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OS TM .18 in a revo

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Monkey Wrench said:
Yeah, had the same problem. Eventually went to 14/38. Kept the nose down but still had my top end.
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Isn't that a lower ratio than 36/15?
Yours:
38/14 = 2.7
What I had:
40/15 = 2.6
What I have:
36/15 = 2.4

Or do you mean 36/16: 2.37 ?

With what I have, I still have a really hard time keeping the nose down. Don't get me wrong, it's a total blast, but it's got to be hard on the drivetrain. I know it's hard on the body.

I'm guessing at some point the engine will become weaker like all engines do. But with most engines I've ran, you don't really see peak power until 3/4-1 full gallon run through it. I've only probably run a little over a quart through mine... so either it's going to drop off soon, or it's just going to be a handful in the near future.
 
Monkey Wrench said:
Either works fine. I personally pinch the line, but some folks throw a rag into the flywheel or use an old screwdriver. There's been some debate on this, with some feeling pinching the line may cause some damage because it leans the engine out for a bit, but I feel if you're tuned right, the lean condition only lasts a few seconds and that, in and of itself, is not enough to damage the engine.
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which fuel are you using ?
 
Monkey Wrench said:
Whoops! My bad, forgot I changed over before I went to WATCH other people race a few weekends ago. Yup, that's what I have in there now.




Trinity Monster Brew
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do you know SIDEWINDER 20% NITRO with 12% oil?
my local dealer make the break in procedure with this fuel and he told me to use it without AFTER RUN because it has in it the after run.

what do you think about it?
 
Doesn't matter. I'd still use afterrun. Sidewinder has high oil content. I ran some of their 14% oil/20% nitro for awhile and I had oil squirting everywhere. And it ran like crap in my BB engines.

The ARO is to coat the inside of the engine after it cools down. Granted, the sidewinder stuff has a lot of oil already in it, but it also has fuel and gum in it after it burns. I'd use ARO to keep the gum from building up inside the engine.
 
econ1111 said:
do you know SIDEWINDER 20% NITRO with 12% oil?
my local dealer make the break in procedure with this fuel and he told me to use it without AFTER RUN because it has in it the after run.

what do you think about it?
Click to expand...


Yes, I know what Sidewinder is and I know it has a lot of oil in it, but all nitro fuel has oil in it. The point is, as Olds points out, raw fuel, no matter how much oil is in it, will gum your engine up. After every run, I put a few drops of ARO in, spin the flywheel to make sure the P/S, bearings and conrod get a nice coat on them, put the piston at BDC and put my plug back in.

For the record, TMB has 20% nitro and 16% oil and they recommend using ARO after every run.
 
Monkey Wrench said:
Yes, I know what Sidewinder is and I know it has a lot of oil in it, but all nitro fuel has oil in it. The point is, as Olds points out, raw fuel, no matter how much oil is in it, will gum your engine up. After every run, I put a few drops of ARO in, spin the flywheel to make sure the P/S, bearings and conrod get a nice coat on them, put the piston at BDC and put my plug back in.

For the record, TMB has 20% nitro and 16% oil and they recommend using ARO after every run.
Click to expand...

do i need to change my fuel to a fuel with 16% oil (for my O.S .18 TM ENGINE)?

thank you

Eitan
 
Update on Ray's OS.18TM install.

Well I finnaly got off my butt and installed my OS.18TM in the Revo. This seemed to be more hassle to me than what most people report having gone through doing this swap. My first issue was not being able to get my Werks clutch installed. I couldn't a) get the stock CB to fit over the Werks clutch and then b) I couldn't get the CB it came with to fit either :( Anyways, I finnaly moved on and just installed the stock flywheel/clutch praying for the best. Then my next issue was trying to get the truck started. I cranked on it until I was blue in the face. I noticed I forgot to zip tie the pipe to the header but once this was done the truck still didn't start. Well my friend desided to try his glow ignighter to see if that helped. The truck came to life almost shooting out the garage. It had a kink in the carb linkage and was causing it to WOT. Once that was fixed I tryed my EZ starter again. All it did was spin the motor but no start. So we tried the GP ignighter again and again it worked like a charm. I figured the batteries in the EZ starter was dead but it failed to start the Revo even with a full charge:ponder2: The last of my issues is, the Revo once started want get into second gear but seems to make enough power to do it. In fact, the Revo in First gear only seemed to have more power than my old 2.5r in any gear :OMG: I finnaly had to shut her down for the day so I didn't have time to mess with it any more...but I did order a GP igniter for it ;) Also, It was the first time in a VERY long time that the Revo acutally died for a aparent reason...she ran out of fuel lol I started to freak out having flash backs until I noticed the tank was empty lol.

Just som FYI info: I'm using Bluethunder 20% fuel w/MC 59 GP. I never had her running long enough to check temps but she didn't seem to be overly smoking while I drove her that one time.

Thanks
Ray
 
Monkey Wrench said:
1. Empty the tank of all fuel.
2. Pull the plug, put a couple drops of ARO in there then spin the starter for a couple seconds.
3. Spin the flywheel so the piston is at BDC. Put the plug back in.

Do this after every run and that TM will last a long time. Whoever told you that you don't need to because you are using Sidewinder is misleading you. Even if the manufacturer states that, I still suggest doing these steps.

Enjoy that TM!
Click to expand...

I just did what you say, and after i put 4 drops of ARO i push the EZ-START for 5 seconds and then i put the plug in the engine.

Is it ok ?

Eitan
 
Monkey Wrench said:
Yes, just make sure the piston is at BDC and you're fine!
Click to expand...

sorry. i have another question for you...

i heard that after 3-4 galons i have to replace the Connecting Rod and after another 3 galons i have to replace the Cylinder & Piston ..

Is it true??
and if yes is the engine will be lack of performance after those procedure?

thanks.

Eitan
 
I keep a really close track on how much fuel I run through my engines. I've read the the 18TM dies around 3 gallons as well which is hard for me to believe.

If it's true, replacing the con-rod/piston and sleeve will give you like new performance again (after breaking it in again).

I have about 3/4 gallon through my 18TM and it's still has a very tight pinch at TDC without the GP in. It runs pretty cool (around 210) and it runs really well.

I've gotten 12 gallons through more than one OS engine. The OS 15 cv-r and the OS 21 RG. Both of those aren't their top of the line engines. Both are/were around $140 new. I just find it hard to believe that the 18 will only give you 3 gallons if it's properly taken care of... but time will tell.

When it does die and start flaming out, I'll post again with my fuel quantity.

Then, I'll probably have OSRocket or RayAracing pinch the sleeve and possibly buy a new con-rod depending on the slop that it has. It's a much cheaper way to get your compression back. A new piston/sleeve for the TM is $82 and a con-rod is $60. