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RC10T3 differential

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Location
Woodland, WA
RC Driving Style
  1. Racing
  2. Flying
Hi all:

Back in 2018 I bought a used RC10T3 from a seller on eBay. The truck came mostly complete, needing only a body. I added the missing parts, tried it out in my neighbor's driveway, and all seemed okay. I didn't adjust a thing. Notice the Team Associated brushed motor in the photo.

rc10t3chassis2018.webp


Last week I replaced the ESC, receiver, and steering servo with modern units

Yesterday I decided out of the blue to run it in my backyard after I mowed. I noticed that though the steering servo was working well and had proper throw that the car had trouble turning left, and that the left rear wheel was getting power much better than the right rear wheel. I took the car to the driveway next door and did a couple of speed runs, it is really fast.

I decided to check into the drive issue after I played a bit, I'd run the car for about ten minutes. I found that no matter what I did with the nut for the slipper disc the problem persisted. I went to remove the right wheel to take the right suspension apart far enough to reach the adjuster for the ball diff but discovered that I don't own a single nut driver that will remove the wheel nut, so I ordered a nut driver. I'll try tightening the diff when the nut driver I ordered arrives on Wednesday.

In the meantime I did some looking around, I'd like to run the T3 on the indoor carpet track in Beaverton, OR so I'd like to install a gear diff. But I can't seem to find one that works. Also, in case there isn't a gear diff available and if the diff in my RC10T3 is damaged, what part of the diff is the most likely part to have been damaged and are there any parts to replace the damaged part(s) with?

I considered the re-release transmission Team Associated came out with last year, but it doesn't appear to be a direct replacement for my current transmission.

Thanks in advance to anyone who can help.
 
Welcome to the RCTalk forum.

I'm not too familiar with the T3 platform, but I'm pretty sure there was never a gear diff for it. eBay will be the quickest way to track down parts. I know the T3 idler gear is also used on the B2/B3/B4/T4/SC10 rides and finding a stock composite one cost some $$$.

Getting/keeping a vintage RC up and running can be troublesome if no spare parts were already acquired. I often suggest testing one's patience by seeing how long it takes to find the usual wear items like what makes up a transmission and driveline. Maybe you already started and that's how you ended up here. I thought parts hunting for the B4/T4 platforms was starting to get bad a few years ago. T3 parts has got to be just as bad.
 
Last edited:
T3's for life! (mine - https://www.rctalk.com/forum/showcase/team-associated-rc10t3.285/ )
i don't recall a gear diff for the T3. even the RTR came with a ball diff if memory serves.
anyway, usually the rings and balls wear out. still fairly easy to find on ebay, not sure if AE still has anything in stock you'll have to run the part #'s on there site to find out. rings are part # - 9367 and the balls are # - 6581 and make sure you use stealth diff lube on that. before you buy, check the rings, the balls with wear a groove into the rings, if that's the case you can just turn them around.
also check out the thrust bearing. the thrust washers and balls wear out. the washers can also be turned around, but if you need replacements # - 6573 and balls are # - 6574. also make sure the spring hasn't collapsed, that's # - 6582. and the thrust gets black grease.
and if you need the gear, lack of maintenance will wear them out, the gear is # - 9365.
keep it maintained and it'll last years.
 
T3's for life! (mine - https://www.rctalk.com/forum/showcase/team-associated-rc10t3.285/ )
i don't recall a gear diff for the T3. even the RTR came with a ball diff if memory serves.
anyway, usually the rings and balls wear out. still fairly easy to find on ebay, not sure if AE still has anything in stock you'll have to run the part #'s on there site to find out. rings are part # - 9367 and the balls are # - 6581 and make sure you use stealth diff lube on that. before you buy, check the rings, the balls with wear a groove into the rings, if that's the case you can just turn them around.
also check out the thrust bearing. the thrust washers and balls wear out. the washers can also be turned around, but if you need replacements # - 6573 and balls are # - 6574. also make sure the spring hasn't collapsed, that's # - 6582. and the thrust gets black grease.
and if you need the gear, lack of maintenance will wear them out, the gear is # - 9365.
keep it maintained and it'll last years.
Wow, thanks for the reply. If adjusting the diff spring on the right hand output shaft fails, I'll take the rear end apart and inspect it to see what I need.

I'll have to buy some stealth lube, but that's not an issue.
 
I finally got around to tightening the ball diff on my RC10T3 late last night. The diff bolt was loosened about a full turn. I tightened the bolt down all the way then backed it off 1/8th of a turn and the diff works perfectly now.

I'm very happy, I thought for sure the diff was damaged.

Here's a photo of my RC10T3, the body is very plain.
RC10T3 blue.webp
 
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