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Recomend? steering servo

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lyndo62

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I had a hitec 985ms! and well it no well. I was looking at a HItech 7954S can anyone comment! i want something that will not wear as bad as the 985ms.
 
not sure what savage (elec or nitro) you have but unless you can run 7.4V to that servo, you wouldn't be able to take full advantage of its power. You also need to look at how much power it consumes. If you are running a hump pack, a high torque servo can really drop your runtimes. I ran a JR8711 with a 1500 pack and it didn't last long. I switched to a 200oz airtronics and it was much better.
 
You had the 985MG? What happened to it? I've been running those servers for a long time and they hold up great.

Actually i run in a lot of grass. And when i first got the servo the sever would move the tires also to the full extent turing radius at a full stop. Now the steering moves ever so slightly the tires move when at a stop poiston. The truck still turns when moving and if you lift the truck off the ground they move effortlessly. I checked the linkage i cannot see any issues. I have about 10 tanks of fuel on this servo.


My bad yes its a 985 mg.

Anyone?????
 
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Have you checked the servo horn for stripped teeth? Is your saver spring getting weak?

If you hold the trucks wheels, then operate the remote to turn the wheels, see if you can tell what moves. The horn, the screw through the horn or something else.
 
Have you checked the servo horn for stripped teeth? Is your saver spring getting weak?

If you hold the trucks wheels, then operate the remote to turn the wheels, see if you can tell what moves. The horn, the screw through the horn or something else.

The horn looks fine. I will do the test mentioned. How do I tell
if the spring is worn.
 
sounds like a servo saver to me. hold the tires and see how much force they have when turning.
 
Ok i held the tires like you both said. Hardly any resistance at all. i noticed the bottom two knuckles on the steel shaft spread a part significantly. For instance the bottom knuckle will move in the full position yet the other does not. I check the servo horn teeth as well and it achieved nothing. (the teeth are in great shape. When i speak of low resistance during the test (hold the tire and turning the steering i can easily over power the steering. Also my savage (4.6 rtr) does not have that much running time on it how would i know if my spring is worn. Also is this common when you trade up to a better stronger steering servo.
 
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Ok i held the tires like you both said. Hardly any resistance at all. i noticed the bottom two knuckles on the steel shaft spread a part significantly. For instance the bottom knuckle will move in the full position yet the other does not. I check the servo horn teeth as well and it achieved nothing. (the teeth are in great shape. When i speak of low resistance during the test (hold the tire and turning the steering i can easily over power the steering. Also my savage (4.6 rtr) does not have that much running time on it how would i know if my spring is worn. Also is this common when you trade up to a better stronger steering servo.

OK i fixed it. The top nut on the steel post with the spring on it was really loose i cranked it down and now it works like a charm. I have a better understanding on how the steering systems works now.
 
Don't crank it down all the way or you remove any "saver" effect that it has. Make sure to put some locktight on the saver nut so it doesn't walk loose on you again.

Depending on the savage it is, you may benefit from upgrading that spring in the saver like I did to this one:
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXXZP5&P=7

It's stiffer than the older stock spring.
 
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