Running Very H.O.T.

[2revo1maxx]

A big block engine should never exceed 280°, period. If it does then something's not right. It's either too lean, being worked too hard, or there's too much oil in the fuel. I don't care if it's 110° outside and humid, it should never run that hot.
SSX, you have a major air leak at the carb, I'm sure of it.

 

[ChasCS]

Top Down

yeah i've got my venom temp,fail safe set at 300 degs.seems like my revo runs best on performace tune @ bout 270-280 but i let mine cool too bout 200 degs. in between tanks.

Hi,
I'm surprised by these high temps.
Obviously though as well, totally unfamiliar with these RC models.
When I run my car, while the shell is left off, she runs at a cool 220*F all day long, 20% Nitro,
while in Edmonton Hinterland. "In The Summer Time"!!
With the Charger R\T shell, closer to 245*F~250*F.
My windshield is fully intact, but the body is certainly high enough up to allow some airflow, perhaps not quite enough.
I may need to lean out some yet too, with only 7 full tanks of fuel, less than one full gallon, through the 4.6 Big Block engine.

Chas

 

[Savage SSX]

I did the leak test and found that there was bubbles coming out of the carb to engine seal. so I took the carb off and found the seal was torn. I went down to my hobby shop and replaced the seal and got new lines. I zip-tied them on and I started it, set it up the way I wanted and now the temps are holding steady between 220 and 230.
I am not sure which fix did the trick or if it was a combination of both but Thanks everyone for your help, I really appreciate it. You saved the motor and saved me from a $250 some odd dollar fix.

 

[lesclaypool]

Good news man!

 

[2revo1maxx]

You had a major air leak at the carb. That is the only thing that can cause fuel spitting out the pipe and high temps with no fuel leaking out of the motor.
Nice job, glad ya got it fixed.

 

[Grave]

When I took it apart the bearings looked ok but there cheap enough I can just replace them anyways if it might help, after a few hours of run time a couple times a week there was no fuel leaking down the side of the block so it would seem that at least fuel is not leaking out. Yes H.O.T. does just mean hot..... I have never seen temps this high on any of my motors and yes I use the same temp gun for them all so the gun itself is not out of the ball park.

As I said in my original comments the current tune is factory stock on all needles "the LSN included" and I am running 20% Blue Thunder fuel.

As for an air leak at the carb that is entirely possible is there any particular way to test for air leakage "the block, carb, and surrounding areas are dry when I don't have it running so rich it barely runs".

As for the fuel boiling, that is possible or air could just be getting in. I am not sure but within about 45 seconds or so there is little or no fuel in the line from the tank to the motor.

SSX.... I read your post's & I am sitting hear thinking your problem is not with the Tuneing.. That's a BIG motor you got in that RIG... I would say your engine isent getting a good Outside AIR COOLING & surprized no one said any thing befor........ TAKE YOUR BODY OFF & CUT A NICE ROUND HOLE INTO THE WINDSHILD " HOLE SAW'S WORK THE BEST " I'D SAY @ LEAST THE WIDTH OF THE WINDSHILD & MAKE A HOLE IN THE BACK TOWARD THE REAR OF YOUR ENGINE FOR THE HEAT TO ESCAPE...... I'D BE WILLING TO BET ONCE YOU MAKE A FEW HOLES INTO YOUR BODY YOUR TEMP'S WILL COME DOWN BIG TIME I DID THIS TO 2 OF MY NITRO'S BODYS NO OVER HEATING @ ALL....... TRY IT YOU'LL SEE

 

[2revo1maxx]

Problem solved. Drilling holes in bodies is way over rated.

 

[lesclaypool]

I agree. I've tried cutting holes in the body on most all my rigs, and the difference is very minor. I've actually regretted it sometimes because when bashing and crashing more crap gets in the truck, and you sometimes lose structural rigidity of the body. Clearly the problem was the carb o-ring.

 

[ChasCS]

Back to normal degrees

I did the leak test and found that there was bubbles coming out of the carb to engine seal. so I took the carb off and found the seal was torn. I went down to my hobby shop and replaced the seal and got new lines. I zip-tied them on and I started it, set it up the way I wanted and now the temps are holding steady between 220 and 230.
I am not sure which fix did the trick or if it was a combination of both but Thanks everyone for your help, I really appreciate it. You saved the motor and saved me from a $250 some odd dollar fix.

Hi,
Ah, 220-230 hey? Exactly...

Please say no more! Huge Smile

Chas

 

[Grave]

I agree. I've tried cutting holes in the body on most all my rigs, and the difference is very minor. I've actually regretted it sometimes because when bashing and crashing more crap gets in the truck, and you sometimes lose structural rigidity of the body. Clearly the problem was the carb o-ring.

I dissagree I have holes into all 3 of my Nitro rig's " Not Gaping hole's " I use a hole saw to make perfect round hole's.. My rig's run's Cool every time @ norm temp's & I run 20% nitro as well & I dont get alot of dirt inside my bodies & my body's hold up fine bashing.... But than again I dont bash my Rig's hard but I do bash em & if my bodys do get cracked or badly damaged I replace the body with another I have non broken bodys in my stock just ready to go on my rig's... My Friend likes to run into me alot he seems to have a problem keeping a decent distance from me.. The other day he jumped a ramp & managed to clear a another set of jumps we had setup & he fliped his Rig 3 times right into my rig...

 

[lesclaypool]

Try running 30%, tune richer, make the same if not more power, run cooler. No need for hacking bodies.