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PRP Swift

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For some reason RCNT does not allow links that long I guess. Here's the link take out the space after www and replace it with a period:
http://www ***********/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=420_328&products_id=7779&PHPSESSID=32acd09019ec487d4b48a7ea79239b13

WTF!!!!!!

Try again

http://www.***********/

catalog/product_info.php?cPath=420_328&products_id=7779&PHPSESSID=32acd09019ec487d4b48a7ea79239b13
 
I'd like to post a copy of a post on my local rc forum.

Promise not to laugh.

###################

Ran the Swift this affy 'cause I wanted to.

Just tried some of that old 10% I originally put in, it's at least 5 years old.

It wouldn't run, not even fire so I emptied it out and cleaned up, but the fuel that did get on my hands was very cold (nitro) and smelled OK.

Putting everything away I just wanted to dry the plug so put a battery in the glow igniter (straight off the charger), clipped it on, pulled the starter and it immediately fired up in the spare bedroom!

Stopped it, refuelled, outside again and put a tank of 5 year old fuel through.

It ran fine (but nowhere near as quick as 16% - wonder what 20% would be like )

When's the next meeting dudes?

Oh, just a side note, remember the 1st time I brought the Swift down and it wouldn't fire all evening and we came to the conclusion that the reddy coloured fuel was knackered to say the least, well I dug that bottle out too and opened it and smelled it - FLOOR CLEANER!!!

I just had to laugh....

#############



There's a moral in there somewhere, but you gotta laugh.
 
I'm totally blown away here.

3rd try:
wwwDOTrcmartDOTcom/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=420_328&products_id=7779&PHPSESSID=32acd09019ec487d4b48a7ea79239b13
then add the rest starting with catalog
 
They are selling the swift for $375.

Originally posted by El Pirata
I'm totally blown away here.

3rd try:
wwwDOTrcmartDOTcom/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=420_328&products_id=7779&PHPSESSID=32acd09019ec487d4b48a7ea79239b13
then add the rest starting with catalog
Click to expand...
That one does work, just replace the words DOT with an actual .
 
Last edited:
Originally posted by WA2FAST


How about the shocks? What is the secret? What do you guys do to your shocks? Please help me here... this is definitely my next thing on the list that needs to be done. Help please.
Click to expand...



Here is the best set up I have found with the shocks.. Although it may differ to your driving style.. All Kyosho parts and part #'s.. All parts are a PERFECT fit, but the only thing you have to do is drill a bigger hole in the shock pistons center hole where the shock shaft mounts to the piston..

1. Kyosho Front Spring Short Blue Soft - IFW032BL

2. Kyosho Rear Spring Long Blue Soft - IFW033BL

3. Kyosho Diaphragm Set - BSW032

4. Kyosho Shock Piston 1.3mm 2-Hole - IFW019 ( all four shocks )

5. Kyosho Shock Boots - BSW078


A good start for oil is " LOSI " oil 40wt in the front and 35wt in the rear.. ( the track I raced on this past weekend I ended up with 40wt in the front and 37 1/2 in the rear )


Hope this helps
 
Thanx guys... I'll get those parts and let you know how it goes. Thank you again.
 
Originally posted by HP Invent

As for the shocks, I have GS 1.3mm pistons. Weight is set at 30front/25rear. I also changed out the bladder to a kyosho black bladder. Its a little thicker than the stock ones that come with the kit. That's it, no secret :shy:
Click to expand...

Do the GS pistons need the centre hole enlarging to fit the Swift shock shafts?

What about Mugen 1.3mm pistons, anyone tried those?
 
My LHS has everything in stock for the shocks except for the shock boots (does someone have a pic of this?... really would like to see) and they only have one set of pistons in stock. I am going to run up there and pick all of that up, so I should be in good shape. I'll let ya' all know how it goes, thanx again.
 
Hey dude, don't you find top end is down with those tarmac tyres on?

The reason I ask is because they have a much lower profile than offroad tyres.

Have you geared her up?

She would probably benefit greatly with about 7° of caster too!
 
Originally posted by WA2FAST
My LHS has everything in stock for the shocks except for the shock boots (does someone have a pic of this?... really would like to see) and they only have one set of pistons in stock. I am going to run up there and pick all of that up, so I should be in good shape. I'll let ya' all know how it goes, thanx again.
Click to expand...


Well my LHS had the Mugen and Kyosho boots in stock.. I tryed both boots and the Kyosho fit the best.. I know PRP has some available also..


