Possible VERY bad engine problems

[Cupooterluvr]

Well, I finally got my car running--for about 2 minutes. I took it through some snow and it got stuck, so I had to brake it to turn it off. That didn't work, which meant the clutch is working (which is good).

The bad news is, it just suddenly got REALLY easy to pull the cord. I read about dust in the engine, so I'm afraid to try to start it again until I know what's wrong.

I got it tuned just right on the high end needle, fairly well on low end. Like I said, I'm afraid that I might have gotten dust in it.

The point of this thread is to ask for the best way to check the engine for dust, other than taking out the plug and looking. I did it, there doesn't seem to be any dust on the plug. A very bad sign though is that if I would pull the cord until it got harder to pull(indicating a compression stroke in the cylinder), I could hear a faint hissing from the exhaust, as if some sort of dust or dirt was wearing the piston enough to let air by. Is this normal? I was running it in about 35 degree weather outside.

I was thinking of pulling the carb off to look at the crankshaft. If there's scratches on there, I know what's wrong. But, I need to know how to PROPERLY detach the carb from the engine. Also, when this happened, it still had fuel in it, so there's going to be leftover fuel in the carb or crankcase.

I really need someone to tell me about this, I don't want to have to order another engine cuz I screwed up.

 

[jon2]

What makes you think taking the carb is the problem?

The pullstart and one way bearing may just need some cleaning with some Denatured Alcohol. This is common for pullstart mills.

What makes you think you got dust in it? Did you run it without the air filter? Dirty one maybe?

 

[Cupooterluvr]

"What makes you think you got dust in it? Did you run it without the air filter? Dirty one maybe?"


No, but it gets pretty dusty in KS. You can never be too careful, I just want to know how to take off the carb so I can check for dirt or scratches on the crank before I run it again. I'm fairly certain the one-way wasn't slipping because the engine would turn every time I pulled, though I could be wrong.

What's with the exhaust hissing, though? That's what's really scaring me. I know it didn't do that before. The engine was SO easy to pull, that's why I stopped. It also wouldn't stay running for more than half a second after it turned over. Will not getting all the fuel out of the engine do this? I might have left some in it after my last run two weeks ago.

 

[jon2]

"What makes you think you got dust in it? Did you run it without the air filter? Dirty one maybe?"


No, but it gets pretty dusty in KS. You can never be too careful, I just want to know how to take off the carb so I can check for dirt or scratches on the crank before I run it again. I'm fairly certain the one-way wasn't slipping because the engine would turn every time I pulled, though I could be wrong.

What's with the exhaust hissing, though? That's what's really scaring me. I know it didn't do that before. The engine was SO easy to pull, that's why I stopped. It also wouldn't stay running for more than half a second after it turned over. Will not getting all the fuel out of the engine do this? I might have left some in it after my last run two weeks ago.

The hissing could be fuel boiling at the carb or fuel leaking for the glo plug. Was it snug?

 

[Cupooterluvr]

As snug as I was willing to make it without stripping. The hissing was coming from the exhaust.

 

[Bryson]

Just take the head off the mill. Its not that hard, use the tools that came with the thing and undo the (i think 6) alen heads on there. That would be the fastest way to look into you mill. And if you need to pull the pullstarter just pull the motor. I'm assuming you know how to do this seeing how you put a pullstart on. But to me it sounds like a oneway berring went out. Its simple fix. Just my 2 cents!

Bryson

 

[Cupooterluvr]

K, Thanks. Do you know how to take a carb off though?

 

[sweetdiesel]

On the carb neck there is a pinch bolt that you loosen to remove the carb.

 

[Bryson]

Take the air filter off. Look on the side of your mill, you will see a little nut. Simply use the wrench or even a pair of pliars and untighten it. Now the carb will be loos and you should be able to pull it out. Its alot easer with the motor out of the car and that will give you more light to see down in the case. Trust me on this one i know the trx mill like the back of my hand lol.

 

[Cupooterluvr]

Thanks, but I'm so friggin screwed now that I might as well not bother. I took the cooling head off to look at the piston. It turns out that all I was hearing was fuel hissing up through the intake.

What screwed me is the screw. I was putting it back on, then I went to tighten the last screw in the "X" pattern. I got it tight... then it stripped. Now, I don't even think I can run it at all, since I'm missing a screw. What sucks is that it's not the screw's threads that stripped-- it's my engine's threads. Is there any way to inexpensively repair this?

Pics here, youtube video with the hissing sound recorded.

[ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rhfBzdIwrgc"]YouTube - Piston noise[/ame]

 

[Bryson]

What kinda truck/mill is that anyway. I dont get how you tightend it that tight.

Bryson

 

[Cupooterluvr]

A "Vertex" (I think, I don't know for sure) vx-18 .18 cxp. I don't get how I got it that tight either, I was tightening it by hand. Metal doesn't usually strip, especially the screw hole. All I know is that now I've got a part on the way that I can't use till I get my mill fixed.

EDIT:

here's my engine, only mine has a black head:

http://www.treasuretrovetoys.com.au/prod8.htm

 

[Bryson]

I can't say I've seen one of those before. If you got some good usage out of it at least you can say you got your mones worth. Good luck!

Bryson

 

[Cupooterluvr]

I didn't hardly get any usage. I only went through about ten tanks.... >.<

 

[raaazzzeee]

you could always re-tap it, but that takes some speciality tools not foundin your everyday garage.

 

[.21Rc10GT]

The only real solutions are: Re-tap the hole, find a slightly longer screw, or, buy a new case.

 

[Cupooterluvr]

I'll go with the case, depending on cost. How much do they cost? Is it the entire engine case or just the piston case?

 

[sweetdiesel]

I noticed that your piston is pitted, which shows a sign of detonation or running too lean. You may have prematurely worn out the sleeve, which could explain why the pullstart turned the engine over so easily. Remove the sleeve and piston. With the sleeve out of the engine, push the piston through and see if it extends past the sleeve. It should get tight before it reaches the top, but if it extends past the sleeve then it is worn out.

 

[Cupooterluvr]

How could I have been running too lean when I had fuel spitting out of the exhaust until I tuned it today?
How much does it cost to get the screw hole on my engine fixed?

EDIT: My dad says the engine will still run fine. I believe him, I'm sure if he's wrong he'll get it fixed, anyways. He says he'll put some JB weld on it, though if I ever need to replace the piston or sleeve I need to buy a new one.

 

[Racer 1966]

How could I have been running too lean when I had fuel spitting out of the exhaust until I tuned it today?

If it's too lean, it only takes a few minutes to burn the piston or sleeve.

He says he'll put some JB weld on it

From my experience, Jb is too soft for a head screw. If you stripped the aluminum, you'll strip the JB easier.

How much does it cost to get the screw hole on my engine fixed?

About $10 + shipping both ways if you want to send it to me. Shoot me a PM if intersted. Or check a machine shop in your area.