Possible VERY bad engine problems

[4u2nv]

you pay shipping both ways and Ill retap it for ya. Itll only take a couple minutes. My guess would be that its a lower end brand and they tend to skimp on the quality to make the price lower, and it was just cheap cast meterial so it stripped easily. But yeah, ya want me to re-tap it, shoot me a pm and lemme know.

 

[Cupooterluvr]

If it's too lean, it only takes a few minutes to burn the piston or sleeve.

I only had it going for all of about a minute yesterday.

From my experience, Jb is too soft for a head screw. If you stripped the aluminum, you'll strip the JB easier.

Ok, I'll use locktite?

About $10 + shipping both ways if you want to send it to me. Shoot me a PM if intersted. Or check a machine shop in your area.

I'll take the machine shop.

Thanks for your help, guys.

Wouldn't it be okay for me to just try and run it with the loose screw?

 

[MEGA MAXX]

the piston doesn't look right to me either....

i stripped a thread in the head on my trx2.5 engine, i re tapped the threads and it was fine, useing locktite or jb weld wont work..

 

[Cupooterluvr]

the piston doesn't look right to me either....

i stripped a thread in the head on my trx2.5 engine, i re tapped the threads and it was fine, useing locktite or jb weld wont work..

Well, what's it supposed to look like?

I think I'm going to send my piece of crap engine back to them and get a different one if I can.

Do all engines of the same size fit the same car? Would a bigger engine still fit my car? If so, how big? What's the best engine for the price, in your experience?

 

[Racer 1966]

Here's a pic of one that has just under 1gal run time.

 

[Cupooterluvr]

Oh. Well. I don't know how mine got that bad.

I think it actually came that way, from the factory. It wasn't even tuned from there. I'm going to get a new engine. What's the best engine out there for the best price? Preferably side exhaust so I don't have to buy a new pipe and manifold.

 

[Cupooterluvr]

Has anyone besides me ever wondered why the Locktite blue tube is red and the Locktite red tube is blue? We put some on the screw, I'm going to try to run it tomorrow after the glue sets. Hopefully, the easy to pull thing will go away. I think you guys might be right that it was too lean on the high end, I richened it a half turn. Low end is screwed up I think, that could be why it was so easy to pull because the mix was too lean or rich.

For future reference, is this a good engine:

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXGGP7&P=ML

and if so, is this one better or worse:

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXGEE4&P=ML

Thanks guys for the help on this matter, I was freaking out when my engine messed up.

 

[Cupooterluvr]

Ok, it finally got warm enough for me to run my car. I got it tuned fairly well, nice stream of smoke, quick throttle (though it still won't shift). The pull start is no longer THAT easy to pull, which is good. Then I noticed that the radio box was wet, next to the engine.

Turns out, the Locktite worked but not too well. The part of the engine with the stripped screw is pretty secure on there, but there's a microscopic gap only big enough to spray fuel from the mill. It doesn't seem to affect performance too much, or if it does I don't notice.

My question is if I can use Locktite as a sort of "caulk" around where the screw is stripped. It says on the tube that it'll take temps of around 314f degrees. I don't really mind if it doesn't help any performance aspects, I just don't like seeing smoke and fuel spraying out of the engine (who would lol).


Also, as a side note, someone on here mentioned that a two speed tranny should have two screws on it. Mine has two screws right next to each other, the one on the left (looking at it with the front of the car facing away from me) is turnable without much force but the other is stuck pretty tight at the bottom of its hole. Am I supposed to turn both to adjust the tranny? If so, which way for which screw?

 

[Racer 1966]

NO!! Do Not try to use loc-tite as a caulk. The purpose of the screws are to apply pressure to keep the head sealed to the block.The loc-tite may keep the screw from coming out but the problem is use can't put any torque on the screw before the loctitie sets up to attain the pressure needed to seal that area. You NEED to get the stripped threads repaired.

As for the tranny question, try to find a manual to look at that is specific to your car. I sure it's similar to my Savage. On it, only 1 screw is adustable. I turn it clockwise to get a later shift and counter clockwise to make it shift earlier.

