Revo 3.3 Seized

[CreepyQuarryCrawler]

Don't forget a conrod if you go this route.

I hold out hope for your current engine.
How much fuel has been through it?
Who knows, "the ring" at this point may be causing excess pinch.
Have you tried pre-heating the head?
Besides giving it a good clean, you have that option.
I've had engines that the Roto-start couldn't turn over unless they were pre-heated

Replace the connecting rod too? You think it's bent, or is that just something people do?

Jenny's got back to me.

 

[CertifiedMike]

Replace the connecting rod too? You think it's bent, or is that just something people do?

Jenny's for back to me.

View attachment 276977

Wierd but ok. I am about 99% sure they used to ship out of Canada. No matter.

Yes, con rod gets replaced too.

 

[CreepyQuarryCrawler]

Wierd but ok. I am about 99% sure they used to ship out of Canada. No matter.

Yes, con rod gets replaced too.

Canada isn't very business friendly so I understand why they would move.
One of my friends owns a few businesses where the majority of his clients are in the US. He's looking at buying property down there due to the benefits.

 

[CertifiedMike]

Where you hammered your piston free, then locked up the motor, I would 100% replace the rod.

Tariffs really messed up the works for international shipping. Such a shame Traxxas exchange program isn't a better deal for ppl outside the US.

 

[CreepyQuarryCrawler]

Where you hammered your piston free, then locked up the motor, I would 100% replace the rod.

Tariffs really messed up the works for international shipping. Such a shame Traxxas exchange program isn't a better deal for ppl outside the US.

I was able to push the piston without using a hammer.

I did hammer on the dowel try to push the sleeve back in but it didn't fully seat. I remember it being flat with the deck when I checked the engine out a few weeks ago.

 

[tudordewolf]

You're going to have a much easier time of all this if you can get the engine a bit hot with a heat gun or even a blow-dryer, basically try to keep it as hot as you can keep handling it or a little more, holding it in a rag and working on it with tools, etc, and especially when trying to start it. A new TRX 3.3 is exceptionally cranky (pun intended) and needs all the softening it can get with preheating.

I was really squeamish about my first few nitro engines and thinking I'd easily damage them just by touching the cylinder walls, but now that I've set them down on concrete and used a mallet to free stuck bearings, I can appreciate that they're really quite durable and unless there's corrosion, rust, or obvious damage like scratches in the lining, most engines are saveable. Maybe the piston and sleeve need to be cleaned in a little fresh fuel so they stop binding up, I agree with the others that this actually a sign they're probably still good.

 

[CreepyQuarryCrawler]

 

[tudordewolf]

View attachment 277029
View attachment 277030

that'll buff out

 

[CreepyQuarryCrawler]

that'll buff out

Let me grab the compound

Well, looks like it's time to head to the LHS.
I am pretty sure I got all the pieces out. The piston pieces had fallen into the valley to join the broken connecting rod.
With it all cleaned up the bottom end rotates nice and smooth

 

[WRM]

View attachment 277029
View attachment 277030

Ouch! I did that last year, replaced piston, sleeve, rod, bearings, clutch shoes, clutch springs, clutch bell and bearings. It runs now!...

 

[CertifiedMike]

Let me grab the compound

View attachment 277032

Well, looks like it's time to head to the LHS.
I am pretty sure I got all the pieces out. The piston pieces had fallen into the valley to join the broken connecting rod.
With it all cleaned up the bottom end rotates nice and smooth

Ouch! I did that last year, replaced piston, sleeve, rod, bearings, clutch shoes, clutch springs, clutch bell and bearings. It runs now!...
View attachment 277035

You guys do excellent work!!!

Happy shopping!!!

 

[CreepyQuarryCrawler]

You guys do excellent work!!!

Happy shopping!!!

Let's just say I got what I needed

And back together!

Let's see how this goes.

 

[CreepyQuarryCrawler]

I cannot get it to stay running. I unfortunately reset the carb thinking I was doing the right thing now it won't run.

I went back to following reset instructions. Turn the high screw all the way in clockwise, then four full turns out. I set the idle at around 1mm. The low speed needle looks set flush.

I have been warming the truck because it's another dog poop day outside.

I can get it to run if I pull the throttle but when I let off it stalls.

 

[CertifiedMike]

Did you seal up thr backing plate?

Did you use green slime on carb o rings?

Air leak is my first quick guess.

Your LHS had everything in stock? That IS FANTASTIC!!!!

 

[CreepyQuarryCrawler]

Did you seal up thr backing plate?

Did you use green slime on carb o rings?

Air leak is my first quick guess.

Your LHS had everything in stock? That IS FANTASTIC!!!!

Yeah, thankfully they had everything. Last ones

I didn't remove the carb, the seals looked good on everything else.

I did get it to go. It was just really stubborn.
I reset the carb again, and went 1/8th leaner which is about where it was when it ran.

Tank two break in is done. Truck feels good!

 

[easy rider]

Yeah, thankfully they had everything. Last ones

I didn't remove the carb, the seals looked good on everything else.

I did get it to go. It was just really stubborn.
I reset the carb again, and went 1/8th leaner which is about where it was when it ran.

Tank two break in is done. Truck feels good!

I was reading everything before I posted. Cause I was going to tell you to lean the lsn.

 

[CreepyQuarryCrawler]

I was reading everything before I posted. Cause I was going to tell you to lean the lsn.

The weather has been so up and down, it's difficult to get the tune right for a noob.

 

[CreepyQuarryCrawler]

Holy smokes I am finding this frustrating.

I think the carb might be screwed.

I did't notice any difference adjusting the idle screw, the gap doesn't change if I push it on our out. The two speed also isn't shifting (which I think is one of the original issues that caused me to blow the engine).

I have tried loosening the screw several times to no avail. It just seems to me like the clutch is slipping more

I think I can easily tighten the slipper but the other issues (lack of idle and lack of shifting are still an issue).

I've just ran a few more tanks through it trying to figure it out.

If I put the low needle all the way on or all the way out-ish it obviously doesn't work but I still cannot find a happy space within that range.

Jheysus this has gone from being fun to being a battle of wills.

Update: I found a hairline crack in the carb by the idle adjustment screw :/

@CertifiedMike you knew before I had a clue that it was getting excess air.

LHS opens up after lunch, online order placed.

So the Carb now puts this repair at $235.
I hope that's it because we're getting awfully close to the cost of a new engine.

As I say to everyone else, education is expensive

Let's recap now, this should fix the lack of idle and get the truck running good on the combustion side again.

I think the next thing to do once it's running properly is to see if the two speed shifts. If it indeed is not going into second it may need to come out of the truck.

I bet there is some old grease keeping things in place.

 

[easy rider]

Get the carb fixed. Lack of second gear is likely tune related.

 

[CreepyQuarryCrawler]

Get the carb fixed. Lack of second gear is likely tune related.

That's the plan.

The reason why I suspect I may still have to deal with it is, a few days before it blew up it wasn't shifting.

I was in an industrial park; it was a beautiful evening! The sun was shining, it was a perfect 75 out. Big open space, all these loading docks with soft curves, perfect for light bashing!

I was ripping it, the truck was running great.
I was revving it out and if memory serves, a bit too much.

It never shifted into second. I just torched around in first. Then a few days later is when it failed.

Update:

New 5252 carb installed, system primed, but then she wouldn't completely fire. I suspect two things. EZ Start battery is/was weak and my garage is cool.

So everything is on the charger.
I'll pick this up again tomorrow.