Rustler R1E Project

[Chubaka]

I can only imagine how light that front is.

As said looks great. I love how simple it is. What body is that? The lid skids look like horns.

 

[ahr43]

Lookin great. Love that spoiler!

Thanks, Kevin. Wanted a spoiler with less rear down force anyway. The last series of crashes came along at just the right time to force the issue. CF comes in at less than half the height of the former Lexan. Cheers. 'AC'

I can only imagine how light that front is.

As said looks great. I love how simple it is. What body is that? The lid skids look like horns.

Hey Chu. Yeah, added 100gm (3.5oz) ballast up front to keep 'er down. Yet to check that out.

Body is Traxxas Rustler VXL (2nd gen). Fuzzy [sorry] image below shows the Gen 1 Rustler body on the left, VXL on the right. Big difference in size.

TRX VXL (clear)

Ha. Would have liked the RPM lid skids, but at 3", they were too long. Settled for the P-L. Yeah, they're a bit strange. Hopefully, they'll provide protection as well as the RPMs. Cheers. 'AC'

 

[Chubaka]

Thanks, Kevin. Wanted a spoiler with less rear down force anyway. The last series of crashes came along at just the right time to force the issue. CF comes in at less than half the height of the former Lexan. Cheers. 'AC'

Hey Chu. Yeah, added 100gm (3.5oz) ballast up front to keep 'er down. Yet to check that out.

Body is Traxxas Rustler VXL (2nd gen). Fuzzy [sorry] image below shows the Gen 1 Rustler body on the left, VXL on the right. Big difference in size.

TRX VXL (clear)

Ha. Would have liked the RPM lid skids, but at 3", they were too long. Settled for the P-L. Yeah, they're a bit strange. Hopefully, they'll provide protection as well as the RPMs. Cheers. 'AC'

Much appreciated. I'm trying to find an older style stadium body for my nitro sport- spreaking of, it has the same if not similar ford stadium body.

 

[ahr43]

Chu, check this out. It's on my wish list for an upgrade body when the time is right. Easy-squeezy paint job. Fill in the clear and add a back coat. One rattle can of purple (for me) and one of backing white keeps paint costs low. Presto. 'AC'

VXL Prographix

 

[ahr43]

Regarding post #59 (above). Had to go back and correct the Traxxas/Method wheel I had mis-identified. It's a Method '105' license edition.

Anyway, love it when a company has a sense of humor. Although anymore it is difficult to separate fact from fiction technology is moving so fast. See their April1, 2021 April Fool link (below). Had me going for a while until I did some research on the material Adamantium. Stumped me it did. Turns out its a Marvel Comics fictional invention used, among other things, X-Men's Wolverine skeletal structure. Really had me going. Hey, who knows? Maybe it'll happen first in RC. Anyway, makes a great backstory for the rear wheels on the R1E. Makes 'em even more special. Enjoy the read below. By the way, Method website has some awesome 1:1 builds. Cheers, Mates. 'AC'

Method CF beadlock wheel

 

[ahr43]

Speed is back to where it was with the 3300Kv 3652 motor. 10.5T 540 and 80A ESC working out well. 3.5oz steel bar front weight and front air dam (see body on image) does the deed in keeping the front down. Comfortable running 80kph (49.8mph). Gearing 22/46 32P. Still waiting for that 23T RRP pinion to come off back order. TRX bead locks mounting Anaconda tires surprised me by staying put. Only securing the tire with every other bead lock screw. Cutting down on rotating weight a bit.

 

[ahr43]

What do you think, guys? Leaning forward in the saddle for future mods.

Like to get the larger diam. RR tires back again. Moved the Bandit Anaconda's to the FR and fit up my P-L Street Fighters to the RR.

Liked the diam. my P-L Prime slicks gave the car previously, but with two drawbacks. Prefer a treaded tire for running a non-prep surface. That and the Primes ballooned a bit more than I liked-adding to instability at speed.

Considering this as a go-to. Staying with 2s HV LiPo and a 10.5 4000Kv FT as power unit for now. Thanks for looking in. Cheers. 'AC'

 

[ahr43]

Project update. Tail gate pit image from yesterday's speed session. Pro-Line Low Profile Street Fighter wheel and tire set really made a stable platform of the R1E. Confident now to begin building in speed.

