Savage X ss

[boothlufc]

Hi I'm relatively new to nitro RC cars. I bought and built a savage x SS kit. Long story short i have been trying to tune it for months now, And every time, i take it out the temp flys up to 150c after around 5-10mins of use, This is with all needles set to flush (factory settings). and the slipper clutch continually comes loose, if i try to tune the car and turn the hsn to make it more lean nothing really happens, it just gets warmer and warmer with still a sluggish and slow get away, The car very rarely dose a idle, it always wants to move then over heat, currently my engine is out of the car and slipper clutch out, as when i took it out sat it came very loose, any tips ideas would be much appreciated

Thanks Michael

 

[ChasCS]

Slow down

Hi I'm relatively new to nitro RC cars. I bought and built a savage x SS kit. Long story short i have been trying to tune it for months now, And every time, i take it out the temp flys up to 150c after around 5-10mins of use, This is with all needles set to flush (factory settings). and the slipper clutch continually comes loose, if i try to tune the car and turn the hsn to make it more lean nothing really happens, it just gets warmer and warmer with still a sluggish and slow get away, The car very rarely dose a idle, it always wants to move then over heat, currently my engine is out of the car and slipper clutch out, as when i took it out sat it came very loose, any tips ideas would be much appreciated

Thanks Michael

Hi Michael,
Just so you know, an RC nitro engine can run smooth and clean up around 220 ~245 without a problem. I find my Savage X 4.6 big block like to be right in around those temps. I'm talking degrees Fahrenheit not Celcius of course.

Chas

 

[boothlufc]

245 fahrenheit is around 120 celcius, Mines running around 150 celcius with a very rich mixture.

 

[avelciario]

on the spur gear put locktite on the thread of the transmission shaft and use self locking nut to be sure. make it full tight then loose 1/4 turn. And regarding to the engine temp, try to seal well your engine, fuel lines, and fuel tank maybe you got an air leak. What engine you have?

 

[boothlufc]

I have tryed lock tight, But will give ill have a look for a self locking nut, I have a Big block k4.6, Regarding a air leak it may be possible. I'm a gas fitter so i have used a leak detector fluid on it, coverd the filter etc, and blown down the fuel line with no leak, If there is another way i could check for a leak more than happy to give it ago.

Cheers

 

[Greywolf74]

Give this a once over
[ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=thEln8jrmhk"]Nitro Engine Air Leak Detection Vid 3 Squirrel's Ultimate Break In Guide II - YouTube[/ame]

 

[boothlufc]

So my engine was leak free before sat but...... THe bearing at the front has gone again and i have a air leak on the bloody thing. That is twice it has gone now without even tuneing it, Ready to trough it out of my window..

The leak is between the front bearing and the crankshaft, i have changed the bearing but still a little leak, hmmm

 

[srusinek]

HPI has a 2 year warrenty on all of their products if you bought it new. Just have them replace the engine and start over again. The downside of it is you're looking at atleast a 2 to 3 week turn around.

 

[boothlufc]

I took my savage apart over the week cleaned everything Got a self locking nut for my clutch, some new clutch shoe springs, and new fuel pipes. I have just set it going and to my shock it is idleing perfect, acceleration when it should and running what seems to be ok, i have yet to take it out properly, i am very weary about temp now. Just a question if you left your rc car idle for a couple of minute how hot dose the temp get at the glow plug???.

Also like to say thanks for all the advise, nice to be able to turn to somewhere when your just starting out.

Thanks Michael

 

[bifft it]

it should cool when it idles. a degree every 3 seconds or so. low needle is set about right if you get that 3 second cooling at idle
i have a picco and a LRP that sit and idle forever (as long as theres gas in the tank)and wont overload themselves. i thing thats a near perfect low needle/idle setting. other motors i have i can't seem to get to do the never ending idle gig!

 

[olds97_lss]

Mine typically run cool when sitting idling, but I tend to run a bit on the rich side, so they won't sit and idle forever without loading up some, then are sluggish on take off if I sit/idle for a minute. My temps stay below 200F while idling but generally run between 225-245 when running.

I had a similar issue with the engine that came with my X. It was used and obviously has a heavy leak on the bearing behind the flywheel as the entire engine/chassis plate were just soaked with oil. It wouldn't tune well at all. Decent power off the line, but a intermittent high idle/lean bog when I punched it off the line. This got worse and worse as the engine warmed up. Tended to run hot as well. I replaced the bearing with a spare I had, but it leaked pretty bad too, so instead of fussing around with it, I replaced the engine with an LRP as I've had great luck with those.

Kind of bummed me out as I was going to run the HPI engine at least for a winter engine. The pinch on it was also pretty weak, could not feel any pinch at all with the GP out. So, with a fresh pinch and new bearings, it may run better... but then I have $75 in an engine that I don't particularly care for as it has a roto-start, which I'd remove and put a pull-start on, so another $25... would be better off just buying a new "cheap" engine and using it for winter than I am fussing with this one.

With the pinch being weak and the bearing leaking oil everywhere, tuning wasn't going to go well. Heat makes both of those issues worse as things expand, it leaks more and the pinch allows more and more blow by.

So, now my savage sits in the winter and I threw a 3.3 back in my revo to run if I get the urge. I don't run my "good" engines (or ones I care about) in the winter as the cold is just too hard on them.