Pics needed.

[Rolex]

I need some photos of a complete Revo or Slayer, no body, from the top, bottom, front and back.
I'm using both those cars for parts on one of my projects, and there are a few details I can't work out from their exploded views.
Thanks for the help.

 

[olds97_lss]

2.5 revo chassis:

3.3 chassis:

Looking for something specific? I may have a close up. Sorry, the 3.3 photo's were my "hi-res selling it" photo's whereas my 2.5 photo's are just resized down to forum specs from the old days.

 

[Rolex]

The pics are great. I'm using a Revo trans and both diffs. The A-arms and drive shafts are from a Slayer. The shocks are from other cars and set up in the standard fashion rather then the Revo rocker system.
I need to know what holds the long suspension pins in place, both front and rear. The lower short pins I've got covered.
I also need to know how to mount the rear control rods to keep the wheels straight. What I tried turns the wheels out when the suspension rises.

 

[NitroRC4Life]

the long pins are help in place with the blue tie plates which are held in place by the front and rear body posts. Then for the rear control rods, you have to put them in between the rear bulkhead and the rear tie plate.. Then the two screw you have, go through the tie plate, through the control rod, and into the bulkhead... Hope I helped

 

[Rolex]

Well, I think I need these, and they're not in my parts box. Anyone have them?
I have no blue parts, and I don't know what the tie plates are.

 

[olds97_lss]

The pins go through these:
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXHFW4&P=7

Similar to the savage. The pins are supported on the outside end by that plate and on the inside end, by the bulkhead themselves.

Here you can see the rear plate circled in green:

The yellow circles indicate the upper hinge pins. You see two little retainers on that body mount you posted that keeps the hinge pins from working their way out.

I'll go through all my photo's and see if I have any higher res/size ones I can get you.

I think your toe problem is caused by the mounting point of your turnbuckle. Either you have it mounted on the inside too high/low or you have the wrong ball end on the axle carrier itself. Without both ends in the right relationship to the carrier and mounting point, it really affects your bump-steer. I accidentally screwed mine up really bad on a maxx and it did what your suggesting. I did it by putting the ball end on the carrier on the top of the arm instead of under the arm. That's not as easy to do on a revo, but can be done by using the wrong ball end off set.

inner = yellow
outer = green

 

[Rolex]

Ah, the blue ALUMINUM parts. I have them, but the pins go through them. I wasn't thinking since I've painted them.

What's the advantage of using the upper or lower position for those pins?
I'm also thinking you might have a point with the axle carriers. I'll have to see if there's a difference in them, or if the rears are mounted upside down. The fronts, with steering connected, are fine.

 

[olds97_lss]

Well, on the revo, this is what it has for the rear outer ball end:

The ball is toward the bottom of the pivot ball.


And the front:

The ball is centered on the pivot ball.

So they do differ. I'll go check the manual for the slayer and see if it has something similar. You can adjust the holes on the bulkhead to adjust how much bump-steer you have on the rear. I'm sure it's not called bumpsteer on the rear... probably has some other name.

The way to change it on the front is to run different pivot balls.

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXHGC9&P=7

EDIT:
Yep, the slayer uses the tall "centered" ones on both front and rear:

Front:

Rear:

Forgot to mention, the multiple holes for the hinge pins allow you to change your roll center. You can raise or lower your COG depending on where the pin is. I'm sure someone that races can explain that way better than me. I know a lot of RC's have a way to adjust it. Be it holes like the revo or extra ball end locations like the jato.

 

[Rolex]

Well, I have those parts, but I haven't tried them. I was experimenting with my extra Savage rods since they were about the right length, and the LHS didn't have the right ones in stock.
Just remember, I'm using Revo diffs and bulkheads and Slayer A-arms. I have new Slayer axle carriers on the front, but because I got the last pair in stock, I've set up the rears with Revo uprights.
I think you might have nailed it with the hollow ball setup.

Yup, I just noticed that the rods I got for the Slayer that are on the front end, came with the tall centered balls. That should solve that when I put some on the rear.

Thanks SO much for your help. Now I'll just have to order a body mount set, even though I won't be using it to mount the body.

 

[2revo1maxx]

Well, I have those parts, but I haven't tried them. I was experimenting with my extra Savage rods since they were about the right length, and the LHS didn't have the right ones in stock.
Just remember, I'm using Revo diffs and bulkheads and Slayer A-arms. I have new Slayer axle carriers on the front, but because I got the last pair in stock, I've set up the rears with Revo uprights.
I think you might have nailed it with the hollow ball setup.

Yup, I just noticed that the rods I got for the Slayer that are on the front end, came with the tall centered balls. That should solve that when I put some on the rear.

Thanks SO much for your help. Now I'll just have to order a body mount set, even though I won't be using it to mount the body.

Hey Rolex I didn't have time to read all this stuff word for word so maybe I missed something, but yes it lowers your roll center, making it corner very well. You can 'flat track' it noticably better this way. However, it will traction roll if you're not careful. I used a traxxas driver setup sheet to set mine up, they're on the web. I was suprised to find that one sheet had my setup on it. Using the lower holes in back, upper holes up front. It's good to use the sheets or even a revo manual because when you set up you have to screw with those little hollow balls to get the bump steer right.

 

[Rolex]

All the rest of my parts except the Slayer front axles came in today.
This thing is BIG and will be slightly top heavy due to the hard body and its size, so it won't be doing any hot rodding.
What my final target will be is a 'fairly' fast mover that can do a little crawling. I'll be splitting the difference.

 

[olds97_lss]

Thanks SO much for your help. Now I'll just have to order a body mount set, even though I won't be using it to mount the body.

No problem man. Glad I could help!

So... is this one going to find it's way off the dreaded shelf?!?!? Aside from the trip to the chromer?

 

[Rolex]

LMAO!
This one's WAY too big for a shelver. Anything that requires this much custom fabrication is DEFINITELY going to see some dirt. :gulp::yes:

I just finished the rear a few minutes ago. It helps to put the axle carriers in the right way. I knew they had to be wrong when the new turnbuckles did the same thing. Learning the hard way, so I NEVER forget it.

 

[adeezy9183]

pics please!!!!!

 

[robmob]

Let me know if you are needing any Revo parts Timex.

I have a box of Revo parts left over from my old 2.5R that I probably will never need.