Savage with LRP.32 issues

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TheOneTrueMorty

RC Newbie
Messages
10
OK here is the thing : I just took out my old 4.6 savage from a 3 years long sleep and I replaced the former 4.6 engine by a brand new lrp.32, and the new engine doesn't even run on factory settings.
I replaced the tank and the lines, but the engine keeps going like bopbopbop and then it dies after 1 sec (after spitting a lot of oil), since all the other parts are stock where should I look first ?
Thanks for helping
 

USMC_Sgt817

RC Newbie
Military Veteran
Messages
10
Always check: Fuel, Air, Ignition. Check the fuel line for any clogs/debris and fuel is in the line. Air filter is clean and flows easy. Test the glow plug, should be a bright on visual inspection when removed. If all is good, there should be a 1mm gap in low-speed needle (idle gap) to start then make adjustments to add or lean fuel. There are some good vid's on YT, I just went through some since I'm getting back into RCs. I liked this guy "Nitrorcx Guide: Fine Tuning your Nitro RC Car" He also has a "how to setup your nitro engine" that is good. Most likely it's just the idle gap. :)
 
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TheOneTrueMorty

RC Newbie
Messages
10
The fuel is good I use 25% nitro racing fuel, for a moment I thought it was bad but I got similar results with fresh fuel, the filters are clean and the lines are new. I think it comes from the carburetor settings and the fact that the stock gas rod was too short for the new engine, I had to lengnthen it a bit. Thanks I'm gonna check the carb and see what's going wrong :D
 

TheOneTrueMorty

RC Newbie
Messages
10
I don't know the name but the piece of metal that connects the carb low end needle to the trottle servo, the one that fits on the carb ball attatch point
 

TheOneTrueMorty

RC Newbie
Messages
10
okay I've tried to start it and it failed again. It only starts for more than a sec when the idle gap is like 8mm wide and the low end is wery lean I don't understand.
I've changed the air filter and see what happens.
 

cbaker65

Hardcore RCNT User
Messages
3,691
Location
Kern county ,Calif.
okay I've tried to start it and it failed again. It only starts for more than a sec when the idle gap is like 8mm wide and the low end is wery lean I don't understand.
I've changed the air filter and see what happens.
If your LSN is very lean ,then it may not start ,that needle setting helps control idle to full throttle transitions!

Try opening it up a turn ,but always note your turns down ,it is best to run them in an count the turns ,then if all else
fails ,you can always put them back!

Dont over tighten them though if you do decide to do so ,an open up your throttle when running the LSN
in all the way!
 

olds97_lss

RCNT VIP
Supporter
Messages
19,476
Location
Dekalb, IL
RC Driving Style
Bashing
I don't know the name but the piece of metal that connects the carb low end needle to the trottle servo, the one that fits on the carb ball attatch point
Ah, got it. I usually just refer to that as the throttle linkage wire.

Any chance you can post a video of it starting/dying?
 

TheOneTrueMorty

RC Newbie
Messages
10
Great thanks for the turn note idea ! I didn't even thought about it
Ah okay thanks I didn't know that ;)
Well I'm pround to announce that it burned it first tank thanks to all of you ! :D
I put an HPI (it had a traxxas) gas line, it seemed a bit wider inside I don't know if it helps but now it works
The idle was too high and too rich at factory settings, but now it dies slowly when I brake so I'm close but I don't know what to do with the LSN to compensate the increase of the idle, I don't want to go back to a nitro nightmare
yeah sure I'll take it back monday for some more tests, I'll show you the tuning and take any advice :)
 

cbaker65

Hardcore RCNT User
Messages
3,691
Location
Kern county ,Calif.
Great thanks for the turn note idea ! I didn't even thought about it
Ah okay thanks I didn't know that ;)
Well I'm pround to announce that it burned it first tank thanks to all of you ! :D
I put an HPI (it had a traxxas) gas line, it seemed a bit wider inside I don't know if it helps but now it works
The idle was too high and too rich at factory settings, but now it dies slowly when I brake so I'm close but I don't know what to do with the LSN to compensate the increase of the idle, I don't want to go back to a nitro nightmare
yeah sure I'll take it back monday for some more tests, I'll show you the tuning and take any advice :)
There is other things to look out for other than the tune of the engine!
If you installed a new engine on old stuff ,as in other parts sitting around for a while ,you might need to check
the fuel tank an make sure it is clean an the lid seal is good ,the tank has to hold the pressure that is provided
for it from the muffler!

