OS VZB V-SPEC: 2.94hp/104tq 44K RPM according to RCNT dyno

[alkyula]

was at a friends house reading thru all his recent issues of rc nitro..and came across the dyno results for the OS VZB v-spec. the results read 2.94hp at 28k somthing rpm, 104 oz tq at some 25k rpm, and wound up to 44k rpm. at 36k rpm it was still making somewere around 1.4hp. so i had to come on here and ask if anyone has ran or seen this mill run...I've always read that anything over 2.2 real hp is more than a buggy needs...and this new OS buggy mill (according the the method and type of dyno RCNT magazine uses) pushes damn near the 3hp mark, and with only 3 ports at that!

theyve dynoed in the past several other mills that have been known to be screamers (the sirio sb pro buggy mill made something like 2.3hp) and they say nothing they know of (or maybe have dynoed) comes close to the power output of the OS. funny thing is...the "older" VZB made 2.54hp, more than the 2.45 rating...and the new VZB is rated at 2.54, but made 2.9+...nice to actually see a mill make alot MORE than the claimed HP.

 

[CorradoPsi]

I've got one, yeah it screams. i have about a quart and a half through it including breakin so its still fairly new. but it sure does move. i bought it before anyone had reviewed the motor so i guess i lucked out. btw I'm using a jammin JP-1 pipe on it and have only tried the 8mm restrictor. with that combo fuel mileage is great too.

 

[repete]

i run 2 of them...they go like a nobodies business...

 

[Toycar]

It's an awesome engine revs and drops real fast too with a super smooth and useable powerband. Can't go wrong with this engine except it seems to be out of stock on the tower site. If they still have any left I don't imagine they will last long.

 

[CorradoPsi]

i dont know if they ever had them. i tried to get one in the US, i called hobby shops all up and down the east and west coast. nobody had it. i ordered from RCmushroom and had it in 4 days. this was the begining of sept.

 

[alkyula]

well after seeing those power numbers i couldnt resist. jsut placed an order with overnight delivery from tower for the VZB V-Spec, which was 299$. i saw it for 270$ elsewere..but i had to go thru tower so i could use there bill-me-later pay option. (make monthly payments like a credit card for purchases from there store) i also picked up an extra O.S. P3 turbo plug and a motorsaver filter for the engine, plus some 5k and 1k oil for my right now plain grease front and rear diffs. ill be running the engine with a THS pipe, which i hope will be a good combo.

the O.S. will be replacing a hyper 8-port, which is in my storm pro. I've got about 2 1/2 gallons thru the hyper, and it still runs good with about as much power as it always had. i think its a decent mill for a RTR or beginner buggy, but I'm hoping this V-Spec will make me crap my pants. as to wether i can even handle 2.94hp/104oz 44k rpm of dyno proven power i really doubt, but who cares..... itll be fun. >=)

 

[Toycar]

Keep an eye on the rear gearbox pinnion and ring gear mesh. I know that I added 3 shims over a gallon of fuel on my K3. I heard some guys blow the rear end constantly but hasn't happened yet to me due to my close attention.

 

[Doggie]

Seems like OS tends to underrate their engine specs (I like that), unlike other manufacturers...

Is there a pull start version of this engine? (to put in a Savage)

 

[vbgagnon]

I highly doubt that this engine will come in a pullstart, because its a race buggy engine.

 

[Buggyracer28]

Hey, i might get this engine, but i am not sure if i should geta different engine. could some1 help me decide?

 

[hudler]

Lots of great buggy engines out there, this one sounds pretty good, what does it cost. One of the best deals in RC engines right now is the mac engine, it is a reengineered CMB engine by andy brown. I have the CMB version and absolutly LOVE it, great power and reliable. The mac engine is on sale right now for around $210, it is a great competition buggy engine at a very good price, check out the starting grid for details of where to buy this engine at this price. Also the service at cmdi (mac headquarters) is some of the best in the business. Isay get the mac!

 

[alkyula]

what percent nitro and brand of fuel do you guys run with your v-specs? I'm planning on running trinity monster 30%, but would like to hear from someone else that has already run the engine for maybe a different choice. actually the LHS's in my town either carry byrons or trinity, with trinity being at the lhs close to my side of town. I've read that the engine will be fine on 30% with no shims added. anyone comment on this?

