Hello. I was please wondering if someone could please tell me a solution or things that other people have done to stop the one-way bearing from slipping on the Megatech .16 engine? You can't really drill a hole in the back like the Ttraxxas Pro .15 engine or like other engines because of it being a pull-start and the way it is made.
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Please help....one-way bearing
- Thread starter Steelick
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How much use has it had. If it's fairly new, and it's slipping, you have to remove it and clean it with rubbing alcohol. I'm not sure if yours in in the pull start or if it's internal, but it's usually because they get oily after a while and need to be cleaned.
If it's had a lot of use, it's due for replacement.
If it's had a lot of use, it's due for replacement.
Also, if your going to spend the $ to replace it, replace the starter shaft that goes in it as well. More than likely it's the shaft that's worn and not the bearing, but it will definatly be both somewhat.
Putting a new bearing on an old shaft will get you a new worn out bearing in a short time. Save $ now and replace both.
Putting a new bearing on an old shaft will get you a new worn out bearing in a short time. Save $ now and replace both.
- Thread starter
- #6
I know..
Thanks for your help guys. It is new, brand new....just broke it in and now I have to tune it a little better. If I drill a hole in the case the fuel,cleaner,etc. that I put in the hole to clean the one-way bearing will never reach it because the pull-start string and casing blocks the cleaning solution from getting to the bearing. I am not going to replace the bearing at all because they're expensive, plus I just got the engine. There is no need to replace it anyways. Thanks.
Thanks for your help guys. It is new, brand new....just broke it in and now I have to tune it a little better. If I drill a hole in the case the fuel,cleaner,etc. that I put in the hole to clean the one-way bearing will never reach it because the pull-start string and casing blocks the cleaning solution from getting to the bearing. I am not going to replace the bearing at all because they're expensive, plus I just got the engine. There is no need to replace it anyways. Thanks.
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Avoid drilling the holes for easy cleaning. It only lets dust in, making things worse in the long run. Just take it out and give it a good cleaning. The whole process is less than an hour.
Jer_ry
RCTalk Racer
i hate slipping one way bearing 2 of my cars do it constantly and it's so frustrating....but on the other hand i told someone what they were doing and the unnamed resource told me to spray it with wd-40. so i did and to my amazement it worked instantly....but the next day it was back to a slippin...so i guess oil on the bearing is bad now from what i hear.
- Thread starter
- #9
Yea but....
Well it might be bad technically but it works and you have to find a fix for it. I'm not going to take it apart and clean it when it does it every time I run or every tank or so. It does that to every engine and every rc I have, every knows that. I know you guys wouldn't take it apart and clean it every time it does it either. Most of the time the next day I run it it slips every time even if it is the next or the same tank of gas.
I agree with you but what else are you going to do? It doesn't let that much dirt and dust in and I do clean it sometimes. When I spray cleaner into it it cleans it a little bit, but still not as much dust and dirt gets into it as you think (although its more than some people think). Also there are lots (infinite.... :hammer:
..) ways to prevent all or most dust of getting inside of the drilled hole. You could use fuel line and a fuel nozzle or you could also use tape,etc....the possibilites are endless and I do take protective measures against it.
(And again...I don't think you guys would not only take it apart every time it slips but also clean it to...I know I'm not).
Well it might be bad technically but it works and you have to find a fix for it. I'm not going to take it apart and clean it when it does it every time I run or every tank or so. It does that to every engine and every rc I have, every knows that. I know you guys wouldn't take it apart and clean it every time it does it either. Most of the time the next day I run it it slips every time even if it is the next or the same tank of gas.
I agree with you but what else are you going to do? It doesn't let that much dirt and dust in and I do clean it sometimes. When I spray cleaner into it it cleans it a little bit, but still not as much dust and dirt gets into it as you think (although its more than some people think). Also there are lots (infinite.... :hammer:
..) ways to prevent all or most dust of getting inside of the drilled hole. You could use fuel line and a fuel nozzle or you could also use tape,etc....the possibilites are endless and I do take protective measures against it. (And again...I don't think you guys would not only take it apart every time it slips but also clean it to...I know I'm not).
You would have thought that they would have come up with another alternative to the one way bearing already. My dad (a machinest for Excel Energy Power plant) thinks its one of the dumbest setups hes ever seen. I'm starting to agree..
There is a better way... it's on small engines like lawnmowers. I can't believe they never incorporated it onto these things.
Show your dad the collet and how it provides the connection to the drive train. I for one thing that's one of the other retarded things on these engines.
Show your dad the collet and how it provides the connection to the drive train. I for one thing that's one of the other retarded things on these engines.
The collet really isn't worth discussing. I've just had issues keeping a flywheel tight without putting shims behind it.
As for the pull start, it's depended on centrifigal force as opposed to a bearing binding on a shaft. With a lawnmower, weedeater, chainsaw, pretty much anything with a pullstart but rc nitro, there's a flywheel on one end of the engine and the output on the other end. The nut that holds the flywheel has bearings in it that settle into pockets when the engine isn't running. When you pull the pull start, these bearings sitting in pockets provide the catch. Once the engine is running, the bearings roll out of the pocket and the centrifigal force holds them out until the engine dies or is shut off.
As for the pull start, it's depended on centrifigal force as opposed to a bearing binding on a shaft. With a lawnmower, weedeater, chainsaw, pretty much anything with a pullstart but rc nitro, there's a flywheel on one end of the engine and the output on the other end. The nut that holds the flywheel has bearings in it that settle into pockets when the engine isn't running. When you pull the pull start, these bearings sitting in pockets provide the catch. Once the engine is running, the bearings roll out of the pocket and the centrifigal force holds them out until the engine dies or is shut off.
How old is it? My first job was repairing anything with a small engine in it in a lawnmower shop. I never saw one like that, but it was 10 years ago and pretty much everything I worked on was 10 years old then. But now that I think about it, even the new ones then had the kind I talked about.
I didn't work on a lot of 2 cycle stuff though. Mostly 4 cycle briggs, techumseh and kohler. There was an older guy there that like to work on the chainsaws, weedwackers and 2 cycle lawnmowers...
Crap, I just remembered, chain saws use that style. I never really looked at one up close when it was apart though.
I didn't work on a lot of 2 cycle stuff though. Mostly 4 cycle briggs, techumseh and kohler. There was an older guy there that like to work on the chainsaws, weedwackers and 2 cycle lawnmowers...
Crap, I just remembered, chain saws use that style. I never really looked at one up close when it was apart though.