Started yesterday's session with a 20/46 combo for a 2.30 gear ration. Swapped to a 22/46 for a 2.09 mid-session. Only picked up ~1mph gearing up. Take away from that is either the 10.5/4000Kv HW has reached its torque delivery limit or it does not have enough run out to achieve a higher top speed. 132ft course length comes up fast on a speed run. Placing an order for a 21tooth 32pitch pinion. Perhaps that is the sweet spot that will push the truck over the 80kph (50mph) threshold.

Also looking to motor up with a goal of gaining entrance into the 100kph Club. Roughly 60mph. Here's the motor I'm looking at. HW 8.5T 3650 G2 / 4560Kv. Probably the upper limit on Kv for this 2S application? Also probably pushing the limit on what the RPM tranny case can handle. Any of you guys have experience with this motor?

Thanks for looking in. Cheers. 'AC'

 

[Greywolf74]

Project update. Tail gate pit image from yesterday's speed session. Pro-Line Low Profile Street Fighter wheel and tire set really made a stable platform of the R1E. Confident now to begin building in speed.

Started yesterday's session with a 20/46 combo for a 2.30 gear ration. Swapped to a 22/46 for a 2.09 mid-session. Only picked up ~1mph gearing up. Take away from that is either the 10.5/4000Kv HW has reached its torque delivery limit or it does not have enough run out to achieve a higher top speed. 132ft course length comes up fast on a speed run. Placing an order for a 21tooth 32pitch pinion. Perhaps that is the sweet spot that will push the truck over the 80kph (50mph) threshold.

Also looking to motor up with a goal of gaining entrance into the 100kph Club. Roughly 60mph. Here's the motor I'm looking at. HW 8.5T 3650 G2 / 4560Kv. Probably the upper limit on Kv for this 2S application? Also probably pushing the limit on what the RPM tranny case can handle. Any of you guys have experience with this motor?

Thanks for looking in. Cheers. 'AC'

View attachment 153427

Dont have experience with that motor in particular but I would suspect that a 4560kV is going to get real hot, real fast pushing taller gear ratios.

What is your overall goal? Are you doing 132ft speed runs or just speed runs in general?

 

[ahr43]

Hey Greywolf, thanks for the ping. Yeah, I'm in Kv is King mode right now.

22/46 for 2.09 thinking is too tall for the HW 10.5T. Pushing a lot of wind with the ST package. Have a 21T on order-hoping the sweet spot for this app is a 2.19. Regarding the 4560, gotcha on the heat. Be a quick run so hoping to get away with it. Thinking a drop in gearing for back to a 20/46 for 2.30. Hopefully that will compromise the tall gearing and minimize heat buildup. Relying on 4560Kv rpm with 2S 8.6V LiPo HV to carry the day.

Regarding overall goal. 132ft two-way runs on 2S. Rubber tires. No prep. Nice to achieve goal is the 100kph Club (~60mph). That seems doable. 132ft length works for the run + 132ft shutdown distance available to the truck and also stays within the radio range envelope. Sacrificing any peak speed runs at unconfined track length is something I'm willing to settle for.

Cheers and thanks for looking in guys. 'AC'

 

[Greywolf74]

Hey Greywolf, thanks for the ping. Yeah, I'm in Kv is King mode right now.

22/46 for 2.09 thinking is too tall for the HW 10.5T. Pushing a lot of wind with the ST package. Have a 21T on order-hoping the sweet spot for this app is a 2.19. Regarding the 4560, gotcha on the heat. Be a quick run so hoping to get away with it. Thinking a drop in gearing for back to a 20/46 for 2.30. Hopefully that will compromise the tall gearing and minimize heat buildup. Relying on 4560Kv rpm with 2S 8.6V LiPo HV to carry the day.

Regarding overall goal. 132ft two-way runs on 2S. Rubber tires. No prep. Nice to achieve goal is the 100kph Club (~60mph). That seems doable. 132ft length works for the run + 132ft shutdown distance available to the truck and also stays within the radio range envelope. Sacrificing any peak speed runs at unconfined track length is something I'm willing to settle for.

Cheers and thanks for looking in guys. 'AC'

It'll be interesting to see the results. Doing 132ft runs probably wont be as hard on the motor as I was originally thinking because I'm used to thinking of things in just flat out wide open speed runs as opposed to no prep style runs. Have you given any thought to trying to find a more aerodynamic body for it?

