PRP Swift

[CorradoPsi]

can i run 30% nitro in the stock sh .21 motor? i run odonnel 30% in all my other mills and i will want to run it in this one as well so that i dont have to keep different grades on hand. can i just run a colder plug and be alright, or will i have to shim it? if i have to shim, where do i get them?

tia
chris

 

[WA2FAST]

Thanx for the update Cameron... kick ass that some of these new parts are actually available in the US now. As far as the outdrives go, what a total pain in the ass... guess I will just have to eat it and get a few sets... UGH. Seems like they will never resolve this situation, I just don't understand. The new upper A-Arms and front bumper are a very nice "new parts" list so far... hopefully that list will grow to cover the rest of the things on the buggy. It will be nice buying PRP replacement parts for a change. Keep up the good work. Thanx guys.

 

[niggle]

Niggle,

I originally made part numbers for the Swift in August last year. The main factory in China decided to use their own numbering system sometime earlier this year (without telling anyone, I might add). I think Schumacher sells parts now using the factory's numbers, and not what we use in America. It's a big pain in the arse, I'm not sure why things changed. My numbers don't make sense to them, their numbers/letters don't make sense to me. Bluh.

For America, we'll still be using the old system of five digits with the occasional alpha suffix to indicate an upgrade part. Using my part numbers, you can tell how old the part is (we'd better be around in 10 years!). The forthcoming truggy, Raptor, and Concept X will use the same system if I have to poke my own eye out.

Thanks Cameron.

While you're at it, can you assign a part number for the center driveshaft joint cup (Roger will fill you in on this one!)?

All the Swift stuff I've had from/via Schumacher so far has used the same parts numbering system as the Swift Parts List sheet and AtlasHobbies website. In addition Schumacher use a "P" prefix to differentiate the PRP parts from their own manufactured parts (which also have a 5 digit code).

That reminds me, I need to hassle Robin for a UK retail price list for Swift parts. Any chance of Golden Lion providing a parts explosion diagram for the SH .21 engine and carburettor?

 

[WA2FAST]

Well... since the hardened outdrives aren't in yet... I guess I have to just eat it and go buy a couple more sets. They are hosed and I don't want to kill the pins in the dogbone. Please let me know when you guys get them in... man...

 

[HP Invent]

Thanks Cameron.

While you're at it, can you assign a part number for the center driveshaft joint cup (Roger will fill you in on this one!)?

Got a part number for ya niggle: 11620

 

[WA2FAST]

Just bought another set of PRP 11609's (outdrives)... we'll see how these baby's last. Hopefully you get the new ones before I need these again, 20 bucks for a set that I know is going to go bad soon is damn expensive... it's like paying 40 for fuel instead of 20 because I need to buy a set of outdrives every time.

Sorry... just venting.

 

[CorradoPsi]

is it only the outdrives at the wheels that are affected or do the ones on the center diff wear as well? ill need to know so that i can start making modified mugen outdrives for you guys in a few weeks. since that seems to be the only viable solution in the somewhat near future.

also, does anyone have an answer to my above post about 30% nitro?

 

[HP Invent]

also, does anyone have an answer to my above post about 30% nitro?

Yeah, I run 30% in my SH when I first got it and the two things I changed was the glowplug and added a copper shim. I went to a cold plug ( 7-8 ) heat range. Temperature should be around 230-250 degrees.

 

[WA2FAST]

Outdrives in the center look fine on mine... it's the ones on the front and rear diff that are bad. Do you really have the ability to do these? If so, I may just get those from you and return the ones I bought today if it is any time soon that you think you can get them done... please let me know.

 

[CorradoPsi]

Outdrives in the center look fine on mine... it's the ones on the front and rear diff that are bad. Do you really have the ability to do these? If so, I may just get those from you and return the ones I bought today if it is any time soon that you think you can get them done... please let me know.

i wont be doing them anytime soon. heck my buggy doesn't even get here till thursday. if you havent installed yours yet, take them to a local machine shop, and tell them to have them case hardened for you, if they ask you how hard tell them about 40-45Rc (rockwell). they shouldnt charge you too much if they have other parts going out for treatment as well, but if yours are the only parts being done, cost will go up. but yes i certainly have the capability to cut down mugen parts. i think that what i will try first, is when my buggy gets here. ill take apart my diffs and send the outdrives out to get case hardened. if they still wear after that, ill be modifying mugen parts unless the updated parts are out.

hp- thanks for the info. where can i get the shim, is it a universal part i can pick up at any shop?

 

[HP Invent]

hp- thanks for the info. where can i get the shim, is it a universal part i can pick up at any shop?

Yes, I have a list of part numbers from different r/c manufactures for you that are very helpful. I'll find them for you. The i.d. is 5mm and and the o.d. is 8mm. The important factor is the thickness. Again, i'll try to get these thickness' for you.

