Pull Start not recoiling

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George Gibson

RC Newbie
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Location
Pretoria, South Africa
RC Driving Style
  1. Bashing
  2. Racing
Hi Everyone

Please can someone help me with this issue that I am experiencing on my HPI Throphy 3.5 Buggy. When I remove the pull start it pulls and returns perfectly. As soon as n fix it onto the engine block it pulls really hard and does not go back in. I am still very new in this so all n had done so far was to remove the glow plug to see if pulls easier when there is no compression but even with the plug removed it is really hard to pull and doesn't go back in

Any advice
Thanks

Please can someone help me with this issue that I am experiencing on my HPI Throphy 3.5 Buggy. When I remove the pull start it pulls and returns perfectly. As soon as n fix it onto the engine block it pulls really hard and does not go back in. I am still very new in this so all n had done so far was to remove the glow plug to see if pulls easier when there is no compression but even with the plug removed it is really hard to pull and doesn't go back in

Hi Guys

I just came across another post on this page of a guy that has the same problem on another vehicle though. I think we might have the same issue though. Thanks for this cool and knowledge full forum.

Thanks
 
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I have heard of 2 such problems... The one way bearing is almost Def your issue, I would make sure that it is clean. Lubed and installed the right way. The second was that there was a spacing issue and I believe their issue was that the knot was binding up, dragging internally when it was tightened up. I hope you have it solved... If not, there's a couple ideas for you.
Good luck!
Thanks for the compliment btw, I truly enjoy helping ppl out whenever I can!
 
The one way bearing does require maintenance from time to time. Ita not a popular topic for discussion in general. I don't know that any manufacturers list that as part of their 'operations manual' they need to be maintained... When they need to be removed it's very important to make note of the direction it came out. (there is usually some kind of text on one face of the bearing. Make note of that as it comes out.
Clean the bearing out thoroughly, make sure there is NO gritty feeling in it and that it spins smoothly... In only 1 direction!!! If it is spinning backwards, it's junk and need a replace. If not, carefully lube the bearing. Lots of ppl use the mobile 1 synthetic oil. Be sure to replace the bearing in the same orientation. Everything else should be straight forward enough.
Good luck! Please do a follow up post. Let us know how it's going for you. :thumbs-up:
 
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The one way bearing does require maintenance from time to time. Ita not a popular topic for discussion in general. I don't know that any manufacturers list that as part of their 'operations manual' they need to be removed... Very important to make note of the direction it came out. (there is usually some kind of text on one face of the bearing. Make note of that as it comes out.
Clean the bearing out thoroughly, make sure there is NO gritty feeling in it and that it spins smoothly... In only 1 direction!!! If it is spinning backwards, it's junk and need a replace. If not, carefully lube the bearing. Lots of ppl use the mobile 1 synthetic oil. Be sure to replace the bearing in the same orientation. Everything else should be straight forward enough.
Good luck! Please do a follow up post. Let us know how it's going for you. :thumbs-up:

Hi Mike thanks again

I will do a post tomorrow with the outcome of the investigation. I so wish I knew about this forum when I started out. Could have saved me plenty of time and many parts that I broke going through the learning curve. HAHA

Thanks for the advise, I will be in contact again soon
 
Sounds good. At least you know where we are now... And maybe you can hang around to help save someone else from that painful and expensive learning curve. The community here is great! Lots of bright ppl with a lot of experience and always willing to lend a hand.
Good luck!
Looking forward to hearing the outcome!
 
If the o-way was put in backwards ,it would just merely free spin when you pull the pull rope ,then you
know you have it backwards!

Sometimes they will bind up when you tighten the starter housing on to the block that causes it to
freeze up.
If the pull starter spins freely when you put it on to the block before you tighten the screws ,but
freezes up when you tighten up the screws ,then its binding!
Also the starter shaft maybe getting offset from the o-way causing the bind ,you might can file or
grind the end of the starter output shaft down a little ,an round or chaffer the edge of the shaft a little!

O-ways do not like lube ,it causes them to slip ,that's why they have to be cleaned every now & then!
 
I hadn't thought of the shaft itself binding... That is possible. I was working off the idea that this was operating properly before and this is something that just started happening, this you find yourself pulling your hair out in a crap situation. If it was working before and has now become an issue, I would look at any grinding etc as a LAST resort. "Ungrinding' doesn't exist!
IF you choose to do any grinding, keep in mind that the surface that the bearing rides against has to be 100% smooth as that is the surface that ALL the bearings need to grip in order to function at all.

Lube & reinstall one-way bearing

oneway4_s.jpg

Step 4: Lubricate the roller clutch with a few drops of Mobil 1 5W-30 synthetic motor oil, and place it onto the starter shaft. You may now reattach the start mechanism.

oneway5_s.jpg



Note: The one-way bearing MUST be installed with the text (shown in picture) facing the engine case for proper performance. Once installed onto the starter shaft, the bearing should spin freely counter-clockwise, and engage the shaft when turned clockwise.



If after cleaning and relubing the one-way bearing, it still does not engage the starter shaft, then the starter shaft and/or one-way bearing will need to be replaced. We recommend replacing both at the same time for best performance, as they wear together during their operation.

I stole this from a manufacturer of both cars and engines. This may help you to decide what you want/need to do in order to get yourself back in running order.
Again, I would recommend doing the bearing first. They are a very common issue and due to the nature of our hobby and nitro, often a victim of neglect.
As I and @cbaker65 have mentioned, check for binding when things are tightened.
You can get a good idea of the condition of the started shaft by putting the cleaned up and lubed bearing on the shaft and giving it a spin. It should have a nice and smooth feel and should not allow any backspin or play.
As far as the bearing not liking lube... The engine itself provides lube to the bearing thru the fuel. This is one of the reasons that ALL of us here pretty much agree that you need a fuel with excellent lube percentages. Most high quality fuels have this but it's always best to make sure. High quality fuel is imperative.
Getting back to the lube... By adding a little bit of a THIN high quality synthetic motor oil, you are insuring that the bearing has good lube prior to the engine being able to penetrate and do it's job.
The pics in the info I 'borrowed' show the text that I am talking about. That will make it easier to get it right the first time.
That is totally correct tho, there will not be any damage if it is installed backwards, it will just spin freely when you pull the cord. Just don't get frustrated and use a bump start on it from there!!! :hehe:
 
It may not be the 0-way period!
The output shaft could be bottoming out on the pull start housing or pull rope pulley
as the starter is being tighten to the block causing the binding!

Lube or no lube is not going to cause the 0-way to just quit ,if the o-way just quits ,then it
either needs to be cleaned or its damaged or worn out!....:D
 
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