markallen
RCTalk Addict
wannarunem said:
I have never seen red loctite on the backplate screws before..Just send it I'll get em out for you..
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Savage S 25 engine mod
- Thread starter zepplin
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I have never seen red loctite on the backplate screws before..Just send it I'll get em out for you..
wannarunem
Hardcore RCTalk User
markallen said:
I think i will.....not sure how stripped out they are. You may have to drill them out.
Its not broke in all the way yet..id guess he will need to finish that first...should be done after the weekend
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- Thread starter
- #23
Would Red Locktite get soft if you heat it? At the risk of frying the backplate seal, I would try heating the head of the screw with a soldering iron.
Or would the heat make the stuff harder?
By the way, searched several hardware stores and I found a 3/32 cutter that looks like the one used in the article. The 3/32 dremil cutter serial number is 9904.
Out of curiosity, I tried fitting the sleeve back into the block.
I found that It is not going to just slide in. I did not try to force it in. I measured it with a micrometer, Then measuered the block with calipers.The fit is incredibly tight. I think when the time comes Ill have to heat the block and chill the sleeve in cold alcohol like was suggested a few post back.
Or would the heat make the stuff harder?
By the way, searched several hardware stores and I found a 3/32 cutter that looks like the one used in the article. The 3/32 dremil cutter serial number is 9904.
Out of curiosity, I tried fitting the sleeve back into the block.
I found that It is not going to just slide in. I did not try to force it in. I measured it with a micrometer, Then measuered the block with calipers.The fit is incredibly tight. I think when the time comes Ill have to heat the block and chill the sleeve in cold alcohol like was suggested a few post back.
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- Thread starter
- #25
I tryed machining a piece of brass pipe with my Dremill tool using the 3/32 cutter. I am sure that someone that has lots of skill engraving metal will have no problem doing this job.
For me, I found that it was just too easy for the cutter to kick, grab and jump around especiall in a tight space such as a port. I would quickly make junk out of my engine if were to attempt this...
I went out and got a good set of 6" needle files. Files are a lot easy to control and are much more forgiving to mistakes but it will take quite a bit more time. All the while that I am filing the sleeve I will be anticipating how this engine is going to scream when I finish.
MarkAllen,
If the unlikely event that I do something such as get the sleeve jammed in the block, I am hoping you will be there to bail me out.
-Joseph
For me, I found that it was just too easy for the cutter to kick, grab and jump around especiall in a tight space such as a port. I would quickly make junk out of my engine if were to attempt this...
I went out and got a good set of 6" needle files. Files are a lot easy to control and are much more forgiving to mistakes but it will take quite a bit more time. All the while that I am filing the sleeve I will be anticipating how this engine is going to scream when I finish.
MarkAllen,
If the unlikely event that I do something such as get the sleeve jammed in the block, I am hoping you will be there to bail me out.
-Joseph
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- Thread starter
- #26
If you look at the photo a post or two back
You can see there is a stain on the sleeve where the sleeve touches the block. I would think that for the correct angle and location would be to use this stain as a guide and to keep on to the Schnuerle port side of the stain when cutting.
Instead I followed the directions (make a mark on the sleeve.. make another .22" away from the first...connect tape to the top of the port to the second mark...).
I used the measurments that were given in the article and cut so far one of the two grooves. I doesn't look correct. The groove is partly on the shiny 'exhuast port' side of the stain. It looks like a different angle than the one in the illustration in the article and it looks like a different angle than that of the stain and the block.
Anyone know if what I wrote in the first paragraph is correct?
You can see there is a stain on the sleeve where the sleeve touches the block. I would think that for the correct angle and location would be to use this stain as a guide and to keep on to the Schnuerle port side of the stain when cutting.
Instead I followed the directions (make a mark on the sleeve.. make another .22" away from the first...connect tape to the top of the port to the second mark...).
I used the measurments that were given in the article and cut so far one of the two grooves. I doesn't look correct. The groove is partly on the shiny 'exhuast port' side of the stain. It looks like a different angle than the one in the illustration in the article and it looks like a different angle than that of the stain and the block.
Anyone know if what I wrote in the first paragraph is correct?
markallen
RCTalk Addict
zepplin said:
The angle the sleeve is stained it's the angle to grind it.It will match the block exactly..See you should have let me do it for you.. :jk:
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zepplin said:
If it's a matter of a tight fit going back IN, you don't need the cold alcohol, just put the sleeve in the freezer. When it's cold, heat the block, then take the sleeve out of the freezer and drop it in.
retarded pilot
Hardcore RCTalk User
markallen..
i would like to know how much to mod the s25 as well....i would assume this should be done after the motor is broken in or does it matter if its brand new?
i would like to know how much to mod the s25 as well....i would assume this should be done after the motor is broken in or does it matter if its brand new?
crzy-svg-usr
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I've had the problem of not getting it out heat the engine up and use a downl in the exhaust and it will pop out
- Thread starter
- #31
OK,
I have discovered that the chrome plating on the sleeve will quickly take the edge off a file. When cutting the exhaust port I first sanded down the chrome with a small abrasive stone.
