please help a noob out

[sweetdiesel]

Hi all,

Just finished assembling my new SS and was able to break it in successfully, but now it looks looks my clutch is slipping. When I tried to take the clutch bell screw off, it keeps turning the piston and won't come off. I tried holding onto the flywheel to keep it form turning, but no luck there. Any suggestions on how to get this thing off? I am a noob to nitro cars, this is my first and any help is greatly appreciated!

 

[sweetdiesel]

Hi all,

Just finished assembling my new Savage SS and was able to break it in successfully, but now it looks looks my clutch is slipping. When I tried to take the clutch bell screw off, it keeps turning the piston and won't come off. I tried holding onto the flywheel to keep it form turning, but no luck there. Any suggestions on how to get this thing off? I am a noob to nitro cars, this is my first and any help is greatly appreciated!

 

[kwong2001]

Get a piston locking tool. You screw it into where the glow plug is. Goto any hobby shop and they should have it

 

[olds97_lss]

You don't need to post twice. The check posts since last visit will make it show up.

Aside from that, what did you hold the flywheel with? Your hand or a pair of channel lock pliers? If you flywheel is slipping at all, that's a whole different problem.

A lot of people frown on the piston locking tools. It doesn't disperse the pressure accross the piston head evenly.

I pull the glow plug, turn the flywheel until the ports are covered, then fill the remaining space with after run oil. Then put the glowplug back in. This hydrolocks the engine so it won't turn over, but it also disperses the pressure evenly accross the whole piston, not just the center.

Just make sure to take the glow plug out and drain the oil before trying to start it.

 

[canadian-mgt]

you may need to use a set of sliding channel lock pliers than hold onto the flywheel,or a piston locking tool.

you could also try this one,take the carb off then engine then stick a plastic ziptie into the opening in the crank,when the crank tries to rotate while turning the clutchbell screw the zip tie will hold the crank in place.since the ziptie is plastic it wont hurt the metal crank or engine case.just make sure you use the side of the ziptie with the coupler,since the coupler is thick it won't get sliced from all the torque you apply while turning the screw.

 

[sweetdiesel]

the zip tie trick worked! thank you canadian-mgt. Canada rocks!

 

[sweetdiesel]

I held the flywheel with my hand and it still slips when I try to remove the clutch bell screw. I will try to hydrolock the engine right now and see if your tip will work. Thanks!

And sorry about the double post...still a forum noob...doh!

I removed the glow plug and turned the flywheel by hand and nothing happens. Is my flywheel broken? I turned the clutch bell screw to move the piston and filled up with after run oil and still no luck.

With advice from canadian mgt using a zip tie to block the piston I was able to get the screw out. Thank you all for your suggestions.

 

[olds97_lss]

It sounds like your flywheel is slipping. You need to fix that before putting it back together.

 

[drkspid4]

what if i did that and the cluch bell screw is still stuck in possibly from the person i bought the car from used like a good amount of locktite and it will NOT budge i tried warming it up that didnt work what else COULD WORK wd-40? on the screw?

 

[sweetdiesel]

Yes, the flywheel nut was loose, which was why I couldn't unscrew the clutch bell screw. What was strange to me was how it came loose in the first place. It is definitelely on nice and tight now. Thanks olds!

 

[olds97_lss]

Is the flywheel un-spinnable? Just asking to be certain. The flywheel is designed to be stationary on the crankshaft.

 

[FRIDGE]

just a quick question here. did you use thread lock on the flywheel nut? if not you should or you will have this problem more and more.

 

[sweetdiesel]

When I first had the problem the flywheel was spinning freely from the crankshaft. I had no idea this was supposed to be locked. It has since now been locked back into place with the flywheel nut. I didn't put any thread lock on because the instruction manual only specified thread lock on the clutch bell screw. I will put some on tonight when I dissassemble the truck to clean it.

Thank you all for the most helpful tips. This forum has made my introduction to nitro cars a fun and enlightening experience!!

 

[FRIDGE]

dont tighten the flywheel screw wiht the thread lock like ultra tight it will be a real pain to take out again just tight enough not torque it in till i die tight. just to save you a little luck for the future.

 

[canadian-mgt]

what did you use to heat it up? if it's red loctite you may need a butane torch that's capable of giving off an "afterburner" type flame.probably something like this would be your best bet.

 

[sweetdiesel]

Thanks for the tip Fridge! I had chance to run my truck today for a few tanks on pavement before the rain started to come down, and finally got to hear the two-speed shift. Wow, what an AWESOME sound when the truck is wide open. Made sure to not keep it wide open for more than a couple sec to help prolong the engine life.

Now I've got a new prob, can't get the truck to shift into reverse. I'm about to tear it down to clean it up, so I guess I'll have to rip open the center differential. I might have installed the reverse module incorrectly. Hopefully it's a simple fix.

Edit: Turns out I didn't set the end of position adjustment far enough on my servo to engage reverse. Problem fixed!