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PRP Swift

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If you are referring to the pins in the CVDs then what you have to do is remove one of the grub screws, If you look there will be one grub screw either side of the pin holding it in place, By removing one you are allowing the remaining grub screw to secure against the pin and hold it in using more pressure, If you used two you would have a equal ammount of pressure either side of the pin so essentially it could fall out. Once you have removed one of the grub screws take out the 1 remaining grub screw and apply a little red loctite onto the threads, Then replace the one grub screw and tighten it up. This should solve your problem.

I hear PRP are working on new revised pins with a milling in them so as the grub screw can locate into it, This would prevent the pin from turning and loosening.
 
AshleyT is totally right. Just remove one of the grub screws and tightned the other with some red lock tight. If your LHS is out of stock, you can also order them at www.atlashobbies.com or sheldon's hobbies.
 
hello

hello, to all you swift owners. had mine for a week, crashed it within 20 minutes, had to buy a new steering servo, got hitec servo hs-645mg, but what i would like to know is what kind of batteries do you use as i am using duracell which is costing a fortune when you have to throw them away after a short time, very new to this hobby as you can see 20 minutes. Ashley T where do you get your spares from, i take it your on this side of the pond.
 
Hi, Simon. Yes I live in England alright, Lancashire way. I've not had to order any spares yet but you should be able to either order parts through your local model shop OR from Schumacher direct (Just call them) - http://www.racing-cars.com. My local model shop is also supposed to be starting to stock parts for the Swift, Remember its a relatively new car so its going to take a while for shops to start stocking spares.
 
Re: hello

Originally posted by simon
hello, to all you swift owners. had mine for a week, crashed it within 20 minutes, had to buy a new steering servo, got hitec servo hs-645mg, but what i would like to know is what kind of batteries do you use as i am using duracell which is costing a fortune when you have to throw them away after a short time, very new to this hobby as you can see 20 minutes. Ashley T where do you get your spares from, i take it your on this side of the pond.

Simon: Yeah, I know how it is when you use alkaline batteries for your receiver pack. I currently have a 1150mah receiver pack made from RD logics. I also race electric so I have a charger (Novak Millinium Pro ) that can charge this rx pack. I usually charge it at .5 amps. It takes awaile, but it can last me through practice and qualifying. Before the mains, I usually re-peak my rx pack. Hope this helps.
 
Re: hello

Get any 1000 to 1200 mah hunchback battery pack. Mine is LRP. That will perfectly fit in the battery case of the swift.

Or you can also buy 4 2100 mah AA rechargable batteries but it won't give you 6 Volts the optimum voltage requirement of hi torque servos.



Originally posted by simon
hello, to all you swift owners. had mine for a week, crashed it within 20 minutes, had to buy a new steering servo, got hitec servo hs-645mg, but what i would like to know is what kind of batteries do you use as i am using duracell which is costing a fortune when you have to throw them away after a short time, very new to this hobby as you can see 20 minutes. Ashley T where do you get your spares from, i take it your on this side of the pond.
 
On the subject I would definetely get a 6v battery pack, I prefer NiMH Packs because they do not have memory, Which means you can charge them without having to dis-charge them first (Like NiCDs). I am running a Team Orion 1200 Marathon NiMH hump pack in mine, Its the 2nd I've had and they are very good, Around £20 depending where u shop.
 
Re: springs

Originally posted by asar
Are the springs in the pictures posted above from Kyosho Inferno 7.5 Kanai edition (the blue springs on the shocks)?

I've spoke with Jose Zayas today and he said that he is using the kyosho blue springs. We'll I went to a local outlaw track near my home and my swift was flying with my .21 sirio motor. I had four good tumbles with-in 3 tanks of fuel and the car was still solid. I had a front swaybar and the car seem to react better with-out it considering the track conditions we had today. Other than that, I look forward to more tuning sessions at the outlaw track I have visited. Too much fun :redbuggy:
 
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I have read in this thread somewhere that the Swift is a light buggy. Anyone know how much it weighs? Want to compare it to the Storm.
 
Got a swift last december and got so frustrated with repairs and some weak parts. I got a Kanai 3 two weeks ago and test run it this week. This is my observation.

The swift is much easier to drive than the Kanai 3.
The only draw back are the weak links and constant repairs needed. The Kanai 3 although more difficult in handling, just keeps going tank after tank after tank.

Weak links that I hope to see addressed by PRP soon are
1. CVJ's (pin problem)
2. diff gears (skips and locks even after shimming)
3. diff outdrives (wears out fast)
4. Clutch shoe and pins ( will last just about a gallon)
5. Clutch bell (13 T) wears out easily
6. Springs (too soft)
7. Shock pistons ( holes too big)
8. Wings (too britle)
 
Originally posted by asar
Got a swift last december and got so frustrated with repairs and some weak parts. I got a Kanai 3 two weeks ago and test run it this week. This is my observation.

