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PRP Swift

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My friend wants to get into nitro rc, but he wants to get one of those 70mph shumachers, I've been trying to tell him that they are crap. I was thinking that the Swift would be pretty good for him. I was just wondering how does it do in durability compared to a MBX-5 or MP-7.5? Also, where are parts available for it on the internet? And, is the engine ok for a beginner?

Also, what engine does it have? I mean like, is it one that someone else makes, or does PRP make it?
 
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Hey guys I am a new Swift Owner and have been readingthe posts regarding the diffs and shimming. I am a bit confused. When I look at the exploded parted assembly guide I see a horizontal pin that goes thru the center diff outdrive. It appears the this pin is fits into the horizontal hole in the Sunsun gears. What I do not understand is how does the shim tighten the gear mesh since it appears this pin is doing the same job and is what causes the outdrive to spin anyway?

I would ike to understand fully what to do before I disassemble the Diff?

Also how important is doing this?

(Additional info: I purchased my Swift about early Feb, have not broken it in yet. I am thinking mine may not have been in the first batch)

Thanx in advance,
Dj
 
I'll let the other folks talk about durability, since I work for PRP. I won't say the Swift RTR s unbreakable, though! We've learned a lot of lessons, that's for sure.

The engine, we've found, is darn near perfect for the beginner. If one doesn't play with the adjustment screws before starting it for the first time, the .21 usually starts on the second or third yank....with a fully charged igniter. After that, simply make small adjustments, one at a time, when you begin to lean it out. The engine is made by a Taiwanese company called SH, they do OEM engines for a lot of other companies that sell in the U.S. www.atlashobbies.com is one shop that sells our parts online. Check out our website, www.happytimehobby.com, for other hobby shops that might be in your area.

On the diff question, the shim(s) prevents the outdrive from being pushed out when the gears make contact. Try building a diff without the shims, then see if you can move the outdrives in and out...it should have a bit of slop in it, maybe .5-1.5mm. Then put shims in behind the pin, and in front of the o-ring. You just want to make sure the outdrives are still free, but without that slop. Amazing what a difference a tenth of a millimeter can make.

If your Swift came with a clear body in addition to a painted black and silver one, it's the first run. Otherwise, it's a second production run car. There are still a few reports of loose screws in the second run, so I would definitely recommend checking your CVJ's, and remove one of the setscrews (they still have two! argh). I guess we didn't yell and spit into the phone enough.

On the other hand, I went to China two weeks ago to work on some other projects and got to check over all that they're doing for the Swift. There's about 12 new items they are working on, which will help performance and durability...from new diff cases, aluminum suspension parts, to new bigbore 3.5mm shocks!

And our monster truck is coming along just fine...got to drive it. Waaaay to fast! But I guess that's what people like! We are having a name-the-truck contest...whoever wins, gets a free monster truck! Send your submissions or other questions to [email protected] (me).

We're also working on a 1/10 nitro touring car. Designed by Americans (well, two of us at least!) from the ground up. Watch out, it will be a little bit different.
 
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Cammeron, what is the difference in your 086 RPM Pipe (Y1086) and the Y88604 pipe? Based comments you made in another thread I went to get the 086 pipe but failed to bring the part number. I got the Y88604 pipe instead. My LHS said I could return it if it was not the correct one, but before I did that I wantedd to know the differences in the two pipes. (From a performance perspective)

Thanx
 
Originally posted by xtribe00
Cammeron, what is the difference in your 086 RPM Pipe (Y1086) and the Y88604 pipe? Based comments you made in another thread I went to get the 086 pipe but failed to bring the part number. I got the Y88604 pipe instead. My LHS said I could return it if it was not the correct one, but before I did that I wantedd to know the differences in the two pipes. (From a performance perspective)

Thanx
Click to expand...

The Y1086 pipe is a high RPM pipe. The pipe you should get is the Y1053 ( high torque ) pipe.
 
Originally posted by HP Invent


The Y1086 pipe is a high RPM pipe. The pipe you should get is the Y1053 ( high torque ) pipe.
Click to expand...

Thanx HP INvent, but do you know the difference in the two pipes.

(Y1086 vs. Y88604)


Also I will take a look at the 053 Pipe. Since I have not run the engine yet can you provide any insight into the how the engine performs with the stock pipe compared to the 053 and 086 pipes. (and the Y88604 pipe in you have any info)

Just trying to get as informed as possible regard the vehicle.

