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Scratch build Nitro tethered race car, second try!

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Enjoy yourself and your time with the family today, you need those fingers!

When this progect is done put some wheels on the wooden master, it would make a great display model. :thumbs-up:
 
Enjoy yourself and your time with the family today, you need those fingers!

When this progect is done put some wheels on the wooden master, it would make a great display model. :thumbs-up:

Cheers, have a great Christmas, yes fingers intact, no ‘spannering’ today!

I may use the wooden plug as the car body yet. Let’s see how the GRP version turns out.
 
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GRP has been laid up in the Lower mould, top mould has been waxed with release agent ready next

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Please make this end, I am fed up with sticky stuff everywhere!
 
Crossing my fingers for you, 🤞hope you get good results. :thumbs-up:

Thank you, I might need it, although even if it comes out with holes in, it can be patched, bit of filler/ GRP, sand it down and paint to cover the scars.

Failing that I could use the wooden plug, it’s actually quite light.
 
I gave the mould a slight twist to break the grip at the edges, Just need to tease a blunt blade in the gap

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I used 3 or 4 layers of mould release wax, plus the same of spray on PVA release agent, in the mould half’s before laying up the car body in the vain hope that my efforts would be rewarded with a straightforward release. To some extent this was borne out in my experience, the main reason for the PVA layer is that a stubborn release can be eased by introducing water into any tiny gap between the mould and the car body and this makes the PVA layer go quite slimy and massively eases the process of getting the thing out of the mould.

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And ….its out!
 
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And the lower half, again needs fitting, slots required for the shafts to drop into and one to allow the crown gear to poke through.

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Finish is a bit rough, but it will need sanding to take paint anyway.

One source of annoyance is that the top moulding, which curls in very slightly along its lower edge, has sprung inwards, which means the top moulding doesn’t quite match the width of the lower moulding at their mating face.

I could spring the top to fit, alternatively I could join them permanently, temporarily springing the top during curing.

I can see pros and cons to this, joining them makes the final body stronger plus better looking, no joint showing and allows neat fitting of the front grille, keeping them separate makes the lower part permanently fixed to the car with the top easier to fit when in use, but would require the grille to be bonded to either the top or bottom half and the fit isn’t going to be as neat or as strong.
 
And seeing as I am going to have to order the paint next, what colour should it be?

Because it’s a fairly generic 1950’s F1 body shape I could go for a British car like the Vanwall in green or Ferrari in red?

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I've always loved the racing green you see on the British race cars. Yeah, BRG!

OK I agree, despite having some red paint left from my last model, green it is!

I am quite tempted by Mini ‘ Metallic British Racing Green’ it doesn’t look quite as dull as the real flat colour.

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M

I expect motor factor supplies will do this colour, I find the Tamiya colour selection bewildering.
 
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