?'s on new k3 build.

[hirevn]

o.k. ,I've started the build on my new k3 and I've built the 3 diffs. on page 2 it tells you to use the 4 shims (2thin and 2 thick) to adjust backlash but nothing on how much backlash to look for.anyone know what to look for?

also sense I'm not trying to finish the build overnight is there anything i should upgrade while I'm building or all the kit parts fine?

the last thing is if anyone knows of a link on a setup sheet for the k3 to get a good inital setup would be greatly appreciated.

thanks again,phil.

 

[untchbl]

phil, you'll probably want to get some nice shock tower braces.

I'm using the racers edge stuff.

 

[madnking]

kyosho.com has a blank and a filled out set up sheet from the worlds a couple of years ago. This is a good start. As for the shims I think they are for any slop in the external gear of the diff.

 

[Toycar]

Shim the diff so there is no play between the 13t and 46t bevel gears and it still spins freely wthout drag. It will loosen up as you break it in. Depending on the power of the engine you run it may want to keep a close eye on the lash/play

Link: https://www.rcnitrotalk.com/forum/showthread.php?t=20790

Link: https://www.rcnitrotalk.com/forum/showthread.php?t=20828

Since i've run mine for 6 months the things I would change initially would be the screws as in the link, because of wear and then lots of play I'd put in kingheadz.com hing pin braces and suspension holders, with the set screws and torque braces. The front rear lower suspension hoder is constantly loosening (they drilled 2 holes through the chassis and front lower suspension carrier to prevent this on the 777) so I'm going to drill 2 countersunk hole for 3mm screws. Get dish wheels. I use the long 4mm hinge pins from an Associated MGT in the rear that threads into the rear plastic toe-in plate to reduce play and stop wear when the suspension pin rotates with suspension action.

 

[hirevn]

thanks guys,your help is much apperciated.

phil.

 

[hirevn]

phil, you'll probably want to get some nice shock tower braces.

I'm using the racers edge stuff.

any links to the racers edge parts?I've found the kingheadz stuff but been searching and havent found this stuff yet. :shrug:

 

[hirevn]

woohoo,on page 4 of the build now.this has been a fun kit so far,it takes much longer to find the right hardware than to build the steps but quality and parts fit been great.

just alittle useless bit of info, :smoke:

 

[Booyah]

woohoo,on page 4 of the build now.this has been a fun kit so far,it takes much longer to find the right hardware than to build the steps but quality and parts fit been great.

just alittle useless bit of info, :smoke:

Not bashing your K3, but the Xray is cake to build cause in the instuctions you start out with a bag for this.....bag for that and so on. You open that bag and all your parts are there, when you are done--no parts left, move on to bag #2

 

[hirevn]

Not bashing your K3, but the Xray is cake to build cause in the instuctions you start out with a bag for this.....bag for that and so on. You open that bag and all your parts are there, when you are done--no parts left, move on to bag #2

thats how the build on my rc10gts were,nice and smooth with all parts in the bag tell empty.I'm actually enjoying the challange to build this buggy,I'm a snowmachine/atv/marine tech by day so kinda skilled that way but these little dudes are challenging!!! :hammer:

 

[Booyah]

thats how the build on my rc10gts were,nice and smooth with all parts in the bag tell empty.I'm actually enjoying the challange to build this buggy,I'm a snowmachine/atv/marine tech by day so kinda skilled that way but these little dudes are challenging!!! :hammer:

Hmmm, hook a fellow RCer up with a Sled :idea:
Where you work at?

 

[hirevn]

Hmmm, hook a fellow RCer up with a Sled :idea:
Where you work at?

AMDS,largest dealer in north america.sometimes it reminds me of a assembly line with all the sleds going out the door.

 

[hirevn]

o.k., i just installed hub carriers and the manual shows using the 22 degree parts along with the 2.5 rear susp holder.is this a good starting point or should i try something diffrent? this will be my first buggy and this spring will be first time racing 1/8 scale so looking for some advice on a good startin point to learn on.
also the rear chassis brace with the plastic ends screws to the rearend and snaps in place at the plate,the ball it snaps too is threaded but the manual shows no screw holding it from poping off? is this correct or is it further on in the manual or is it designed to pop off (no attaching screw)?
any help from experinced kanai owners is much appreciated.

thanks,phil. :smoke:

 

[CorradoPsi]

22* and 2.5* sounds like a good start. as you get better at driving and want the steering to react faster you can try the 20* caster block up front. and experiment with either 1* or 3* of rear toe depending on your track and driving style. those are only 2 of many adjustments you can make to alter your handling. but just go with what the stock setup is for now, and once you get a chance to drive it, you will be able to determine what needs changed and what doesn't.

 

[hirevn]

thanks corradopsi,ill just go with the manual and go from there.my next question is on radio gear,i have a jr2 (am) that i was thinking of using and just getting the best servos for it i can.what are the drawbacks of using this instead of upgrading to a higher end fm radio?i know most people will say why use a lowend radio with a highend buggy but id like know if the am will be o.k. for racing with good servos or do i have to upgrade to a better fm unit?

 

[CorradoPsi]

your am unit will be more glitch prone than a fm radio. you can use it for now i would say, but be absolutely sure to use a failsafe since your taking an extra risk.

 

[husky24tn]

i use the jr xr2i on my mbx 4 truggy and my hper 7 and its fine...but like corrado said...it is more "prone" to glitch...although mine hasn't yet....fingers crossed knocking on wood.....

but the fm side is much better and lots less frequency hassels....especially if you get a synthesized radio....

 

[hirevn]

thanks guys,i may just get a better radio.i just hate having a bunch of useless radios around.i may just throw out the cheapy jag that came with my sons truck and give him the jr and upgrade to a fm syn unit.

 

[mikeburgin]

i use the lynx 3d fm by hitec,
is a few years old now but is a reliable radio, with all the crap and bling that you need, like timers, dual rates, exp etc, not sure if they still make them but, could be a cheap fm choice for anyone looking for a good fm radiio.

Corrado
Are you guys allowed to use ABS braking in the states for racing, apperently its banned from all compition world wide????? i Just been told were not allowd to use it here by our club management, not that i do anyway cause i like brakes

 

[hirevn]

any servo/radio suggestions?i only want to spend bout 400.00 for radio and servos and this is the area i know least about.any help from you guys is appreciated.

 

[CorradoPsi]

Corrado
Are you guys allowed to use ABS braking in the states for racing, apperently its banned from all compition world wide????? i Just been told were not allowd to use it here by our club management, not that i do anyway cause i like brakes

this is news to me. I've never been told to not use it. depending on the traction available ill turn it on if its slippery. it helps keep the rear end in check at the end of the main straight. i only do club racing though, wonder if the big guys over here use it?