• Welcome to RCTalk! 🚀

    Join the #1 RC community where hobbyists connect, share, and get expert advice on RC cars, trucks, boats, drones, and more!

    • ✓ Friendly & passionate RC enthusiasts
    • ✓ RC tips & troubleshooting
    • ✓ Buy, sell & trade RC gear
    • ✓ Share builds & upgrades

Savage Help - Starts....Runs.....DIES!!!!

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
T

tomoracle290

RCTalk Basher
Messages
68
Reaction score
0
Points
0
RC Driving Style
Hi all.

Well firstly I have a HPI Savage 21 and I am unable to get the thing to run for longer than 6 seconds.

Note: the engine has been run in and then had about another 12 tanks through it after the run in.

Ok well, the truck starts about 2nd pull; it then revs like mad so much it even changes up a gear and then dies (sounds like some one is pinching the fuel line when it dies).

I have checked the following:

No cracks in the casings of the engine (have had that on another engine)
No bubbles in the fuel going into the carburettor
Good Glow Plug
Good Fuel
All carburettor settings are at factory or close to the factory settings

I have not been using the truck for about the last 8 month and before I stopped using it I had fit a new ribbed HPI pipe and a two stage HPI filter but I can't remember if I had run it after the fitment of these parts.

Thanks for you time any ideas?:bow: :surrender

Tom

Also I am planning on putting the standard exhaust and filter on (as soon as I find them:lick: )
 
How do you determine that a plug is good? A fouled plug can still glow but fail in use.
 
1. Is your radio on? Yes the radio was on
2. What is the throttle control set at? The throttle was set slightly more than the idle (and I had tried different throttle settings, but it didn’t affect it much.
3. How do you determine that a plug is good? Well it did glow very bright and I have tried 3 different plugs and no change in the running

Thanks, Tom
 
Is your idle set properly? You should have a 1mm openingeven when brakes are applied.

Try starting it and letting it warm up with the ignitor on for 30 sec Give it short bursts of gas to clear up any unspent gas.
 
Yeh :yes: 1mm opening is there.

And the second sugestion would be good, but i can't get it to run more than 6 seconds forget about 30 seconds

Thanks, Tom
 
tomoracle290 said:
Yeh :yes: 1mm opening is there.

And the second sugestion would be good, but i can't get it to run more than 6 seconds forget about 30 seconds

Thanks, Tom
Click to expand...

You're saying with the ignitor still on it dies?
 
You're saying with the ignitor still on it dies? YEP it does, but the ignitor was starting to die
 
Last edited:
Are you using NEW plugs? what kind? yes they are new and they are McCoy's

Have you checked your clutch assembly? yes i have taken most things apart to check and clean nothing bad found.

Do you know how your needles are set now? well i have two carbs, one is set at the running in (facatory) settings and the other is set the same but the HSN and LSN are about 1/2 a turn less. They both have the same effect on the engine.



Thanks, Tom
 
Last edited:
tomoracle290 said:
Are you using NEW plugs? what kind? yes they are new and they are McCoy's

Have you checked your clutch assembly? yes i have taken most things apart to check and clean nothing bad found.

Do you know how your needles are set now? well i have two carbs, one is set at the running in (facatory) settings and the other is set the same but the HSN and LSN are about 1/2 a turn less. They both have the same effect on the engine.

:bow:

Thanks, Tom
Click to expand...

What type of Mccoys?
 
mccg3159.jpg


MC-59's, thats what the local RC Shop said for a Savage 21
 
Last edited:
That is a great choice. I am now thinking you are running a tad fat on the HSN. Can you tell me what that is set to? I mean How many turns out?
 
I tell ya, it still sounds like it's got an air leak somewhere. Have you sealed the back plate and carb with RTV sealant? One other area to check may be the "O" rings in the needles. I chased a similar condition in a HPI 4.6 and it turned out to be the "O" ring gasket on the HSN was torn.

Hopefully this gives you a few more avenues to investigate before drop-kicking it through a window!
 
yea this is beyond me now. sorry. i'll check back tho to see if any of these other geniuses have figured out what is up.
 
You said it sat for 8 months since the last time you ran it? You may have gummed up the carb with fuel residue or a fuel line. This would make it run extremely lean.

I'd suggest takeing the engine apart and giving it a thorough cleaning. Also, pull the carb off and take it completely apart. Pay special attention to the needles and their seats. Use a q-tip and some DA and really get everything clean. It might be best to take it all apart and let it soak in alcohol for a few hours, then work on cleaning out the inside small parts of the carb.

Just make sure to take any rubber/silicone o-rings off any of the parts before letting them sit in the DA and soak. DA and 1:1 carb cleaner ruins rubber/silicone.

It just sounds like you have a clogged or partially clogged needle.
 
The HSN is set to just below 3 turns out from the bottom.

What do you mean by the back plate, the place that the pull start mechanism blots on to the engine? If so no I have not.

Also when you said about the O ring seal been torn on one of the carburettors I did have this problem but I changed that so that is ok.

Thanks ,Tom
 
Last edited:
but what do you mean by the back plate, the place that the pull start mechanism blots on to the engine? If so no I have not.
Click to expand...

Yes. Take the pullstart off (but be careful not to let the coiled spring jump out). You should see the one-way bearing and the starter shaft. Take the OWB out, then remove the four small screws holding the back plate to the block off. Pull the plate off (but watch for a very tiny spring and a small pin on the crank shaft, you'll need these).

Clean the edge of the block off with DA, let it dry, add a bead of RTV then reverse the process. Now you've sealed the back plate!

I'd suggest doing this in conjunction with what Olds suggests as well. Do all of this and I'm confident she'll purr like a kitten again!
 
olds97_lss said:
You said it sat for 8 months since the last time you ran it? You may have gummed up the carb with fuel residue or a fuel line. This would make it run extremely lean.

I'd suggest takeing the engine apart and giving it a thorough cleaning. Also, pull the carb off and take it completely apart. Pay special attention to the needles and their seats. Use a q-tip and some DA and really get everything clean. It might be best to take it all apart and let it soak in alcohol for a few hours, then work on cleaning out the inside small parts of the carb.

Just make sure to take any rubber/silicone o-rings off any of the parts before letting them sit in the DA and soak. DA and 1:1 carb cleaner ruins rubber/silicone.

It just sounds like you have a clogged or partially clogged needle.
Click to expand...

I have alreadly taken apart the engine and cleaned that, and i had to clean out the fuel tank as that had some nitro in it that had gone off, but i forgot to clean out the carb, so i will try that tommorrow and tell you what happens.

Thanks, Tom

Monkey Wrench said:
Yes. Take the pullstart off (but be careful not to let the coiled spring jump out). You should see the one-way bearing and the starter shaft. Take the OWB out, then remove the four small screws holding the back plate to the block off. Pull the plate off (but watch for a very tiny spring and a small pin on the crank shaft, you'll need these).

Clean the edge of the block off with DA, let it dry, add a bead of RTV then reverse the process. Now you've sealed the back plate!

I'd suggest doing this in conjunction with what Olds suggests as well. Do all of this and I'm confident she'll purr like a kitten again!
Click to expand...

Ok thanks for the info, i will also try this, i must say i am shocked that you need to seal the back plate, should this not be done by HPI :\

Thanks again, Tom

Will report back once i have done all this.
 
No engine manufacturer actually "seals" the engine, but there probably is a gasket in there. It isn't a real requirement, per se, but it does help and rules out any air leaks going forward. It's more insurance than anything.
 

RC Builds

Back
Top