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PRP Swift

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CorradoPsi said:
has anyone broken thier front brace yet. the carbon fiber one that attaches to the front bulkhead. i managed to today in the first 10 minutes and I'm not even sure of how, cause i wasn't running it hard. i cartwheeled it about 3 times in some really rutted mulch but thats all i can think of. still finishing up the breakin so i didnt even have it up to speed, maybe 15mph if that. has anyone found an aluminum part from another buggy that fits? otherwise I'm stuck making my own from aluminum. i can do it, but id rather just buy the part. and i dont want another carbon fiber piece if they break this easy
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Savage_Savage broke his, but then he did t-bone a huge lump of concrete. I hit a small kerbstone, admittedly not at full speed, which broke the front bumper but the front brace is holding up well.

I have cartwheeled my Swift once and that resulted in a snapped front right CVD.

The Protech Enigma front brace looks very similar to the Swifts (they have a common ancestry apparently) and is made from anodised blue aluminium. The Protech is very popular in continental Europe but I suspect it may not be marketed in the US.

WA2FAST said:
Niggle, I'm willing to bet that if you look at the bone ends on SAVAGE's old car you'd see the dull steel color pins I am talking about, and yes, they look pressed in. I wish I had your resources sometimes for stuff like that.
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No, they are definitely chromed.

No fancy resources here my friend, just a 2lb lump hammer and a nail punch! :naughty:
 
Gotchya... guess I could find a new "pin" to punch in, but is easier to just get a new CVJ... save time and I have a few bones and the such stocked up now anyway for when the next one breaks or wears out.
 
WA2FAST said:
Gotchya... guess I could find a new "pin" to punch in, but is easier to just get a new CVJ... save time and I have a few bones and the such stocked up now anyway for when the next one breaks or wears out.
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3mm spring steel roll pins are what I'm planning to use, cut down with the trusty dremel. I'll let you know how it goes.
 
That link... those are hollow... those will get wasted fast wouldn't they? I would imagine that you would NEED the pins to be solid vs. hollow.
 
they dont have to be, and to get pins the exact diameter for a press fit might not be as easy as you think. a press fit for steel would be about .0005" interference and if that hole gets worn at all pushing in and out new pins, you can consider your replacements useless. those hollow pins will work just fine, and will last longer than your drive cups do. they are actually a few thousandths larger than the original pin, but since they are hollow spring pins they will compress to fit the hole and stay in place. and at 5 cents a piece, it wont break the bank to replace them more often than the entire bone. i dont buy hinge pins at all either. i use titainium stock from work and my dremel tool to make new ones whenever i snap one. there are some parts in the RC world that are just rediculously over priced and i refuse to pay it. especially when anyone with a rotary tool of some type can make thier own replacement. id consider these pins to be one of those parts.
 
Got to agree with you there. I don't have access to material stock but I have cut down 2mm twist drills to make drive pins for 1:10 cars in the past.

Team X-Ray make a great play about the outdrives and other components on the new XB8 buggy being made from "Hudy special spring steel".

I'm pretty sure my dogbone pins made from "nothing special spring steel" will work fine too.
 
niggle said:
Team X-Ray make a great play about the outdrives and other components on the new XB8 buggy being made from "Hudy special spring steel".
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What in the world is that?

I see your point as far as the pins go, that's a damn good idea, thank you. I will look into that. Especially if it will wear the outdrives slightly less than the stock ones do :ponder:
 
it wont wear them less. i just dont think that the pins wear as fast as the outdrives do.
 
Narcolepticflea

Hey man, if you are reading this, your email address doesn't accept messages, it just says user unknown. This is in regards to your questions about my Swift Buggy. Please email me from a valid account.
 
has anyone started making aftermarket parts yet. whats availible out there? wagnerov already told me about some aftermarket shock towers. i just wanna know what else is out there.
 