 

[ahr43]

O.k., so reading your reply, that bare bones 4560 is survivable in a quick run environment? Not holding you it, of course. Always good seeking additional info on an unfamiliar motor. Think I'll give it a try. It's HW so should be plug-and-play with no drama interface.

Have the JConcepts Illuzion Hi-Speed body on my Rustler basher. Once speed peaks on this combo, will fit that body and see if it picks up some kph. After last Saturdays run, narrowed the front track on the Street Fighter/Raid Wheel by going from the wide 12mm adapter to the narrow. It's a 2.8in wheel, so it now shrouds some of the suspension arms hanging out in the wind. Chasing those elusive 1/2kph already. Anything I can get will help.

Front air dam shows in this image too. As you can see, she's got a lot of frontal area. Mostly outside the body-that's where the drag is. Hopefully, torque is not sacrificed going to this 4560. Need a lot of grunt to push this frontal.

Appreciate the feedback and you guys looking in from time-to-time. Cheers. 'AC'

 

[Greywolf74]

O.k., so reading your reply, that bare bones 4560 is survivable in a quick run environment? Not holding you it, of course. Always good seeking additional info on an unfamiliar motor. Think I'll give it a try. It's HW so should be plug-and-play with no drama interface.

Have the JConcepts Illuzion Hi-Speed body on my Rustler basher. Once speed peaks on this combo, will fit that body and see if it picks up some kph. After last Saturdays run, narrowed the front track on the Street Fighter/Raid Wheel by going from the wide 12mm adapter to the narrow. It's a 2.8in wheel, so it now shrouds some of the suspension arms hanging out in the wind. Chasing those elusive 1/2kph already. Anything I can get will help.

Front air dam shows in this image too. As you can see, she's got a lot of frontal area. Mostly outside the body-that's where the drag is. Hopefully, torque is not sacrificed going to this 4560. Need a lot of grunt to push this frontal.

Appreciate the feedback and you guys looking in from time-to-time. Cheers. 'AC'

View attachment 153601

My best guess is that as long as you dont start experiencing cogging then it should be fine for 132ft speed runs but you may find that you only get a few runs before you have to let her cool down for 10 minutes or so and then its liable to heat right back up in just a couple/few more runs.

I know from experience that the Castle 3800kV had that issue only I was running the 5mm drive shaft version and running a very tall gear ratio in Mod1 gearing. I dont recall the exact ratio but it was less than 2:1 and was probably less than 1.5:1 so your mileage my vary. I may have been running 3S too I dont remember for sure. I do remember my best speed with that set up was 77MPH and 70+ is where it wants to start coming up off of the ground lol. Of course i wasn't doing 132ft runs though. Your gearing isnt nearly as tall and you're running on 2S also, so thats in your favor. That kV is pretty high for your gearing though. Id guess it will be ok with the first paragraph being the worst case scenario. That is just an educated guess though obviously

 

[95PGTTech]

Project update. Tail gate pit image from yesterday's speed session. Pro-Line Low Profile Street Fighter wheel and tire set really made a stable platform of the R1E. Confident now to begin building in speed.

Started yesterday's session with a 20/46 combo for a 2.30 gear ration. Swapped to a 22/46 for a 2.09 mid-session. Only picked up ~1mph gearing up. Take away from that is either the 10.5/4000Kv HW has reached its torque delivery limit or it does not have enough run out to achieve a higher top speed. 132ft course length comes up fast on a speed run. Placing an order for a 21tooth 32pitch pinion. Perhaps that is the sweet spot that will push the truck over the 80kph (50mph) threshold.

Also looking to motor up with a goal of gaining entrance into the 100kph Club. Roughly 60mph. Here's the motor I'm looking at. HW 8.5T 3650 G2 / 4560Kv. Probably the upper limit on Kv for this 2S application? Also probably pushing the limit on what the RPM tranny case can handle. Any of you guys have experience with this motor?

Thanks for looking in. Cheers. 'AC'

View attachment 153427

Previously I have always picked an ESC a battery then ran the highest kV motor the ESC would allow on that voltage. Off the top of my head example HW Max10SCT 3s 100c 4000kV. My reasoning more kv more rpm more speed (I thought). I was almost always fighting heat issues. Recently I’ve been running lower kv stuff and just gearing up. I also like to run really long cans, like in the 36 series I have a 3674 in 2650kv and 2250kv. They make dramatically more power with less heat than 3650, 3652, and 3660s I’ve run previously.