Here is a pic of the Kyosho boots.. They just lock onto the shock body and the spring retainer holds the bottom of the boot from moving.. They protect the shock shaft really well..


kyoc5689_large.jpg


Originally posted by WA2FAST
My LHS has everything in stock for the shocks except for the shock boots (does someone have a pic of this?... really would like to see) and they only have one set of pistons in stock. I am going to run up there and pick all of that up, so I should be in good shape. I'll let ya' all know how it goes, thanx again.
Click to expand...


Here are pics of the rest of the stuff just to give ya an idea..


kyoc3052_large.jpg


kyoc3054_large.jpg


kyoc3307_large.jpg


kyoc5683_large.jpg



Thats everything you need..


One other tip you might wanna do while you have the shocks all apart is put Associated Green Slime between the shock seals and spacers in the bottom of the shock.. It'll help seal up the shock and help prevent leaking..
9.jpg
 
Originally posted by niggle


Do the GS pistons need the centre hole enlarging to fit the Swift shock shafts?

What about Mugen 1.3mm pistons, anyone tried those?
Click to expand...

Yes, both GS and mugen pistons have to be enlarged a little. I just used my sharp body reamer to open them up.
 
Originally posted by Gixer Jay
One other tip you might wanna do while you have the shocks all apart is put Associated Green Slime between the shock seals and spacers in the bottom of the shock.. It'll help seal up the shock and help prevent leaking..
Click to expand...

Very useful!

I don't suppose that the Associated stuff is similar to the Green Slime that you can get to seal punctures in bicycle inner tubes?
 
Yes, top end is down a little, but they are actually a lot closer in size to the off road tires than they look in the pictures.

The diaphrams that they gave me are part number IFW140-04. Is this right, or did I get the wrong part here... I totally forgot to take up the part numbers with me when I went, so I just went off of what I remembered and what they said.

I still need to go back for one set of shock pistons and the boots anyway... do I need to add something to the order list?

They are labled "Shock Bushing" on the package... and on the Kyosho site (http://www.gpmd.com/cgi-bin/wgpprt100p?&I=KYOC0562) they are called "Kyosho Pressure Rubber"... help at all? I sure hope they are right... cause I really want to rebuild at least my rear shocks today considering I have all of the parts to do 2 shocks.
 
WA2FAST:

I checked on TOWER'S web site and from the info I got off of there the diaphrams are for the same shock.. Not sure what the difference is, but they should work.. Just make sure they fit snug inside the shock cap and that there is no play or loosness when the diaphram is installed.. You should be good to go..

Let me know how it all works out for ya..


As for other items needed.. You might wanna try the MBX-4 front upper arms ( part # C0154 ).. With those arms you can dial in more steering by taking out caster.. I tryed the stock front arms, but the car was pushing on the surface I was running on.. You may be ok with the stock arms for your driving, but you can just try it.. I personally like a lot of steering in my cars, but I can wheel the car pretty good without oversteering.. It just takes a smooth steady hand.. You just have to set up your car to your driving style..


If you have already shimmed the diffs and took care of your universals you should be dialed.. I'm gonna try one of those GS Storm front bumpers next week ( cause they had to order it ) so I'll let you know how it does on the track.. I know the stock bumper digs in like a snow plow!!



NIGGLE:

I know the slime looks the same, but I have no idea..
 
Last edited:
Hey Guys, Listen I broke my engine in that the Swift came with 4 tanks of 20% blue thunder race formula. The car screams plenty of blue smoke and oil coming out the pipe, when you get on the throttle from a dead stop still sluggish from running rich. I ran a couple full throttle passes up my drive and the temp reaches 260 but when i bring it to a full stop temp goes down to 200. I'm plannig on racing with this motor at my local track and was wondering how hot does this motor get. Like I said plenty of fuel and oil out the pipe can't go much richer. How can I tell if low speed is set properly never touched it yet. Thanks...
 
Originally posted by gscoobydoo2
Hey Guys, Listen I broke my engine in that the Swift came with 4 tanks of 20% blue thunder race formula. The car screams plenty of blue smoke and oil coming out the pipe, when you get on the throttle from a dead stop still sluggish from running rich. I ran a couple full throttle passes up my drive and the temp reaches 260 but when i bring it to a full stop temp goes down to 200. I'm plannig on racing with this motor at my local track and was wondering how hot does this motor get. Like I said plenty of fuel and oil out the pipe can't go much richer. How can I tell if low speed is set properly never touched it yet. Thanks...
Click to expand...

scooby: Lean out the bottom at 1 hour increments and richen the top the same way. You always have to give in order to receive. In this case, your giving up a little high end, but your gaining torque on the bottom. Do this until your throttle response feels crisp and snappy.
 
HP, realistically what temp should I be seeing while racing with this motor seems capable on a club level race. Thanks
 

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