The swift is much easier to drive than the Kanai 3.
The only draw back are the weak links and constant repairs needed. The Kanai 3 although more difficult in handling, just keeps going tank after tank after tank.

Weak links that I hope to see addressed by PRP soon are
1. CVJ's (pin problem)
2. diff gears (skips and locks even after shimming)
3. diff outdrives (wears out fast)
4. Clutch shoe and pins ( will last just about a gallon)
5. Clutch bell (13 T) wears out easily
6. Springs (too soft)
7. Shock pistons ( holes too big)
8. Wings (too britle)

I'm sure that all of these issues have been addressed. There are alternatives for the issues mention above:

1) CVJ's: They now have a pin that has been machined out for the set-pin to sit in. You can also remove one set-screw from the barrel unit and lock tight the other.

2) I just shimmed the large and small bevel gears. So far, i've ran a P5 motor and a now I have a sirio .21 turbo motor. I have a buddy of mine that has the same gears that he shimmed and he's gears are going strong. I know that he's gonna change out the gears soon cause we talked about it last night. The motor he has in his car is the kanai sirio.

3) I'm gonna try a different outdrive from another car and see what happens. I know from previous post that they are testing hardened outdrives. We'll have to wait and see what happens.

4) Alternative: Use mugen grey clutch shoes. I have those and i've replaced them twice with-in 2-3 gallons of fuel used.

5) I've heard racers use other manufacture clutch bells. I have gone through 2 of them and that's due to improperly gear meshing on my part.

6 & 7) Change out the springs and pistons. Mugen grays or kyosho lite blues are good. Use 1.3mm pistons.

8) I've gone through 2 wings cause i didn't know how to jump doubles and triples and I kept casing the last jump :( Yeah, the wings are pretty brittle. I've seen other swifts use other wings. I'm gonna have to find out how they did that :)

Oh, I forgot, it's friday :duff: :duff: :burp:
Hey Mike, come and join me :)
 
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Originally posted by HP Invent


I'm sure that all of these issues have been addressed. There are alternatives for the issues mention above:

1) CVJ's: They now have a pin that has been machined out for the set-pin to sit in. You can also remove one set-screw from the barrel unit and lock tight the other.

- Aside from the grub screw problem which can be resolved by removing one screw, the other pin where the outdrive sits also loosens and fall off in time.

2) I just shimmed the large and small bevel gears. So far, i've ran a P5 motor and a now I have a sirio .21 turbo motor. I have a buddy of mine that has the same gears that he shimmed and he's gears are going strong. I know that he's gonna change out the gears soon cause we talked about it last night. The motor he has in his car is the kanai sirio.

- PRP said they have improved the gears. But is is already out in the market?

3) I'm gonna try a different outdrive from another car and see what happens. I know from previous post that they are testing hardened outdrives. We'll have to wait and see what happens.

- If anyone knows what outdrive from other buggies will fit the swift diff housing and gears i'll be getting it in a flash. That's what I've been waiting for and what has kept my buggy on pits for weeks now.

4) Alternative: Use mugen grey clutch shoes. I have those and i've replaced them twice with-in 2-3 gallons of fuel used.

- Yes. I've replaced mine with Kyosho. Ofna's shoe also fits. Comparing their shoe with the one on stock of Swift pale in quality difference

5) I've heard racers use other manufacture clutch bells. I have gone through 2 of them and that's due to improperly gear meshing on my part.

- Some said 14T pinion are easier to drive... i guess i'll be tring that.
 
Oh, I forgot, it's friday :duff: :duff: :burp:
Hey Mike, come and join me :) [/B][/QUOTE]

I missed the Friday guzzle. Grrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr

It's Saturday now,,,, Let's guzzle. I will be at KZ tomorrow if you wish to pop in.

I hope you all catch some VD...... heh heh heh Valentins Day luv.

We can :lurk: and we can :beer: and we can :marshall: and we can just a fun time.
 
There's a test/review in the April 04 issue in R/C Car magazine. Get your copies now :cheers:
 
FYI,

If you run hard and jump, do 2 things.

1. Add some foam in the battery box. This helps any movement of your batteries and connectors while jumping/racing.
2. Zip tie the batteries in the holder if you use replacables/rechargables.

My buggy was awesome again today at the track.

Hey Joe Joe, :wedgie: You get a wedgie. Glad you ran yours today.
 
I'd have to say the buggy ran nice. Using only one set screw on the cvd does the job. I got lazy and didn't take the ones out on the drive shafts and that's what got me today. Going to a rechargable 6v battery pack will end that problem and give the steering servo a lil more power.

You like fishing mikey? :trout:
 
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I saw 4 swifts on the track today. I can tell by our original paint jobs:naughty: Yea it was a good day.
I've got some bait for your next fishing trip also
:horsecrap :whistle:
 
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