Love the build, keep up the good work

 

[ahr43]

Niner, thanks for checking in and leaving your thoughts. Good point on ESC selection. It is too easy to focus on the motor part of the power unit at the expense of the ESC, battery and associated wiring components. All must function as a unit.

Looking now at the Ruddog sensored 8.5T. All aluminum can coming in at 4400Kv / 350W / 84A. Competitive price point too. Regards. 'AC'

 

[ahr43]

Saturday's post brought a pair of TRX aluminum steering blocks and the RPM 21T x 32P pinion. They got the install today. Pretty much straight forward on both upgrades. Stayed with the ProTek shielded 'speed' bearings instead of the TRX furnished sealed bearings. Looking to reduce rolling resistance as much as possible.

Did a spin test on the bench of after the upgrade. A.O.K. on the steering block install but did discover a severely out-of-balance wheel/tire assembly. Decided to bite the bullet and check balance of all four. Something not done since the RC drag racing days way back when. Liking these 2.8in P-L Raid wheels for the room they give for a balance weight. There are other issues with them regarding speed running. But that's another post. Usually, wheel balancing is an all-day sucker. This time it went fairly quickly. Another nice thing about 2WD, dynamic spin balancing the wheel/tire assembly is easy to do off the front stub axle.

Thinking the CF chassis plate is too thin. G-10 fibreglass for the next plate, and thicker. The out-of-balance wheel induced a lot of torsion twist at the front. Probably because it narrows down there so much. Spin test both front wheels after balance much better. Torsion twist cycle gone but now know it lurks there as a possible issue.

Changed up the two-step polishing process on the steel pinion this time. Added an additional step of buffing with Brasso. Point of interest on the RPM pinions. Have encountered two grub screw sizes. Early pinions are 1/16in; later 1.5mm. Not sure when they made the cut over. Have a lot of RPM 32P pinions from the RC drag racing days '05-'11. Anyway, for what it's worth. If one driver doesn't fit right-try the other.

Whew. Long post. Thanks for hanging in there. Cheers, mates. 'AC'

 

[Greywolf74]

All I have is 2 thoughts.

1) Is that some sort of weight taped under the tape that you used to balance the tires? If so what is it? I'm curious how that compares to the method I use which is to stick modelling clay inside the rim. Interesting....

2) If you really want to reduce rolling resistance as much as possible look in to ceramic wheel bearings.

 

[ahr43]

Hey GreyWolf. Thanks for the vid and the comments.

Imaged is a 2g steel nut used under the tape for the Lft FR and a 0.5g aircraft steel FW for the Rt FR. Sourced my fasteners stash and came up with 2g, 1g, and 0.5g weights. Yeah, 3M PET (Plastic Electrical Tape) secures them in place after a wash of denatured alcohol to clean the inner part of the wheel for max adhesion. Figure centrifugal force will hold the weight in place at speed. Tape does the deed at rest. Also gives me a place to record positioning and weight.

Regarding ceramics. Yeah. Big bucks. Saving that option as last resort when it comes down to that run for the last kph/mph possible. For what it's worth, in the vid the wheel assembly on the right with ceramics needs balancing out. But it's not all that bad and will certainly suffice for normal running.

Cheers. 'AC'

 

[Greywolf74]

Also gives me a place to record positioning and weight.

This is one advantage over using modeling clay but I feel like modeling clay allows you to dial in the weight more precisely? Not trying to convince you of anything. Just thinking out loud so to speak.

Regarding ceramics. Yeah. Big bucks. Saving that option as last resort when it comes down to that run for the last kph/mph possible.

Yeah they aint cheap!

For what it's worth, in the vid the wheel assembly on the right with ceramics needs balancing out. But it's not all that bad and will certainly suffice for normal running.

Cheers. 'AC'

Not my kits but I thought the same thing when I was watching it lol

 

[ahr43]

Agree. Modeling clay does offer the advantage of better placement of a weight. I'm close with my tape method now. Figure to refine it better as time goes on. Baby steps, as it were. Do have to revisit the Avid bearing lube, though. Used Dave's stuff exclusively for RC drag racing. May be a better go-to than the Rem-Oil Teflon I'm using now.

In the image, the nut to the right with the two hash marks on the tape roll is the 2g wt. 'AC'