC-59s trying to get this thing to start.

I'm not saying its not the plug, but why would this happen with 2 brand new plugs?

-Chris

Try the O.S. #8 plug. I used to run MC-59s until I was told to switch the OS 8 and I have never looked back. They work great....just trust us and try a new glow plug and tell us if it works....good luck
 
Do you leave your igniter on the plug for long periods of time when tring to start?That could be the cause of the plugs burning up.
 
air bubbles in the line could me and airleak somewhere in your system. Check and possibly replace your fuel line (pretty cheap), make sure your carb is in the body securly and check to make sure that your backing plate is on securly too.
You might want to go back to factory settings and start with the hsn, lsn and then idle speed, in that order. It could be a tuning prob. IMO
 
I've replaced the fuel line, its brand new as of yesterday.

I can see one of the plugs being burnt (I accidentally left the ignitor on it when I went inside to do something real quick), but I dont understand the second one not working.

Ill try a new plug, unfortunately the weather hates me lately, so I wont be able to use the truck for a few days. I can use that time to track down a new plug (probably an OS, per the suggestion earlier in the thread).

Backplate is tight, carb has brand new o-rings and is down tight. I've gone back to factory many many times, and the only thing I can replicate is getting it to run with the ignitor attached, but after that nothing. I tried leaving the ignitor attached and giving it throttle, it just stalled out. Further indication of a bad plug, perhaps?

-Chris
 
i like the MC-59's by McCoy , I run them on my TRX 2.5, and they run good. Just keep tinkering with your needles. Check your idle. It might be low

ahhh... can it be that your engine is about dead? Hows the compression? Later
 
I'd try richening the HSN, if that didn't work move it back to where it was and richen the LSN. I'd try 1/4 on the HSN first, no luck, move it back and try the same on the LSN.
 
Here's what I did to get 2 stubborn 2.5s to run for a couple of other guys before I had one.
They had both messed up the settings pretty badly, and had no info at that time for the factory settings.
Don't use a separate glow ignitor, just use the push button starter. Make sure you have a good charge in it. Set your HSN to factory setting. Have someone hold the starter button while you richen or lean the LSN till it idles smoothly and continues to idle after releasing the starter button. Now set you idle screw if it needs it. Have them hold the car down while you richen or lean the HSN and trigger the throttle in short bursts. When it pulls hard without stalling when you release the trigger, run it. Make your temp checks, and your final tweeks only to the HSN.
 
well using the glow wire on the 2.5 isnt a good idea cause they BLOW using a seperate glow stock is a much better idea because it heats the plug more and is hot before you start turning it over. With that said since you said when you give it gas with the ignitor on it just cuts out that makes me think your running rich on your HSN and when you take the ignitor off you may still be rich on your LSN too BTW just wondering what are your settings at right now??
 
Well, I fouled yet another glow plug.

I'm done with this engine. I have it at factory, checked and re-checked a ton of times. It fired right up with a new glow plug. Died when I gave it throttle. Wont run without the ignitor now.

What makes an engine run "too rich" aside from needle settings? I have it at factory, so it shouldnt be so rich that it fouls a glow plug!!!

-Chris
 
actually factory setting run rich so when you do breakin you have more than enough lube id try a new plug and leaning both the HSN and LSN. Also when you have it idleing with the ignitor on are you getting raw fuel out of the stinger if you put your hand under it.
 
I can feel fuel coming out. Technically, factory is too lean because I'm running a Motor Saver filter and Sirio pipe, so if anything it should be too lean.

The battery for my ignitor is now dead (non-rechargable, stupid idea), so I've given up for the night. Probably forever on this stupid engine, but maybe not. Need to pick up a rechargable ignitor, then maybe ill try this over again.

I still dont understand whats making it run so rich even at lean settings. Maybe the engine is shot after all.

-Chris
 
How many gallons do you have through it?? Dont get discouraged this poop happens to every one sometime or another so dont worry when it happens just leave everything as is and walk away for a while. Back to the problem i asure you your running too rich first lean the LSN out until it idles with out the ignitor keep leaning it out untill it does it may need to be leaner than you think and then do the same to the HSN
 
OK. I really need to back away from it tonight. Since I dont have a C-cell battery, I tried wiring up a D-cell to the plug (I know it lights, I watched it). Now the engine wont fire at all.

Before I break something else, I'm stepping away.

It has good compression, but its an engine I picked up from an LHS where someone "upgraded" the engine in their 'Maxx. The piston and sleeve are fine, so is the crank. I just replaced the engine bearings. Basically it should at least run!!! The piston and sleeve I had before even ran!!! it just overheated a lot. I've gone backwards, I can't even get the thing started. I at least hoped Id be in the same spot as I was before, but now I'm worse.

-Chris
 
believe it or not AA's work in the C cell ignitors thats what i use in a pinch when my rechargable is dead
 
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