About the dogbone-end pins, are you guys saying that if you break one, you replace them with these hollow pin things? How do you get the old ones out? The ones on my storm look pressed in; do you drill them out?

I've noticed that a few of the pins on my CV's are starting to wear a little - getting flat on one side. If I could replace them with these, it would be wonderful. I wouldn't have to dish out $30 for a whole new CV.
 
cbreaker said:
About the dogbone-end pins, are you guys saying that if you break one, you replace them with these hollow pin things? How do you get the old ones out? The ones on my storm look pressed in; do you drill them out?

I've noticed that a few of the pins on my CV's are starting to wear a little - getting flat on one side. If I could replace them with these, it would be wonderful. I wouldn't have to dish out $30 for a whole new CV.
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Can't comment on the Storm dogbones as I only run Swifts, but if the Storm pins are pressed in then they should press or punch out.

If your only alternative is to buy new CVDs then you have nothing to lose by attempting to refurbish your old dogbones.

With a suitable support under the end of the dogbone (a partially opened vice or a thick piece of metal plate or hardwood with a small hole drilled in it to allow the dogbone pin to pass through), try tapping the old pin out with a hammer. When the end of the pin is flush with the side of the dogbone then use a suitable nail/pin/parallel punch to drift the rest of the pin out.

You might want to try heating the dogbones to 200F - 250F first to expand the hole around the pin - remember to wear suitable gloves when handling the hot dogbones!

The new spring steel roll pins have a chamfer on the end to aid insertion and will probably need to be cut down to match the outdrive width.

Please bear in mind that this is all theory because no-one that I know of (myself included) has attempted this yet.
 
The theory sounds good. A friend of mine has a busted front CV, the pin on the dogbone side snapped off when he had a problem with the wheel locking up. He has since purchased replacements but I could experiment on the broken one.

Before I buy the little spring pins, I'll try to get the old pin out. I know it's not going to be easy to do without damaging the rest of the thing. I'll try to be careful. Once the spring pin is in, if I can get the old one out, cutting it down to the right size will be a snap with a dremel.

It would be really sweet if this works. The dogbone cups are pretty cheap it seems (at least for the storm, you can find them all over e-bay) so even if I messed one of those up trying this out it wouldn't be a big deal. I'd probably be more worried about the spring pin collapsing under the pressure; these little motors can drive a lot of torque into them very quickly.
 
cbreaker said:
I'd probably be more worried about the spring pin collapsing under the pressure; these little motors can drive a lot of torque into them very quickly.
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No worries there. The pins that I have are made of a very hard spring steel and cannot be squashed with a large pair of pliers. I'm more worried about the dogbone fracturing due to the expansion pressure of the spring pin.
 
niggle said:
No worries there. The pins that I have are made of a very hard spring steel and cannot be squashed with a large pair of pliers. I'm more worried about the dogbone fracturing due to the expansion pressure of the spring pin.
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neither should be an issue. just measure the old pin or the pin on a new dogbone to make sure you order the proper size replacement. also when you insert the pin after its in a little bit you can turn it with a pair of plyers. turn it so that the seam is facing along the shaft of the dogbone. this will prevent abnormal wear on the drive cups.

now, back to my question from the last page. is anyone aware of an aftermarket manufacture for swift parts?
 
CorradoPsi said:
now, back to my question from the last page. is anyone aware of an aftermarket manufacture for swift parts?
Click to expand...

I'm sure Cameron or Roger will chime in here if I'm wrong, but I suspect that the new shock towers that Wagnerov mentioned to you are in fact the Pro-Kit items manufactured by PRP.

The Swift is fairly new and not as well established as cars like the Storm, MBX-5 and MP7.5, consequently the third party manufacturers probably don't feel there is a big enough market for Swift parts at the moment, but with a bit of luck and a prevailing wind this could well change...
 
actually cameron said that the towers were made by a company called titan tech. however i havent been able to come up with anything on them from searching the internet. does anyone have a link to thier homepage?
 

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