Check rcdocuments.com for a free downloadable manual.

 

[Cupooterluvr]

Ok then, will a longer screw fix it? Where can I get them?

My engine seems to be working fine, even with the small gap. Is there some long-term effect that could occur from the gap?

 

[Racer 1966]

Most of the head screws I've used are 3mm. Take one with you and check the LHS,they should have screws and taps, or should be able to point you in the direction of someone who does.

Possible long term effects are warping of the head or block, erosion of material in that area and loss of compression. You're already losing some compression now, hence the fuel spraying out. If you fix it right, you'll get a lot more life from the engine.

 

[Cupooterluvr]

Most of the head screws I've used are 3mm. Take one with you and check the LHS,they should have screws and taps, or should be able to point you in the direction of someone who does.

Possible long term effects are warping of the head or block, erosion of material in that area and loss of compression. You're already losing some compression now, hence the fuel spraying out. If you fix it right, you'll get a lot more life from the engine.

Unfortunately, I don't know where my LHS is, or I'd go there. Do you know where it is? I'm in Leavenworth KS (LHS High school, incidentally:hmm1: ). The nearest hobby shop's in KS city.

I notice you live about a hundred miles away, is there anything you can do to help?

 

[sweetdiesel]

Check HTs website to see if they have a store near you.

http://www.hobbytown.com

 

[Cupooterluvr]

They do, that's the nearest one.

 

[Cupooterluvr]

Great, I finally get my engine tuned, if not perfect, and it snows AGAIN. At this rate, I'll never get it fully tuned to perfection. I haven't even taken it to an open field yet! Luckily, we'll be moving to Florida this summer though, so I won't die of anticipation.

My wheels still move when I leave the car at idle, though it idles for more than 2 seconds (actually it goes for about four to six seconds then dies) I'm pretty sure I fixed the clutch spring, could I have forgotten something? I tried to get it to shift sooner, but it still won't. Is there a chance that my 2 speed shifts sooner if I turn the screw counterclockwise instead of clockwise? I just thought of this, but maybe the tranny has been stuck in 2nd gear this whole time and won't shift back, is that even possible?

 

[sweetdiesel]

Great, I finally get my engine tuned, if not perfect....

My wheels still move when I leave the car at idle, though it idles for more than 2 seconds (actually it goes for about four to six seconds then dies)

Until you fix that gap in your engine I would not waste your time trying to fix your tuning problems. Get the hole retapped or get a new engine casing. You will never get a well tuned engine until your engine is free of air leaks.

 

[Cupooterluvr]

Until you fix that gap in your engine I would not waste your time trying to fix your tuning problems. Get the hole retapped or get a new engine casing. You will never get a well tuned engine until your engine is free of air leaks.

I only wish I could, but I don't know where to get a case, let alone how much it costs (My engine is one of those generic off brands that no one knows about), and I can't find anyone to retap the hole.

Until I either fix it or get a new engine, I don't mind the performance issues. I don't want to race it, even if I had good enough parts, and I don't exactly have alot of space for WOT, so I'm not going to burn myself out looking for someone to fix it.

If anyone on RCNT who has the tools to fix it lives within relatively easy driving distance of me, let me know.

 

[jon2]

I only wish I could, but I don't know where to get a case, let alone how much it costs (My engine is one of those generic off brands that noone knows about), and I can't find anyone to retap the hole.

EBAY is a good start to find a crank case.

 

[Cupooterluvr]

EBAY is a good start to find a crank case.

I already looked. Nobody has one...

 

[sweetdiesel]

I only wish I could, but I don't know where to get a case, let alone how much it costs (My engine is one of those generic off brands that no one knows about), and I can't find anyone to retap the hole.

You had two members here chime in and offer to help you get the hole retapped for a very reasonable cost. Go with either one of them and be done with it.

Until I either fix it or get a new engine, I don't mind the performance issues. I don't want to race it, even if I had good enough parts, and I don't exactly have alot of space for WOT, so I'm not going to burn myself out looking for someone to fix it.

So what was the point of this thread?