 

[CorradoPsi]

Yes, I have a list of part numbers from different r/c manufactures for you that are very helpful. I'll find them for you. The i.d. is 5mm and and the o.d. is 8mm. The important factor is the thickness. Again, i'll try to get these thickness' for you.

that sounds like the shims for the diffs to me. while id still like that list of part numbers i was refering to the shim for the head of the engine so i can run 30%

 

[WA2FAST]

Wonder if I could take in one of these PRP outdrives and a set of Mugen's and tell them to make them the same length... think that would work? I don't know what would be cheaper, but if we KNOW that the Mugen ones won't wear the same, then why not just have that done at a machine shop? Let me know what you think. I have no idea how much this stuff costs to do, but there is a damn good machine shop right down the road here from the office that has done work for me in the past on parts for the Mustang.

 

[xxxzayas]

WA2FAST: The problem is not getting them machined, the problem is that that they need to be heat treated as well. Also making a few outdrives would be pretty costly. I believe the Mugen MBX4 outdrives are really close to ours and those might work. Don't quote me but I think the part number is CO223. I hope this helps.

JZ

 

[WA2FAST]

No, I did not mean machine them from scratch, I just meant to take a set of PRP outdrives AND a set of Mugen outdrives to a machine shop, and since from what I hear the only difference is the length of the outdrive on the axle side, have them cut that portion down so that it matches the PRP outdrive. I sure wish that someone had a comparison pic of the PRP Swift outdrive next to the Mugen MBX4 or MBX5 outdrive (whichever is the one that is close to the PRP part).

Do you think that would be possible? I seems that it would be much easier than having the PRP outdrives heat treated and hardened.

I just looked up that part number, you are right... and it is the same part for the MBX4 and the MBX5... CO223.

 

[CorradoPsi]

Wonder if I could take in one of these PRP outdrives and a set of Mugen's and tell them to make them the same length... think that would work? I don't know what would be cheaper, but if we KNOW that the Mugen ones won't wear the same, then why not just have that done at a machine shop? Let me know what you think. I have no idea how much this stuff costs to do, but there is a damn good machine shop right down the road here from the office that has done work for me in the past on parts for the Mustang.

this is exactly what i would do, if the heat treating didnt work, only i would do it myself since i have a lathe at work. however I'm fairly certain that just a simple case hardening would take care of the wear problem. case hardening allows you to harden mild (low carbon) steel by packing it in a carbon dense media and heating it up enough for it to absorb the carbon. then the part is quenched just like a tool steel is. this leaves the part with a hardend outer skin ( about .050" thick)to resist wear and the inside is still a flexible mild steel that can absorb shock and stress so that the part doesn't break.

 

[WA2FAST]

Hmm... thank you for that information! .050 will still leave PLENTY of clearance for everything, so that's good to know and I bet that would probibly take care of the issues... wonder what my machine shop would charge for that... or even if they would do it. Thanx for that information though, never knew how that worked.

What is this process called... is there a speciffic name for the process so that I don't sound like a jackass walking in there not knowing what I am talking about (even though I am :arrr: )

 

[CorradoPsi]

Hmm... thank you for that information! .050 will still leave PLENTY of clearance for everything, so that's good to know and I bet that would probibly take care of the issues... wonder what my machine shop would charge for that... or even if they would do it. Thanx for that information though, never knew how that worked.

What is this process called... is there a speciffic name for the process so that I don't sound like a jackass walking in there not knowing what I am talking about (even though I am :arrr: )

the process is called "case hardening" and it does not add material like a coating does. it hardens the material that is already there. and any machine shop can get it done for you, they have to be able to do this to keep buisness. they dont necessarily do it in house though. a lot of shops will send it out to a specialist. this is why it pays to call around and see who has a batch of parts going out soon, because the machine shop pays an initial fee to get it done, and then anything over a certain weight is an extra charge. therefore adding your parts to an order that they already are getting done will actually cost the shop very little if anything at all. hence they can pass that savings on to you by charging less to do it.

HP Invent, did you find that list of parts for me yet, and where can i get that shim for the head of the stock engine?

 

[CorradoPsi]

HP Invent, you there?

 

[HP Invent]

HP Invent, you there?

Sorry, it's been very busy at work cause we are re-locating to a new site. I'll get the information to you by next week. Everything at work is a mess cause there's computer's everywhere, boxes, boxes, and more boxes. I'm posting from home right now. We should be live ( internet friday ( june25 ). Sorry for the delay.

There are a number of different 5mm shims that you can use from other manufactures. These are the part numbers: (I'm glad I stil have these for you guys

1) Power Racing Products: part # 61401 (six shims)
2) Mugen Seiki: part # C0227 ( this has the most shims 25 )
3) Yokomo: part # ZC-S50S ( various thicknesses 18 shims )

As for the clutch, I have the black mugen clutch shoes. You can use almost any manufacture clutch shoes cause they are all compatable.

Hope this helps.

Here ya go. I remember posting it a long time ago, but there are the part numbers for the different shim kits.

As for the copper shim, I just used an RB concept copper shim for a .21.