agreed thats on the stand method,,,,,,,, for in car-break-in, the 25 minute method is the way,, I've done this on the last couple of motors and it can't be disputed. Used it on the last WS711 and modified 421b ,, the Ws11 has 9 gallons through it and it still runs like a raped ape, the top motor, well that's at a gallon and I never thought I'd say this but it's to much motor all over, I don't know what they did to this but it's to damn much motor, with your P5 I think you'd shat yourself if you do this to run it in,, the couple Jp' P5's that I've seen run-in with this method are serious balzack swingin ox's.
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sorry if this is reposted, or if someone else has already posted this info, I use it and it works very well. I do not reccommend ANYTHING unless it has shown to be a good product or means to make a product better. This has impressed me, so now it's a ritual, don't get ansy it's well worth it to follow through with this method.. a couple notes after to make it a little more complete...
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ENGINE BREAK-IN LIKE THE PROS
This was copied from a post by STEPHEN BESS on the "Starting Grid" message board as he tried to help another member get more life and performance out of his OS motor. This break-in method should apply to virtually any ABC hobby nitro engine (except for ringed engines).
If you are still idling at least a tank through during break-in, you're using the old-school accepted method (still works well for some!) but it's not the method that the top engine guys (Ron Paris, Dennis Richey, Rody Roem, Michael Salven are just a few I've spoken personally with about this) recommend anymore.
From the very 1st time you start your engine, plop the car on the ground & begin running it in a parking lot in 2-3 minute intervals, tuned only *slightly rich* getting the temps up in the 200F range on a normal day. Every 2-3 minutes, shut the engine down & let it cool completely with the piston at BDC, and then fire it back up; continue this cycle until you've run 15 min or so, and then bump up to 3-4 minute intervals. Vary the RPM and don't be afraid to get the temps in the 200's. What you want is heat cycling of the components without the incredible stress that comes with breaking an engine in when it's overly rich & cold. After cycling the engine in this mannerfor about 20-25 total minutes, it'll be ready for the track and race tuning. I realize this method goes against the old-school "idle on the box" routine, but you'll be amazed once you've completed this break-in routine, your OS will still have amazing pinch w/out sticking at the top AND your OS's compression will last far longer than it will with the "old school" method.
You say you run the engine at "factory settings" for the first FIVE tanks? That alone causes lots of stress, as the factory OS settings are very rich on every OS I've ever owned or tuned. The piston & sleeve haven't expanded to operating temps, and every time the engine turns over, the piston slams into the pinch zone at TDC. The not-so-surprising result can be a cracked con-rod at the crank pin--that's where the majority of the stresses occur as the engine turns over. I've only heard of about 6-8 OS engines breaking con-rods, and they're ALWAYS during the first gallon...and almost every time it's because the guys have performed the break-in procedure you described. Doesn't seem like a mystery as to why it's happening. Drawing out the break-in routine really stresses the engine & actually wears away compression along the way. This method I've outlined will feel weird at every step, but after you try it once, you'll notice a big difference in your engine's performance & lifespan.
Hope this helps; give this break-in method a shot--you have nothing to gain except longer life & more power
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A couple details I would add to this to make it more complete is use a heat gun or hair dryer pointed directly down the center of the plug channel and if possible one on the side to heat the case up as well, prior to firing your motor EVERY time you are running or adding to your "break-in" time torwards your 25 minute period.
Use this tool to get it to the desired 180-200 degrees before you even start it.
Also to keep the temps at that 190-200 range use a simple aluminum-tape & cardboard shroud that covers the entire head except the top button area, run accordingly....
at the end of the cycling, I have had to cover the top of the head also.
Between cycles make sure you let it cool ALL the way down, usually about 20-30 minutes for safety. Pull the plug and make sure the crank is at bottom dead center, and let chill.
For Rb/Novarossi/hand/ team modified based breaks ins, I total the time at 35 minutes(instead of 25) for my own comfort, and because i'm a stickler for making sure things are done correctly, so my relaxation time is race days..
anyways hope this new online novel helps look through chapter 3 and 4 for tips and tricks,, *grin*
by the way if you ever have any extra JpP5's just drop me a line.
Lates!!
-Will-
www.WilzWerx.com
Originally posted by HP Invent
Have you guys ever heard of a " engine break-in " procedure where it requires you to run your engine at WOT ( wide open throttle ) at a very very rich settings ? RB concepts has a method for this and its done by Rody ( RB's grand master of nitro engines ). I'm gonna try it tommorrow on my new JP .21 P5 motor. :8-0: :jet:
=devil