Always check your radio system ,make sure that the throttle trims are set proper when the radio is on ,if the
trim is not set right ,the slide barrel in the carb could either be closed too much or open too much ,if it closes
too much ,you can reset the idle screw on the carb. to keep it from closing too far an dieing!

Once you get it running ,an it is running too rich ,try leaning the Hsn in some ,say 1/8 turns at a time ,monitor
the heat when you make those adjustments!

Lsn setting ,once satisfied with the Hsn sets ,make a couple of passes to warm the engine up!

While idle ,stab the throttle ,if it bogs or stutters ,then you adjust the Lsn ,which way you turn it ,rich or lean?
That depends on the engine ,you can try either way ,but just make sure that you take notes of where the setting
was ,an only do 1/8 increment turns!

If the engines throttle response starts to get snappier ,then you are moving in the right direction!....:cool:
 

USMC_Sgt817

RC Newbie
Military Veteran
Messages
10
Great thanks for the turn note idea ! I didn't even thought about it
Ah okay thanks I didn't know that ;)
Well I'm pround to announce that it burned it first tank thanks to all of you ! :D
I put an HPI (it had a traxxas) gas line, it seemed a bit wider inside I don't know if it helps but now it works
The idle was too high and too rich at factory settings, but now it dies slowly when I brake so I'm close but I don't know what to do with the LSN to compensate the increase of the idle, I don't want to go back to a nitro nightmare
yeah sure I'll take it back monday for some more tests, I'll show you the tuning and take any advice :)
Yay! that's a step in the right direction! :)
 

TheOneTrueMorty

RC Newbie
Messages
10
Thanks I'll try to get this done right
Okay so I've took it out to see what is working and what is not. After 4 tanks I found out that it only starts with a tiny throttle on the radio and that it dies when i brake, it can't idle for 60sec but rather 30 and then it dies.The engine has a good throttle response at low RPM, did not go full speed since the engine has 2 more tank to go before finish breaking in
 

TheOneTrueMorty

RC Newbie
Messages
10
Back with news !
So i checked the engine and the tranny and the engine now works just fine, maybe a little rich but that's it
The thing is now it remains in first gear all the time, and i am thinking of changing the "gear shifter" whatever the name of this thing is
But the thing is if I buy the 3 speed tranny upgrade, will the car still be stuck in first gear or is there a new spring for the first to second shift in the kit ?
Or any idea of how to upgrade the transmission, since the new engine has more HP and run at same RPM as the old one i got spare torque to use
 

cbaker65

Hardcore RCNT User
Messages
3,691
Location
Kern county ,Calif.
Back with news !
So i checked the engine and the tranny and the engine now works just fine, maybe a little rich but that's it
The thing is now it remains in first gear all the time, and i am thinking of changing the "gear shifter" whatever the name of this thing is
But the thing is if I buy the 3 speed tranny upgrade, will the car still be stuck in first gear or is there a new spring for the first to second shift in the kit ?
Or any idea of how to upgrade the transmission, since the new engine has more HP and run at same RPM as the old one i got spare torque to use
Have you had the trans. out an apart?
The only way to learn about it ,is to tear it down to understand the issues!

That is the way that I had to do with mine ,although ,it is not a Savage ,mine had 2 issues ,one time ,the
spring was smashed in an would not spring back ,I replaced it with a stiffer cigarette lighter spring!....LOL

The other time ,the paw set screw loosened up an the paw had walked out of its housing just enough to
not be able to swing out to catch the pins for second gear to engage!

So ,just because it doesn't shift ,doesn't mean anything is broke ,however ,a couple things could be ,mine
also had a broke one way bearing ,a broke pin ,an one time ,I did snap the main gear shaft in half ,do to
not having my slipper gear not adjusted right for street runs!
 

TheOneTrueMorty

RC Newbie
Messages
10
Well I did change the spur gear ans cleaned up the first clutch, and unscrew as far as far i can the shifting screw but it didn't have any effect.
I m going to completely dissassemble the tranny, but I think the issue comes the spring inside; since I haven't used it in a while it might be damaged.
In fact even with the older engine I've never heard a shift so it was maybe overtighten and it's wrecked.
Well that's a great idea ! I'm definitly going to replace the spring and see if the problem goes away.
I checked it just by removing the top part of the case and it seemed fine, but yeah i think I should take a closer look to the gears and stuff
Thanks a lot ! :D
 

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