well mine started to get the clicking noise like i have been hearing about and it is apart on the table. before i break the diff open i am wondering if anyone know exactly where the shim is supposed to be placed and what if anything i should be looking for while i am in there.
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sc10 diff issue
- Thread starter ibmenace
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- Thread starter
- #2
ok found some good insight on associated but looks a like a pain and from what i am hearing this is not the long term fix. guys say that it happens again and again so i will be calling associated before i get into this one
but will update and drop the info and end result.
but will update and drop the info and end result.
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hmm so its obviously a glitch i guess you would call it, with the sc10?
- Thread starter
- #4
yeah, but about the only one! but that is the only issue that i have came across, i love this truck, and power and performance out of the box is unmatched for a short course truck. well maybe until the losi comes out
- Thread starter
- #6
yeah chuck i do, and on a good note here i just found the instructions that i needed with pics, i need them too but looks like any other shim up so i should be back at it tomorrow. but hey learned a lil about this truck in the process and thats always good huh! but yeah chuck the rtr was a couple dollars more and included i think nice electronics but cheesy remote as opposed to building and buying it all. but like everything else i am sure to be upgrading it soon. my buddy marauder is pushin me towards brushless. i am thinking a mild setup like a novak 8.5 sport. i think that should do it!!
but looks like any other shim up so i should be back at it tomorrow. but hey learned a lil about this truck in the process and thats always good huh! but yeah chuck the rtr was a couple dollars more and included i think nice electronics but cheesy remote as opposed to building and buying it all. but like everything else i am sure to be upgrading it soon. my buddy marauder is pushin me towards brushless. i am thinking a mild setup like a novak 8.5 sport. i think that should do it!!
chuck3
RCTalk Addict
a BL setup is definatly the way to go if you want to get teh full potential out of your rig. the diff gear on the RTR is a metal one isnt it? the one in the kit is plastic, one of the few downers to the kit IMO.
anyway, I think the clicking is probably coming from the gears inside teh diff slipping on each other. hopefully the kit doesn't do that.
anyway, I think the clicking is probably coming from the gears inside teh diff slipping on each other. hopefully the kit doesn't do that.
- Thread starter
- #8
yeah, the kit had plastic in it and the new rtr has medal and will take the power of a brushless setup, that is the way i understand it anyway through other forums. but have yet to see one with brushless personally but this truck is steam rolling in popularity. and yes the shims supplied for the kits were thinner also and the one i am about to use is supposed to be thicker and problem solved they say. the shim will mesh the gears tighter and by all logic should make the gear slip and noice go away.
- Thread starter
- #9
ok, a shim on each side and problem solved, for now at least. and the diff is all medal but the tranny gears that turn the diff are plastic but thick and seem sufficient but i will be looking to see if these are upgradable also.
timberline97
RCTalk Rookie
I just recently had to rebuild the diff in mine. I used some of the old shims to add to the rebuild.
ditch the gear diff and put a T4 ball diff in it. You need the T4 trans case and complete ball diff assembly. I havent had an issue with mine since.
As for fixing the gear diff, the shim goes under washer that is between the drive pin ( in the outdrive) and the outdrive bearing. What happens is the force of the gears trying to push each other apart eventually cracks the washer and allows the bevel gear to push away and slip. The shim braces the weak spot and seems to be a reliable fix. I just like the ease of tuning a ball diff. Pop a turnbuckle and turn a screw and you're done.
As for fixing the gear diff, the shim goes under washer that is between the drive pin ( in the outdrive) and the outdrive bearing. What happens is the force of the gears trying to push each other apart eventually cracks the washer and allows the bevel gear to push away and slip. The shim braces the weak spot and seems to be a reliable fix. I just like the ease of tuning a ball diff. Pop a turnbuckle and turn a screw and you're done.
Well I had it kind of figure out while talking to the tech support. They told me just add the shims on top of the other shims on the inside diffs but I have that working for a while not it is clicking again. I am trying to find stronger washer that will fit in there, I think the shims are blending under the stress.
slashkiller
RC Newbie
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I destroyed two diffs, one came in the truck (RTR), the other was borrowed from a friends parts truck(kit) I said the heck with it and ordered the MIP ball diff, hopefully the problem is going to solved.