 

[CorradoPsi]

V-specs on sale this month at www.fullthrottlehobbies.com for $250

i run mine on 30% trinity platinum, the stock P3 plug, jammin JP-1 pipe, i run the included extra shim. it holds about 230-238 degrees when i pull it off the track at the end of a tank, and is powerful enough that it handed a losi LST its ass on the straight today. i know that some guys arent running the extra shim with 30% but I'm not sure what plug they're running either. I've tried novarossis 6's and 7's in it. but it seems to really like that extra hot P3. I'm also getting about 7.5-8.5 minutes runtime depending on how I'm driving, either power through the turns spraying roost on the marshals or taking it easy just driving clean.

by the way, you have to call full throttle to get that price.

 

[alkyula]

what starter box is everyone using with there V-specs? i bought a xtm 12v single motor box, it has a huge single motor, and looking at it i thought it would have a lot of torque.

http://www.hobbypeople.net/gallery/146055.asp

well today when i finnaly got a chance to break in my v-spec i find i cannot even turn it past TDC. i used a heat gun to evenly heat the block/head to 220 degrees, and even loosend the glow plug, but i cannot get the box to crank it over. anything else i can do to make this thing easier to crank for its first few times? i really hope its not the box thats too weak, i can't see how the motor is huge and its got a 12v 7amp battery. thx for any help.

 

[CorradoPsi]

i use an ofna twin 550 motor box on mine. i also have a single 12v motor box for my 10scales. i think the 12v has more torque so i dont think thats your problem. i did not need to loosen my plug at all to start the motor, nor did i warm it up first. what i did do. is make absolutely sure that the piston was backed up all the way to the pinch before i put the car on the box. this gives the startermotor a chance to build up to the pinch and push through it. just turn the flywheel by hand backwards till you feel some resistance. if the engine gets stuck at TDC you have to use a screwdriver in the flywheel hole to kinda pry the flywheel till the piston is out of the pinch area. then you can back up the FW again and try again to start the engine. also when you go to start it. push down slightly so that the starterbox motor starts to spin, but not enough that the FW engages it. let it spin free for a second or 2 before you push the FW down against the rubber wheel.

oh, and your box had better be fully charged or you dont stand a chance in hell.

 

[olds97_lss]

You also might want to heavily lube the engine with some ARO.

 

[alkyula]

thx for all the tips guys, but i found the problem. the starter wheel was jsut barely rubbing on the chassis enough so that it was stopping the wheel before it really even applied any torque to the flywheel. after taking my start box post off and moving the buggy around i found this out..so it was my goof the whole time lol. the box has plenty of torque for the engine. of course right after i got everything going my glow igniter dies....thats enough for today ill havto to wait till this weeknd to break this C-spec in.

 

[CorradoPsi]

good to hear its figured out. why not get a power panel and ignitor lead for your box. i have them on both of my boxes and love em. let us know what you think of the engine.

 

[alkyula]

finished with the break-in process today. used the heat cycle method, i used a heat gun to heat the block up to 200 degress before every start, and did 5 cycles of 3-4 minutes at 200-210 degrees and 3 cycles of 5-6 minutes at 210-215 degrees, and the whole time i had my servo EPA set so my throttle would not open past 50%. running with one extra gold gold shim, on p3 plug and THS pipe. temping about 220-230 at the end of tank. GS storm pro, 13t bell. 1k rear 7k middle 5k front. okay lets get to the good part.

i have fairly new pro-line nuckles, and on parking lot pavement from stand still the
v-spec lights up all four tires to the point they start to balloon. i did not stay in WOT for long becuase the engine still has alot of pinch left and needs more fuel thru it, but top-end is enough to make me say "oh sh!t!". on the track i was not able to use more than 30% throttle without blowing the tires. yet somehow even with the huge amount of power the throttle comes on very smooth if i slowly let into the throttle. there is a good size jump after a turn on my track that has 4 small jumps after it, with about 5 feet in between each small jump. with my hyper 8 port i would be able to launch and land right in front of or sometimes on the first hump, but now i was hitting the first jump and going stupid far landing after the third hump! my track has 2 long straights, the back one is about 130' and it never came close to running out of legs, actually if i wot'ed the back straight i quickly ran out of room! so from what i can see so far this motor has bags of power bottem mid and top.

i was only able to get in 2 tanks of track time before it got too dark to run, but so far i can see myself having too much power for my driving skill for a long time to come, but damn it is fun. ill follow up agian once i get more time behind this beast, and some side by side comparisons next weekend if i get time to enter the races with some rb's and novas.

 

[olds97_lss]

Sounds like you need headlights!