Restoration Project #4 - HPI RS4 Evo 3 - Ford Mustang & Nissan 350Z

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Not worth it then as you say. I already have some drift tires, HPI branded, but the plastic part has come off the rims on all 4, and are very hard to put back.

Cheers for the info
 
gandalfnz said:
Not worth it then as you say. I already have some drift tires, HPI branded, but the plastic part has come off the rims on all 4, and are very hard to put back.

Cheers for the info
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At that point buy rs4 drifts, the parts I listed above (chasdis, upper deck, arms, shafts) keep and sell the rest in grouped parts or chunks.

I may try to buy a drift rtr and baby it.
Maybe try amazon or ebsy drift tires. I havent got that far yet, but soon. I still have my 2010 Vaghn Gitten Jr. Mustang gt and falken drift wheels from my sold HPI E-10. Waiting for the right time to use those.
 
Doom! said:
Drifting always looked fun to me, but I would have to find someplace with a large smooth surface.
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Leaf blower for pesky pebbles. 🖒🖒
 
I see, so there was an RS4 model made specifically for drifting.
I saw one for sale locally, but guy wants $350 for it, which was a turn off right away. No body too.
 
gandalfnz said:
I see, so there was an RS4 model made specifically for drifting.
I saw one for sale locally, but guy wants $350 for it, which was a turn off right away. No body too.
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Rs4 3 evo is touring. Rs4 drift is the drift car. The 85056 and 85055 parts are for that car. Less of those then the touring model more than likely explains the hard to get drift parts.

The drift has the fuel tank on the left rear, and the motor is pulled forward, and a stand up steering servo. The touring rs4 has the fuel tank front right, and motor back right, and battery tray on the left with a lay down servo.

Only way id do 350 is a few bodies and wheels, and clean condition, maybe a spare motor.
 
Chubaka said:
Rs4 3 evo is touring. Rs4 drift is the drift car. The 85056 and 85055 parts are for that car. Less of those then the touring model more than likely explains the hard to get drift parts.

The drift has the fuel tank on the left rear, and the motor is pulled forward, and a stand up steering servo. The touring rs4 has the fuel tank front right, and motor back right, and battery tray on the left with a lay down servo.

Only way id do 350 is a few bodies and wheels, and clean condition, maybe a spare motor.
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Oh right, so many RS4 variants out there its crazy.
Def remember the engine positioned in the middle.
Now I can differentiate between the two.

I now own 3 RS4 EVO 3's. Quite happy they are the later model shaft driven RS4, rather then those old single needle carb belt driven ones.

I will get an HSP version soon, which is an exact copy of HPI RS4.

Cheers for the info.
 
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Checkem out boys!

They are mint, completely striped and cleaned, body and the engines!

Just waiting for an A arm to arrive so I can fully assemble the second one too.

Had to relocate the antenna on the top one, as fly sky later model receivers have a very short wire. But, looks factory! :)

Also got rid of the HPI poopy throttle linkage on both.

One running Traxxas radio with TSM (keeps the car amazingly straight, my recommendation).
Other running Fly Sky BS6 RX also with Fly Sky's own traction management (yet to try and compare to traxxas) with Fly SKY GT5 TX.
 

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WickedFog said:
They look like they're brand new. Nice job!
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Thanks!

Its totally possible to keep nitros clean from dirt and looking oily, although I rarely see this.
As long as the engine, lines and tank are sealed, and you give it a quick clean with an air compressor after each run, they always stay clean and tidy.
 
Great looking cars. Very clean also. 😁

If the arm your looking for has circles in it like the car with the green air filter, it should be the 85030, sold in packs of 2, 1 front 1 rear arm. The drift ones dont have the circles in it and should be 2 front 2 rear arms.
 
Thanks for the tips!

I have a question, hopefully it gets answered here, rather than making a new thread.

Been tuning one if my RS4's, and I get the pinging noise on deceleration after a WOT.

This is a sign of a LEAN HSN, correct?

The car is already spitting fuel at idle and has lots of smoke.
HSN is almost flush with the brass casing, if not a bit out actually.
LSN is good, takes off well.
I guarantee there is no leaks on this engine, I will try and new tank once I receive it, as this was second hand given to me, which I cleaned.
Temps are on the low between 80-90 C, which tells me it set quite rich, almost running too cold.
 
Guys, PVC pipe pressed around basher beat up wheels, how we hicks drift for the low
 
These are 3.0s? If so are they t3.0 or g3.0?
 
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