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wazzinator

RC Newbie
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gidday everyone,
I have just ordered a new body for my nitro rustler. It is a clear proline body and wanted to know what sort of paint is safe to use. I have spoken to a friend which has just opened up his own crash repair and spray shop and was wondering if auto paint is safe to use on my new body.


Thank you
Wazzinator
 
You definately need to use paint that is specific to Lexan r/c bodies. These paints are formulately to bond to this type of plastic and it is also very flexible. Parma, Tamiya, and Testors/Pactra are popular types of paints to use.

Parma's Fascolor is a waterbased paint and is probably the most popular paint to use. It's great to spray indoors since it is waterbased and doesn't smell. Cleanup is also "easy" since it doesn't require a thinner, just water.

Pactra's Racing Finish is a laquer based paint and is my personal choice. IMO, it is more flexible (figuratively speaking) to thinning so if you are into details such as intricate shading, shadowing, and highlighting you will get a much better outcome with this. Of course it's laquer based so it requires a thinner to clean. IMO, this is "easier" than cleaning up dried waterbased paint with water. Word to the wise.. DO use the laqcuer thinner that Pacta sells when thinning paint for spraying. I know it's expensive compared to the cans you can get at the home improvement stores but the Pactra stuff is formulated specifically for the paint. I've experimented with the cheap route and the results were very poor. The paint will not bond very well and will be highly prone to chipping.

Pactra also makes a waterbased paint called Acryl. I have no personal experience with this stuff but I believe NCNitro (a very good painter here at RCNT) has used or does use it.
 
I'm sure you probably already know this, and I'm not trying to insult you. But when I first got into the RC's many years ago, my first mistake I almost made was painting the outside of the body. Just in case you didn't already know this, you paint the body from the inside and then when you crash it doesn't rub off the paint. The lexan also gives the paint a gloss.
 
I have used auto paint before. You have to use base coat only. First very, very, very lightly scuff with a light scouch brite pad. You can use hair drier but seems better to let it tack on its own before the next coat
 
It will work for a display lid, but will crack and peel on impact. Automotive paint is rigid unless a flex additive is added to it. Fiberglass needs it, and plastic bumpers do also.
For painting a Lexan lid, it's the most expensive as well as the least worthwhile way of doing it.
Time, money, and chemicals NOT intended for this material.
 
Lessen really gave you some good advice.Covered all the main manufactures and most importantly stay with the brand of thinner/paint combo.Although there is nothing wrong with a rattlecan job if its formulated for lexan.BTW the parma and pactra that you can buy at wal-mart for plastic model kits is not the same as lexan paint.
 
Moved thread to the Body Shop... Do not use scotch brite pad on the windows... You will cloud them up. Wash your lid good in the sink to remove any oils/release agents... Do your window masking, run the scotch brite around the lid, finish masking any designs, and start painting...
 
I've found the best thing to use when cleaning the lid before painting is just a good quality dish washing detergent and water then apply your window masks and then scuff the rest with a scotch brite pad. All of the guys that have given the advice above me do super looking paint jobs and are the one that answered a lot of my questions when I first started. Another thing I can suggest is to practice on the inside of a soda bottle that has been washed and has been cut open.
 
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