Procharger and Intercooler installed on my 392 T/A. 700HP!

[TRAT]

I gaped my anal rings it that didn’t make me faster

 

[TRAT]

Just saying

 

[Greywolf74]

I asked my performace shop guy about just adjusting the ring gap and he told me sure you could do that but his argument was if you're gonna tear the engine down anyway to take the pistons out then might as well rebuild with forged internals. I think thats pretty sound logic.

 

[Greywolf74]

I gaped my anal rings it that didn’t make me faster

LMAO, you crazy as hell

 

[More_Power]

richard holdener Big Bang engine series on YouTube. Engines pulled from the junk yard. Used stock pistons, rods, crank. 29 psi of boost or more and sent it on the engine dyno. The purpose of these tests was to actually find out how much stock rotating assembly could take. The takeaway; ring gap and tuning will kill an engine or help it survive. Any spark nock at this level on stock parts will most likely kill the motor. Fuel curves, boost ramping, and timing tables HAVE to be perfect. BUT, the pistons, rods, and crank survived, and in fact have now been used in other test builds. Yes, they will survive at this power level as long as ring gap and PCM/ECM tuning is perfect

 

[More_Power]

He makes a valid point. My point was it’s factually false that stock internals can’t handle big power. Now if you had a super cheap motor on a stand. It would make sense to ring gap it and fresh bearings and seals in it. But to take the motor out of the car just to gap the rings is dumb.
Now throwing a set of cams, heads, intake manifold will make a big improvement to where she’s at now. Also giving it methanol injection pre pro charger and converting the fuel system to E85 will net more power as well.

 

[Greywolf74]

I plan on doing cam and long tubes when I rebuild the engine one of these days.

What do you think about boring it out to a 426 when I rebuild the engine? good idea or bad?

 

[More_Power]

Your engine comes stock with forged aluminum pistons, FYI.

Let me start by saying I have limited experience with Chrysler engines. I’m an LS guru and diesel builder. From the info I can come up with, I don’t think you have enough material in the cylinder liners to straight bore it that much. Currently your at 4.05” bore and a 3.724” stroke. That’s not a bad thing though. With a larger compressor, your going to get more air flow. Also going with a larger crank pulley for the supercharger and/or a smaller supercharger pulley, your going to increase boost/air flow. The problem with a centrifugal supercharger is it takes more impeller rpm to make boost. Think of it as a belt driven turbo. Where as a positive displacement supercharger, boost is directly dependent on engine rpm. This is why the CTSV, ZL1, and the hellcat make so much low end torque with less displacement; all these engines are 6.2S.

if your planning on pulling the engine, I would just go with the best set of aftermarket heads you can get, then have them hand ported and polished, port match the exhaust and intake, bump up compression, and ether get an F1-A or a TVS2900 or TVS2650 positive displacement supercharger. 1 7/8” primary long tube headers, methanol injection pre supercharger, big throttle body, and E85 fuel system. Maybe spring for I beam connecting rods. At that point, tuning depending, 1K whp should be easily doable.