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Question about cleaning Nitro vehicles

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godale03

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Hey guys,

When using Denatured Alcohol to clean your nitros up with, to you remove all electronics ie Servos, reciever, batteries, before you spray? Or do you just spray and then blow dry with an air compressor? Thanks guys.

Tom
 
I recommend using a painters soft brush along with the DA and air compressor.

To get things done well I would also recommend separating the front and rear ends from the main chassis. On my Savage, I remove the Front end and the rear end. I also remove the engine to get it nice and clean. I like to make sure the head is debris free and the crank case is clean.

Compressed air cans are cool for field jobs but an air compressor is way better.
 
jon2 said:
I recommend using a painters soft brush along with the DA and air compressor.

To get things done well I would also recommend separating the front and rear ends from the main chassis. On my Savage, I remove the Front end and the rear end. I also remove the engine to get it nice and clean. I like to make sure the head is debris free and the crank case is clean.

Compressed air cans are cool for field jobs but an air compressor is way better.


Jon,

How do you seperate the rear ends of your vehicle? I didn't know that you could remove them as a whole unit. THat is way cool. I have a Tmaxx and a 1/8 scale buggy. Is there any secrets to cleaning those? Thanks

Tom
 
the T-maxx has a bout 8 screws for the rear and 10 for the front....the 4 holding the chasis brace to the skid plate and then 4 on top holding the chassis to the bulkhead....in th efront you have 2 more for the steering bellcrank....put the screws back in the bell crank to keep your bearings from getting lost...let the shaftslide apart and 'viola..the buggy is pretty much the same thing.....the maxx is easy to break down like that....buggy is just a little harder cause of the upper steering brace setup....
 
If you look in the manual , you will see how they front and rear end can be separated.
 
i hang my vehicles up with a bungi cord .. normall sideways so that the electronics are at the highest point.. first i spray the electronics with wd40 then i spray the rest of the vehicle with simple green and i try not to get it on the electronics.. the wd40 is just incase a lil gets on and i feel it will protect it from what little may get on there..

then i scrub what i can with a toothbrush. then i spray straight water on to rinse .. then i used compressed air and rinse again then blow it again ..then wd4o the whole vehicle especially around the electronics to clean that area then blow one more time.... walla done...
 
i use denatured alcohol and a med scrub brush and compress to blow it off
 
I have a compressor tool to spray down with a 1:1 mix of simple green and isopropyl alcohol. I wd40 the cups AFTER cleaning and air blowing all mositure off. A sit out in the sun afterwards would not hurt matters.
 
Well then, since I mentioned nothing about taking them off, I guess I don't.
 
Take your electronics out and stick em in a balloon for the next time you clean. Otherwise, what I do is blast the electronics with my compressor then spray the car down with cleaner. Let it sit for a bit, reblast with air and brush. If your electronics are ballooned already, you don't have to be so "careful" around them.

Just remember to squirt some oil in the pillow balls and check your bearings in the hubcarriers for lubrication since DA and nitro cleaner will remove any lubrication without an effort.
 
his general question is being answered in several over all general ways...
i do not suggest using denatured alcohol .. its not good for plastic such as the servo cases etc..... plastic is a petroleum based product and should not be dried out which alcohol does..it will eventually weaken the structure of plastic. wd40 is a cleaner and good for the plastic imo.
 
Mix Simply Green with Alcohol (50/50), Baloon and keep your electronics covered, then blast the stuff, works like a charm. The 50/50 mixture dissolves the petroleum oils in the mixture which is what weakens the plastic.
 
a 50/50 mix can get quite expensive if u have to clean like i do .. i like my vehicles to be clean.. u dont need alcohol .. simple green works fine ...alcohol is bad for plastic.
 
xdamxincx said:
a 50/50 mix can get quite expensive if u have to clean like i do .. i like my vehicles to be clean.. u dont need alcohol .. simple green works fine ...alcohol is bad for plastic.

I have to agree. Take it from an older guy who's been running for quite a few years.
Simple green works very well, also trinity nitro wash.
Don't get the electronics wet.

I just use nitro spray. Expensive, but works great.
 
I spray my RC10-GT with a fine spray of DN (after I've blown the whole car off with compressed air), including electronics...no ballons on anything except on my rear NiCad receiver pack. I do the truck in 3 segments , front to back...I spray 1/3 and immediately dry with compressed air while the car is upside down. I've never had a problem with conflict of materials i.e. plastic and denatured alcohol over many months. In fact, I called the Futaba tech guys about 6 months ago and asked about the DN and spraying it directly on the receiver and servos (no balloons), and he said "no sweat as long as I IMMEDIATELY blow it dry after spraying. That's my $.02 worth....I would be real freaked about using any kind of water based/mixed cleaner on unprotected electronics.
 
RatzoRC said:
I have to agree. Take it from an older guy who's been running for quite a few years.
Simple green works very well, also trinity nitro wash.
Don't get the electronics wet.

I just use nitro spray. Expensive, but works great.

As I stated on the third line.

6 to one, 1/2 a dozen to the other.

What ever works.
I prefer nitro spray because it's safe on everything.
 
I've never used the nitro spray . whats its ingredients?i figured it to be like brake parts cleaner...
 
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