Project; Maroon

[Doom!]

Man, that sucks when you've got it all tricked out, but the performance sucks. Looks great, hope you can find that sweet spot.

 

[CreepyQuarryCrawler]

Man, that sucks when you've got it all tricked out, but the performance sucks. Looks great, hope you can find that sweet spot.

Thanks Doom.

I need to take a pause from it, but I'll go back with fresh eyes and fresh shims next week. Hopefully get it dialed.

I'm kicking myself for not going with the Kyosho U Joints. I didn't check my LHS first and just ordered them from a different vendor. Not only were they more expensive, but now I have questions about if the fitment would be different.

No going back now...

 

[Spksh]

Hate that feeling, sorry man. A night's sleep and fresh eyes hopefully helps.

 

[CreepyQuarryCrawler]

Hate that feeling, sorry man. A night's sleep and fresh eyes hopefully helps.

Thanks! And no doubt, those always help!

I have been doing a lot of reading about these issues and it seems to be a problem with these Mini Z 4x4's.

To improve the steering torque you either swap out all the electronics or you gut a servo and solder directly to the internal components to retain the ESC.
Swapping in a different servo is also physically tricky due to the lack of a separate mount and battery tray integration.

I'm still in the researching phase, but I ultimately don't know what I'm going to do yet.

It's so difficult to want to improve something, but feeling like you're going in circles.

For the cost of all the upgrades I could have picked up a SCX30 and have been further a head LOL

 

[CreepyQuarryCrawler]

Today I went by the LHS to grab some shims, it's time to see if I can correct the issues I have introduced into the steering.

So in there is where I needed to place the shim. It was easiest just to pull out the bearing from the face and slide the whole thing back together.

The results are mixed. Those are probably just a bit thick, but I just eased the screws off on the bearing face and that allowed for free movement.

Here's the videos I shot going over it and then showing the results.

I dunno folks... I still feel frustrated.
I wish Kyosho made a complete drop in setup to replace the servo and battery tray.

I have the STL files for a servo mount along with a servo picked out, I am just not keen on actually cutting this thing up.

Perhaps I can remove the whole battery tray and servo as one piece, replacing the tray with something different entirely?

We're in so deep now LOL

EDIT - I forgot to mention I tightened the servo saver a smidge. I got the tiniest of turns out of the screw.

 

[CertifiedMike]

I found this...

https://furitek.com/collections/min...ital-servo-controller-for-kyosho-mini-z-servo

It fixes your wiring issue. I read that there are 3dprint 'regular' servo mounts avail but I din't know about that stuff so I have no good links.

It looks to me like the servo motor is dying from use with the heavy tires.

Are your endpoints set on your radio? I bet that would heat up the servo quickly!

Anyways, I bet you can use that adapter to get good steering back. a stronger servo should get that truck rocking!

The ujoint center pin and the king pins need to be lined up.
Once it is shimmed correctly, theres not much more to do unless the joints are binding when you turn.
If the pins line up and the shafts still bind, the shafts could be a problem too. Aftermarket isn't always bad.

 

[CreepyQuarryCrawler]

It looks to me like the servo motor is dying from use with the heavy tires.

Yeah, it's definitely unable to cope with the weight, footprint and traction

Are your endpoints set on your radio? I bet that would heat up the servo quickly!

Yup, I backed off the D/R just a smidge

Once it is shimmed correctly, theres not much more to do unless the joints are binding when you turn.
If the pins line up and the shafts still bind, the shafts could be a problem too. Aftermarket isn't always bad.

The entire center shaft and u joints all rotate together up front. I believe the shims are just a little to big so instead of just filling the gap they pushed the bearings out about 1/2 a mill.
Just backing the pressure off the screws was enough to keep it turning smooth.

I think we've gone as far as we can go with stock electronics, it's time to change everything out.
I am pretty sure I have a Furitek Lizard around somewhere, I'll get a harness to be able to connect the brushed motor too it.

If I do that I can use batteries I have and it really opens the door to what servo I can use. I can also remove the whole tray and servo as one piece, preserving those so it could always go back.

So that just leaves one thing.. more parts LOL

 

[CreepyQuarryCrawler]

Finally have ALL the stuff to move this build forward!!

We were waiting for the servo mount/battery tray but it's here now.

Let's gut it

The power wires are soldered to the 2-1 but the servo uses a plug. I didn't want to have to disassemble the chassis further so I just depinned the harness and put it back together.

With everything out I can see a clear path forward.

I'm going to reuse the lower half of the 2-1 case as it is the chassis brace but it also will double as an electronics tray for something.

While putting things together I noticed this servo mount was...not ideal but was working out. I selected it because it seemed like the best option; no cutting factory tray, integrated battery tray.

I think I'm going to reinforce the servo tabs once the truck is done.

I was scared to break it so I warmed it up before I forced the servo in, not sure why it's so tight and the angle of the servo is ever so slightly off.

So now we have a nice blank sheet for which to start laying things back in.

First up is soldering bullets on to the motor and shortening up the battery harness.

Once I get the electronics in I'll post another photo.

 

[CreepyQuarryCrawler]

Holy smokes, my first official 1/24 - 1/27th scale build almost completed!!!

Early testing after installing & configurating everything;

https://imgur.com/a/oGRFP97

Jesus did this thing wake up!!!
It genuinely feels like a completely different truck!

Only things missing are a piece of Velcro for a properly sized battery and getting the lights functional again but she runs and drives!