Thanx
Dj
 
Originally posted by xtribe00


Thanx HP INvent, but do you know the difference in the two pipes.

(Y1086 vs. Y88604)


Also I will take a look at the 053 Pipe. Since I have not run the engine yet can you provide any insight into the how the engine performs with the stock pipe compared to the 053 and 086 pipes. (and the Y88604 pipe in you have any info)

Just trying to get as informed as possible regard the vehicle.

Thanx
Dj
Click to expand...

xtribe00: The one that comes with the swift is a high-end pipe but extremely loud cause its single chamber. The 88604 is a dual chamber pipe made for high torque. The 053 pipe is acually a mid-range pipe, but most racers use it. Hope this helps. Later.
 
I have finally broken the car in and took for a spin. It has been years since my 4WD ofroad vehicle. WOW!!! is my impression. This was a true blast. Being able to run the a the buggy in my backyard, not caring about the surface I was running (On-road vs. Off-road, is a very nice indeed. BUT, as soon as the fun was about to hit the next level, THE DARN CVJ PIN in the rear passenger location decides to take vacation. This was after I removed one of the setscrews and tightened and thread locked the remaining one. Is there an alternative to the factory pin? May one made of a different material that would sort of crimp with the set screw is tigtened down?

But all in all PRP has done a heck of a job. The fun quotient is very high for the Swift....

Xtribe
 
If you have a dremmel or small grinder, Notch the pins in the center where the set screw touches. Once you do that, reinstall the pin and ONLY 1 set screw.

Problem will be solved. Make sure you do it to ALLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLL
the pins.
 
We're getting a shipment of CVJ pins-with-notches milled into them pretty soon. We tested them at Hemet without any problems at all. Hobby shops should receive them in two weeks.
 
Originally posted by wagnerov
We're getting a shipment of CVJ pins-with-notches milled into them pretty soon. We tested them at Hemet without any problems at all. Hobby shops should receive them in two weeks.
Click to expand...

:thumbup: Any other reliability upgrades we might be able to purchase soon as well?
 
Originally posted by HP Invent


I've seen and worked on pistons/sleeves locking at TDC due to the fuel gumming overnight and inconsistant carb calibrations on new motors and slightly used motors. I've also seen interanal bearings with-in the block go bad. The bearing will still rotate, but not as smooth. I've also worked with a guy who worked on some of Barry Baker's nitro motors back in 2002 for his NTC3 and he saw me working on a customer's nitro motor cause the piston and sleeve locked up at TDC due to gumming. The first thing he looked at was the sleeve, and then he smelled the block, and he said, " Humm, let me guess, blue thunder fuel. " Keep in mind that all of the issues happened to new motors that have been broken in and slightly used motors. I've seen a previous post that blue thunder may have had a bad batch of fuel, which is totally understandable. If the fuel is working for you, then that's great :) . But, from my experience from being a manager for one of the largest hobbyshops in Northern Califnornia, i've seen noobies and experienced racers that race nitro that have had bad experiences with blue thunder; and switch to a differend brand having great success. I just don't want anybody buying a $250-$600 dollar nitro motor and ruin it due to blue thunder fuel. Now, on the flip side, I've heard some ( and I mean some ) good stories about blue thunder. But then a customer will switch to O'donnell and say, " That O'donnell fuel is the best fuel I used." Nick, what percentage of nitro are you using and are you using the regular blend or the race formula ? I'm glad that BT is working for you and other nitro users in your area. I just wish that some of my customers had more good stories about BT instead of bad stories.
Click to expand...

Sorry i havent responded in awhile but i run the 20% sport formula and have had nothing butluck with it. But i usally just run what the hobby shop has in stock and they always have blue thunder and it works fine for me and with other people. But they have o'donell but i dont know if iwant to us it because it has no color and it is hard to see if you have alot of gas left in the tank from what i have heard. But for my nexy engine maybe i will try it. Because i dont like to switch fuels thoght engines......Nick
 
Spoiler strength

Yesterday 2 of us did some serious jumps with tumbles that would and did make us kringe. We ran very hard and honestly had NO issues with the spoiler breaking during tumbles. And we DID have a few om my gawds bleep bleep bleep when in a delema.

