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Revo 3.3 Seized

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Don't forget a conrod if you go this route.

I hold out hope for your current engine.
How much fuel has been through it?
Who knows, "the ring" at this point may be causing excess pinch.
Have you tried pre-heating the head?
Besides giving it a good clean, you have that option.
I've had engines that the Roto-start couldn't turn over unless they were pre-heated
Replace the connecting rod too? You think it's bent, or is that just something people do?

Jenny's got back to me.

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Wierd but ok. I am about 99% sure they used to ship out of Canada. No matter.

Yes, con rod gets replaced too.
Canada isn't very business friendly so I understand why they would move.
One of my friends owns a few businesses where the majority of his clients are in the US. He's looking at buying property down there due to the benefits.
 

Where you hammered your piston free, then locked up the motor, I would 100% replace the rod.

Tariffs really messed up the works for international shipping. Such a shame Traxxas exchange program isn't a better deal for ppl outside the US.
 
Where you hammered your piston free, then locked up the motor, I would 100% replace the rod.

Tariffs really messed up the works for international shipping. Such a shame Traxxas exchange program isn't a better deal for ppl outside the US.
I was able to push the piston without using a hammer.

I did hammer on the dowel try to push the sleeve back in but it didn't fully seat. I remember it being flat with the deck when I checked the engine out a few weeks ago.
 
You're going to have a much easier time of all this if you can get the engine a bit hot with a heat gun or even a blow-dryer, basically try to keep it as hot as you can keep handling it or a little more, holding it in a rag and working on it with tools, etc, and especially when trying to start it. A new TRX 3.3 is exceptionally cranky (pun intended) and needs all the softening it can get with preheating.

I was really squeamish about my first few nitro engines and thinking I'd easily damage them just by touching the cylinder walls, but now that I've set them down on concrete and used a mallet to free stuck bearings, I can appreciate that they're really quite durable and unless there's corrosion, rust, or obvious damage like scratches in the lining, most engines are saveable. Maybe the piston and sleeve need to be cleaned in a little fresh fuel so they stop binding up, I agree with the others that this actually a sign they're probably still good.
 
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