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roto vs pull ?

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smittyzz

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who uses what?
What do you prefer?
What works better when?

just picked one up for 10.75 used with a battery
backplate is next!
 
I've never tried anything else, but I can't imagine having to haul something else around with me... Fuel bottle, screwdriver for tuning, glow plug igniter.... I think that's bad enough. My pull start works great. Even with my modified OWB. ;)
 
I've never tried anything else, but I can't imagine having to haul something else around with me... Fuel bottle, screwdriver for tuning, glow plug igniter.... I think that's bad enough. My pull start works great. Even with my modified OWB. ;)

I'm curious as to what you've dobe:whhooo:
My firsts over sh pullstart was junk along with the motor
replacement motor pullstart seems pretty tough, although bad luck with pop. 20
I have 2 toki .15 motors coming, next motor I'm getting is a nitro star t3.0!
I think roto start would be easier, and I carry a tool bad anyways so I wouldn't mind
 


---------- Post added at 10:50 PM ---------- Previous post was at 10:43 PM ----------

1. who uses what?
2. What do you prefer?
3. What works better when?

1. Pull-start/bump box/roto-start
2. Pull-start
3. Pull-start when used properly

The pull-starts for those engines you are running are junk. I understand. I personally think pull-starts are the easiest/fastest method but I also love starter boxes and roto-starts. You might try building a better pull-start. That would be ideal for your situation.
 
Last edited:
who uses what?

All.

What do you prefer?

Generally pull start, but there are times when it's nice not to have to yank the cord, especially with more stubborn engines.

What works better when?

Pull start is definitely easiest on the engine, as you can feel if there's something amiss, such as the engine trying to hydrolock. It's also nice not to have to toat around something else that requires batteries, or a special shaft that you'll forget at home.

That said, some of the more wound-up engines can be an SOB to get going when hot, and nothing puts a damper on your day like a very tired arm with blisters between fingers from yanking on a little ripcord ad nauseum. Most of my kits can be started with pull or start box.
 
I have since switched to starter boxes, but since that wasn't the topic, I came from rotostarts, pullstarts always break at the worse time so I would say roto in my experience.
 
thanks for that, with your experience how long would a 1500 9.6v battery last in one? i think i need a new battery, the used one i got dies quick, could be me though...
hey rolex, just a heads up, i had a ibook g4 given to me, so slow compared to my 15inch 2010 mbp but its better then nothing, and my point is that my spelling and everything should be a lot better :)
 
I'm not sure quite a few starts, I would charge my pack every other outing. At least a couple dozen starts
 
you mean like a couple seconds of the roto on per start right?
I'm having troubles starting a new motor so i can't really tell if its acting the way it should or if its the battery as it dies pretty quick.
the motors just a discontinud toki .12 they call a .15.
its started twice but wont start for crap...
 
yeah I'm talking about just normal starting have you tried leaning it out a little bit and then trying again
 
Once you learn how to consistently start it, the roto-start will fire it right up. I get 30+ starts from an $10.00 7.2 battery.
 
From my experience tuning skills make the difference! When I first got into nitro I hated pull starters...Lots of pulling and blisters before my truck would start! I relied on roto/ez starters to get me going a little easier. Once I learned to properly tune I started using pull starters and that is my prefered method now. Regardless of how easy your truck starts it's a good idea to have a back up battery for an electric starter or an extra pull start in the toolbox.
 
So this weekend we did a little experiment on cold starting engines (Roto-vs Pull).

My son used a stop-watch and timed me---I know it's silly but curious how 'faster' a pull start is:

Test 1 Roto (7.2 fully charged)
Vehicle: Savage
Engine Temp: 49 degrees
Total time to start: 35 seconds
Notes: Insertion of wand--8 seconds. Priming 11 seconds. I normally don't prime the engine with finger over exhaust, but for some reason it was not priming the first 2 seconds, so I plugged stinger and that chewed up time. Starting--15 seconds.

Test 1 Pull
Vehicle: 810
Engine Temp: 49 degrees
Total time to start: 14 seconds
Notes: Prime (3 pulls as always)--2 seconds. Starting--12 seconds (17 pulls)

***The next day***

Test 2 Roto (7.2 fully charged)
Vehicle: Savage
Outside temp: 53 degrees
Engine Temp: 120 degrees (heat gun)
Total time to start: 23 seconds
Notes: Insertion of wand--11 seconds. Priming 7 seconds. Starting--5 seconds.

Test 2 Pull
Vehicle: 810
Outside Temp: 54 degrees
Engine Temp: 120 degrees (heat gun)
Total time to start: 3 seconds
Notes: Prime (3 pulls as always)--2 seconds. Starting--1 seconds (2 pulls)

Obviously heating the engine made a huge difference. Setup of the roto-start (inserting wand) is what takes so long. Additionally fuel tubing was longer, so priming took a while, etc. Next will go Pull vs Bump Box. I imagine pull-start will win, but it will be closer than vs roto-start.
 
I honestly right now hate roto start as I've had bad luck with those junk toki motors.
But I'm moving up in this rc world though:)
 
Pull start for me, with a good tune the engine will fire up on the 2nd or 3rd pull.
 
So much compression on my new engine... I hate pull starts. I'm switching to roto start. So done with pulls. Tore up the webbing of my hands today.
 
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