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Saw my first 325F+ engine temp today...

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olds97_lss

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In 8 years of nitro, today was a first...

Not really sure what the deal is with this guys engine. It feels like it has decent compression, I don't see any fuel leaking anywhere, the carb neck is sealed, backplate is sealed, tank seems ok, no apparent air leaks.

At first it would just start and die. So, we checked the clutch shoes, which were last seasons, replaced them. Then I relised his fuel was 20% nitro/16% oil which I've never had good luck with (years ago) in my big blocks.

We first set it back to factory, started it, it was so rich it would just die and not even really start. So, we tuned it to where it will idle (with a 2-3mm gap) and accellerate ok, but it would still load up and die if it sat and idled for more than a few seconds.

Then we switched out his fuel with mine (25% nitro/11% oil byrons race) and retuned the same. This time when we tuned it to idle/accelerate, we saw smoke all the time and I told him to just go easy and run my fuel through it for a bit (3-4 minutes) all the while seeing a nice stream of smoke, he came back, I checked the temp, 347F!... WTH!!!

I think the engine has seen the light. That light brought it a painful death.

What was really odd is that at 347F, it idle'd like a dream (10-15 seconds then accelerating without loading up), accelerated fine and generally ran fine. The smoke coming off the head is what made me stop him so I could temp it...

Anyone have any thoughts? It's a M26SS (aftershock engine) with probably 5-6 gallons on it. Mostly abused gallons... The first 4 were mine and I ran it like screaming mimi. But it seemed to run all day long around 250-260 when I had it. Tank after tank.
 
Replace the fuel lines?

Is there a binding issue anywhere?
 
The last time I had an issue like this, it turned out to be a backplate screw hole punched all the way through, causing an air leak. The engine "woodpeckered" on 20% Trinity fuel and hit high temps in less than 5 seconds. Only fix was to return the engine and warranty it.

Did you check the entire engine for leaks? Use some canned air and hold the engine so you can cover the exhaust and air intake at the same time, fill the engine with about 15-20 drops of oil, and gently pressurize the engine. If you have a torn o-ring in the carb, the oil will follow the air and seep right out. It might take two or three attempts, but it will work.
 
Yeah... his rear diff didn't sound too pleasant. Apparently he took the ring/pinion out of one diff and put it in another. My guess is he screwed up the shims as they are not really noticeable and if you don't know one is there, you may not notice two.

That seemed to be the only binding.
 
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