Not only did the spoiler hold up to the abuse, nothing on 2 buggys we ran broke in our practice jumping. If parts are tight and adjusted properly, your buggys should make you be the guy to watch out for.:thumbsup:
 
hello to al swift owners!!
My brother owns a Swift for about 3 weeks and he's very pleased with it.
But during a Bash VERY HARD session, the left rear shock shaft bends ( like an L ). Does the Duratrax Titanium Shock shafts for the Axis work ???
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXPS72
or the mp7.5 ones?? any??
please feel free to tell me what are the best ones please...
Thnks
 
Body for swift?

Hey everyone! my first post here. Just bought my swift last week and love it! great buggy. I was just curious if anyone out there knows what body fits the swift buggy. From what i can see it seems the mp7.5 body is perty close but havn't had a chance to lay hands on it yet. Oh btw anyone else notice the binding in the steering where the screws on the alluminum cross bar passes under the upper arms? wonder if that will be remedied. Anyways love my swift! sorry for the long post.


D.dan


P.s. anyone know of a good track in the cali bay area?
 
Harder material outdrives just got in, but they still need to be tested before we decide to put them in production. We'll find out this weekend! They look awesome.

Titanium shock shafts may not be the answer. They may snap instead of bend. We're working on new bigbore shocks with 3.5mm shafts that will be available as an accessory item. They will be included with the "Pro" kit as well.

As far as bodies go, both Pro-Line bodies fit, although the Mugen one is a bit more snug. We're trying to narrow our own body up so that it doesn't flop around as much...it just involves changing the mold just a tad.

For the steering rack binding, you can either loosen the allen screw holding the bearings a tad, just enough to keep it from getting sloppy, or you can use really small electric motor shims to space everything up. The steering rack is too thick for one 3x6 bearing, and way too thin for two.

Thanks for everybody's patience regarding these issues. For some, it's been a trial...but at least I think we're responding to everyone a lot faster than other companies. You people are what makes the hobby go 'round, and we'll do our best to accomodate you.
 
wagnerov,

I hope to see you at the Dirt Track this weekend. It is located across from IBM down on Cottle road. Take 101 south to 85. go north on 85 and get off on Cottle and head north. Three lights down you will see the track on the left. Talk to Roger, he has been here before (if wagnerov is not Roger).

Here are some pics of the track.

http://www2.freepichosting.com/Images/421462845/0.jpg

Just replace the 0.jpg with 1.jpg - 19.jpg. This pic is a car you will reconize.

http://www2.freepichosting.com/Images/421462845/19.jpg

You will find pics of the jump and the starting grid. We have races every weekend, so you can test and tune the swift.

There is a pic of me in there. I am the bald guy standing next to the tree watching the car go off the jump and refilling my car.

Kraig
 
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My car got cannibalized by our team drivers during the last race down south at Hemet, and I haven't put it back together yet. and the engine is toast...excuses excuses! Maybe I will put humpty dumpty back together this week! The track looks awesome...I remember when you guys were just starting out a year or two ago.

-Cameron (not Roger)
 
Originally posted by GaBooh
wagnerov,

I hope to see you at the Dirt Track this weekend. It is located across from IBM down on Cottle road. Take 101 south to 85. go north on 85 and get off on Cottle and head north. Three lights down you will see the track on the left. Talk to Roger, he has been here before (if wagnerov is not Roger).

Here are some pics of the track.

http://www2.freepichosting.com/Images/421462845/0.jpg

Just replace the 0.jpg with 1.jpg - 19.jpg. This pic is a car you will reconize.

http://www2.freepichosting.com/Images/421462845/19.jpg



You will find pics of the jump and the starting grid. We have races every weekend, so you can test and tune the swift.

There is a pic of me in there. I am the bald guy standing next to the tree watching the car go off the jump and refilling my car.

Kraig
Click to expand...

Kraig: Hey, whats up. The track looks nice from the last time I went there to race with you guys. I finally got a " REAL " starter box for my buggy. Looks like the track looks all good. You guys are the best out there and I look forward to more sessions this year. Thx for the pix.
 
We are talking about becoming an offical club. I have been looking into what is required, but am unable to find any helps or how to become a club information. We figure we will need a bank account, board of directors. Behond that, we don't know what legal requirements we need. If there are any club owners out there that can give me some advise or point me in the correct direction.

[email protected]

Kraig
 

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