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Dremel slots in the screw heads. You may also want to take a heat gun or solder iron and heat them up to loosen the thread lock. Once you get them out, replace them with hex bolts and use only blue thread locker (not the red).
Hope this helps!
Hope this helps!
Are the screw heads stripped out? If you tried the solder iron and it didn't work, take a dremel tool and cut some slots into the heads to work them out. If you're having trouble doing it by hand, and have an adjustable drill (one with a clutch), then set the drill to the highest torque, lowest RPM setting then slowly and carefully try that.
Let me ask you this also, are you trying to remove the stock NitroStar engine or something like an OS? If it's the stocker, you may have to drill the screws out then carefully tap the mounts again (since it's part of the engine). If it's an aftermarket engine and you used the HPI motor mounts, take the engine off the mounts then hack the mounts off. Those engine mounts aren't too expensive.
Let me ask you this also, are you trying to remove the stock NitroStar engine or something like an OS? If it's the stocker, you may have to drill the screws out then carefully tap the mounts again (since it's part of the engine). If it's an aftermarket engine and you used the HPI motor mounts, take the engine off the mounts then hack the mounts off. Those engine mounts aren't too expensive.
Well, I'm not sure what to tell you. You haven't said so, but I'm guessing you stripped the screws. Is this correct or have you outright snapped the screw heads off? If you've just stripped them but have screwed them out enough to get a hacksaw blade in there, saw the heads off, pull the engine out of the truck then use a pair of pliers to remove the rest of the screw. If you have not backed them out enough to do that, you can try using a hacksaw blade to create a slot or get some Screw Medic by Myro. I think I got it at Sears once. It's graphite shavings in a glue-like medium. You put some on the stripped head to fill oin the gaps and then you can screw it out. You may try using some caulk if you have it, but I'm not sure how well that will work.
Hopefully you can get them out, but I'd strongly suggest investing, at the very least, in a Dremel tool. That thing is an absolute must, in my opinion, if you plan on wrenching on RC cars. Saves a lot of time and frustration.
Hopefully you can get them out, but I'd strongly suggest investing, at the very least, in a Dremel tool. That thing is an absolute must, in my opinion, if you plan on wrenching on RC cars. Saves a lot of time and frustration.
dannyd
Hardcore RCTalk User
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my screws are preety close to stripped. I'm only 17 and I'm the only boy in the family so i only have plyers and a couple of screw drivers. the screw are pleety much all the way in there. i have to go to the hobby shop this weekend to buy some stuff. I'm just going to ask the guy there to take it out and replace the screws. thats for your help.
Candyman
'Cuse is in the house!
Supporter
If it's set up the way I'm used to seeing, I'm guessing the engine is held on with 4 Phillips head screws that go directly into the engine block. No engine mount on that one. My experience is that for some reason, HPI uses an extrememly strong threadlock on them and torques them down pretty hard. The first important thing is to have the right screwdriver. If you're 17, it's time to start building your toolkit, and a good set of screwdrivers is a must. Then you need to flip the car and set it somewhere that you can push down really hard and not damage the car. Because in order to break those things free, you really have to lean down on the screwdriver and then turn them with a ton of force. If you ask me, it's a bit overkill, but inevitably all the HPI's come set up like that.
Unless HPI changed, these are Phillips, flat head screws countersunk into the chassis and since he's using the stocker engine, there are no mounts. Dannyd, rather than spend the money to have the LHS take them out, go buy yourself some tools. You cannot go into this hobby with just a pair of pliers, my man. Truthfully, I'm not picking on ya, but you need to get you some tools. They don't have to be extravagant or the absolute best ones, just durable. Here's a basic list to get you going:
Metric and standard hex driver sets. You can find full sets very reasonably priced.
A set of small Phillips and standard screw drivers.
A basic socket set, metric and standard.
Needle nose and adjustable pliers.
Dremel tool with basic accessories.