Unfortunately I have to wait a bit for that properly sized battery, they're on backorder.

Thinking of pulling a @Doom! & putting a nail through the other two cells

Also ordered what I feel will be one of the last few upgrades for the truck; aluminum front tie bar by Yeah Racing.

That should take care of the last bit of flex induced slop in the front.

 

[CreepyQuarryCrawler]

Shot a project video for the 4RUNNER.
I am so impressed and happy with how this came out. What a mental shift with this truck compared to a month or two ago. So glad I didn't give up on it.

Here's a sneak peak;

https://imgur.com/a/dQbtWDg

 

[CreepyQuarryCrawler]

Took her out on Sunday to Mile High Crawl Center and ran it on the 30 course.

I am not a big fan of this course. I think if space and time allows I would like to replicate it but smooth it out a bit; there are so many lumps in the foam it genuinely makes it frustrating to drive around at times.

The truck was a big improvement over last time, but it needs a little more dialing in. Having some dampening would help a lot, the weight shifts so fast it can really mess with traction.

Check it out, tell me what you think

 

[CertifiedMike]

Took her out on Sunday to Mile High Crawl Center and ran it on the 30 course.

I am not a big fan of this course. I think if space and time allows I would like to replicate it but smooth it out a bit; there are so many lumps in the foam it genuinely makes it frustrating to drive around at times.

The truck was a big improvement over last time, but it needs a little more dialing in. Having some dampening would help a lot, the weight shifts so fast it can really mess with traction.

Check it out, tell me what you think

Almost looks like taller spur/smaller pinion would be a good idea to help slow it doen some.

It looks much better than before! Turning looks pretty good!

 

[CreepyQuarryCrawler]

Almost looks like taller spur/smaller pinion would be a good idea to help slow it doen some.

It looks much better than before! Turning looks pretty good!

Are you saying 3s is maybe a bit much

It could probably use a bit more expo on the throttle to soften it more. I did blip it a few times for show on the "flat".

I have some 2s packs that might fit! I order them for some Charisma cars that I no longer own. They were a smidge too big for those chassis, maybe they serve a new purpose?

The steering! Holy moly what an improvement, right? I'm excited to get that aluminum link in there to finish that off.

Looking at how it drove and what I have in available parts; I have these 1" brass rings that I'm not using. One single pair.

I'm tempted to put them in the front to really plant it down, but the rear is already acting pretty light?

So, do I deploy them there?

 

[CertifiedMike]

Are you saying 3s is maybe a bit much

It could probably use a bit more expo on the throttle to soften it more. I did blip it a few times for show on the "flat".

I have some 2s packs that might fit! I order them for some Charisma cars that I no longer own. They were a smidge too big for those chassis, maybe they serve a new purpose?

The steering! Holy moly what an improvement, right? I'm excited to get that aluminum link in there to finish that off.

Looking at how it drove and what I have in available parts; I have these 1" brass rings that I'm not using. One single pair.

I'm tempted to put them in the front to really plant it down, but the rear is already acting pretty light?

So, do I deploy them there?

I am watching and learning as I go here! I am only guessing at my 'suggestions'.
I thought the rear looked light in that last shot when you saved it from a front roll.
The way most of these guys talk, it seems like trial and error is all part of the fun.
Try mounting them on the easiest lication to install first. See how it goes.

I might need to buy one of these trucks some day.
The tiny hardware holds me back from most of the smaller RCs.

I love that you're making this rig 'capable'.

 

[CreepyQuarryCrawler]

I am watching and learning as I go here! I am only guessing at my 'suggestions'.
I thought the rear looked light in that last shot when you saved it from a front roll.
The way most of these guys talk, it seems like trial and error is all part of the fun.
Try mounting them on the easiest lication to install first. See how it goes.

I might need to buy one of these trucks some day.
The tiny hardware holds me back from most of the smaller RCs.

I love that you're making this rig 'capable'.

Thanks for the compliment!

I agree and feel the same way; It's really light for trailing. I have the brass axle caps in the rear but it could use a bit more weight, for sure.

I just like to ask to gather opinions or get conversations going

There isn't necessarily a difference in disassembling the front or rear but I'll take a set a part and give it a shot

Next weekends the comp and then it's closed until next winter so I'll have to find new ways to challenge it.

 

[CertifiedMike]

I just like to ask to gather opinions or get conversations going

I see how you are!

Good luck at the comp!

 

[CreepyQuarryCrawler]

Good luck at the comp!

Thanks buddy!

I'm going to try and keep myself in check so I don't get frustrated and start driving like they're bashers!

 

[CreepyQuarryCrawler]

So excited to finally get this steering link in.

Annndd that didn't last long.

I'll just bag this up for now. Good stuff

 

[Doom!]

POOP! Sorry, that is frustrating as all get out.

 

[CreepyQuarryCrawler]

POOP! Sorry, that is frustrating as all get out.

Not your fault, but yeah. I was in disbelief it happened. It has genuinely fought the upgrades lol.

It apparently has Big Stock energy and hates being dressed up.

I even backed the screw out slightly so it felt good before proceeding forward. Then suddenly while tightening, it snapped without warning.

I think I have a spare ball stud from when I swapped the stock servo out. I'll use it to repair the truck by installing the plastic steering link back in.

The evening started out well, I began by taking the rear tires and disassembling the bead locks so I can install a brass ring in them.

Once I have it reassembled I'll see what that did to the weights.