I will next move on to the piston. The article says the area cut out is something like .507 by .375 " I think there is a typo in the article. For the cutout I think something like .25 not .375" would be more accurate. (The pin is located .375 from the skirt. you would cut the pin out if you took .375")
When it comes time to cut the exhaust port in the block I would think that I would raise the top clearance by the same amount that I raised on the port on the sleeve?
I would think this should be more than enough clearance to allow for the modification.
I have discovered that the chrome plating on the sleeve will quickly take the edge off a file. When cutting the exhaust port I first sanded down the chrome with a small abrasive stone.
I will next move on to the piston. The article says the area cut out is something like .507 by .375 " I think there is a typo in the article. For the cutout I think something like .25 not .375" would be more accurate. (The pin is located .375 from the skirt. you would cut the pin out if you took .375")
When it comes time to cut the exhaust port in the block I would think that I would raise the top clearance by the same amount that I raised on the port on the sleeve?
I would think this should be more than enough clearance to allow for the modification.
- Thread starter
- #33
What better way to remember out most honored civil rights crusader than to put the engine back together (with all the modified parts) and to start it up in my bedroom. 
(well starting the truck up on a warm day at the park would have been better)
The bugger cranked over on the second yank of the pullstart and continued to rev. The engine roared with power but then again this was the first time I started the Savage in the house. Of course it would sound powerfull indoors. I took it that the fact that the engine was running that it was a good sign. I soon stopped the engine before the smoke in the room got too thick. I started the truck again and carried it out the door. It was about 25 degrees F outside. I tried giving some throttle. I think a clutch is slipping. I won't get a chance to really try out the modified engine untill it gets warm enough to make a trip to the school yard.
I kind of got caught up in finishing the project and failed to stop and to take pictures of the modded parts before I closed up the engine.
I can say that the engine went back together easyer than I expected.
As far as cutting the shaft; I purchased a bunch of different stones for the dremel but ended up using a cut off wheel for most of the grinding.
Hopefully it will warm up soon so I can try this out for real.
(well starting the truck up on a warm day at the park would have been better)The bugger cranked over on the second yank of the pullstart and continued to rev. The engine roared with power but then again this was the first time I started the Savage in the house. Of course it would sound powerfull indoors. I took it that the fact that the engine was running that it was a good sign. I soon stopped the engine before the smoke in the room got too thick. I started the truck again and carried it out the door. It was about 25 degrees F outside. I tried giving some throttle. I think a clutch is slipping. I won't get a chance to really try out the modified engine untill it gets warm enough to make a trip to the school yard.
I kind of got caught up in finishing the project and failed to stop and to take pictures of the modded parts before I closed up the engine.
I can say that the engine went back together easyer than I expected.
As far as cutting the shaft; I purchased a bunch of different stones for the dremel but ended up using a cut off wheel for most of the grinding.
Hopefully it will warm up soon so I can try this out for real.
digger
Hardcore RCTalk User
Let us know how it works out. I'm wanting to try it, but as it says on the bottom of the first page: "If you can't afford to junk your engine, stop now."
Savage is the only thing I have running right now. :depress:
Did try porting on my TQ. Helped considerably. 8 or 10 tanks worth. Now it runs good 2 or 3 minutes, then it doesn't rev up. Wasn't much to start with. Now it's sitting in a pile in the basement floor.
Savage is the only thing I have running right now. :depress:
Did try porting on my TQ. Helped considerably. 8 or 10 tanks worth. Now it runs good 2 or 3 minutes, then it doesn't rev up. Wasn't much to start with. Now it's sitting in a pile in the basement floor.
markallen
RCTalk Addict
If he followed RCCA it should run like a champ.Mine sure does..FYI I am doing them for other peeps as well just pm me..
chilipepper
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I just ported mine yesterday and couldn't be absolutely happier with the increase in power. I now see the shortcomings on the clutch. What are you guys running for clutches to get that power to the ground?
Doesn't look like RCCA does any balancing of the crank shaft. They didn't really bore out the center of the crank much either they just smoothed it (which is kind of funny in it self). Also, they tell you that you need to change the deck height (remove shims), but they don't tell you what % nitro to run with that setting. % nitro and deck height go hand in hand.
I have no doubt that the mod makes it go faster, but more should have been done. :shrug:
I have no doubt that the mod makes it go faster, but more should have been done. :shrug:
markallen
RCTalk Addict
chilipepper said:
I'm running Ofna aluminum clutch shoes with pretty good success..
Digital Liquid
RCTalk Addict
I like the OFNA aluminum shoes too. They are light weight and they also come with 2 sets of springs to really dial in your clutch shoes.
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXHWJ3&P=
Another good thing to compliment the springs is to throw on a vented clutch bell. It makes for a pretty sweet combination.
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXHWJ3&P=
Another good thing to compliment the springs is to throw on a vented clutch bell. It makes for a pretty sweet combination.
Hey DL How often do you have to remove the burrs that come as aresult to using the aluminum shoes? I am going to go with two different clutch set up. The Werks Power clutch and the Fioroni Turbo sliding clutch.