I'll bet dollars to donuts I could get all of that for around $50.00. DON"T BUY THIS STUFF FROM A HOBBY SHOP! Go to a Lowes or Home Depot or local hardware store. It's the same stuff, but cheaper.
This is a good start. From here, build up with specialty tools (if you want).
Good luck!
Metric and standard hex driver sets. You can find full sets very reasonably priced.
A set of small Phillips and standard screw drivers.
A basic socket set, metric and standard.
Needle nose and adjustable pliers.
Dremel tool with basic accessories.
I'll bet dollars to donuts I could get all of that for around $50.00. DON"T BUY THIS STUFF FROM A HOBBY SHOP! Go to a Lowes or Home Depot or local hardware store. It's the same stuff, but cheaper.
This is a good start. From here, build up with specialty tools (if you want).
Good luck!
Brother, I feel your pain not being able to yank that engine. It both sucks and blows, and having been in your exact spot (I have a MT4 as well) I know precisely what you're going through.
One more thought I have. If you own, or know someone that owns, any Torx drivers (they look like a Phillips screwdriver except the head look more like a star) you can try that. Like Candyman said earlier, you'll need to have a place you can really push down on the screw to get the torque you need. You might also try the solder iron again, but let that mother get really good and hot! You're not going to ruin anything and you're replacing those bastard screws anyways. Cook them suckers!
Let me know if there is anything else I can do to help. If I think of anything else, I'll let you know.
One more thought I have. If you own, or know someone that owns, any Torx drivers (they look like a Phillips screwdriver except the head look more like a star) you can try that. Like Candyman said earlier, you'll need to have a place you can really push down on the screw to get the torque you need. You might also try the solder iron again, but let that mother get really good and hot! You're not going to ruin anything and you're replacing those bastard screws anyways. Cook them suckers!
Let me know if there is anything else I can do to help. If I think of anything else, I'll let you know.
4u2nv
Gone - bye bye.
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Ya have any buddies or anything that might have some tools they can let ya use quick? If there THAT tight ya might yhave to drill them out and retap the threads. It wouldnt hurt to bring it into the LHS and see though. They might be nice and just do it quick for ya. If ya were closer, Id help ya out. Not taking any road trips by Mn. any day soon are ya?? lol.. Good luck
Candyman
'Cuse is in the house!
Supporter
And to go one step further, when you get them out, toss them. And buy a proper engine mount for the engine. That is one of the first things I did on my NRS4 2 and NRS4 3. It's a million times easier to deal with and will allow you to adjust your mesh and change gearing if you want to. There are a few nice engine mounts out there so it won't be too hard to find one that works and doesn't cost a ton. This is the one I have:
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXVB42&P=7
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXVB42&P=7
Candyman, just for my personal reference, do you suggest an engine mount even when the engine allows you to directly bolt it to the chassis? I've never really considered it before, but given your recent post, it makes perfect sense.
Candyman
'Cuse is in the house!
Supporter
The problem with the HPI system is that it doesn't allow any adjustment to the engine position. Therefore, you can't adjust gear mesh or change gear ratio. The only way you can change ratio is to be sure you use gears which have the same spacing. So if you go to a smaller pinion and smaller spur, the mesh will be way off and will strip the gears. And if you go bigger, the mesh will be way too tight and bind. So for $20 it's worth having the adjustable engine mount. No doubt.
Candyman
'Cuse is in the house!
Supporter
That's a hell of a start. Nice variety. I think you'll find that you'll use them a lot on a ton of projects. Downside? Soon the "tool bug" will hit. Just as bad as the "RC bug". And you'll be off buying tools for everything. Belive me. I'm a novice home handyman, but I can't help but scratch my head when I look in my tool room...
Candyman
'Cuse is in the house!
Supporter
See? Now you're catching on. That Dremel looks nice. Just make sure it's variable speed and you'll be fine. It has all the popular attachments. Again, I'm sure you'll find yourself using it for all sorts of things.
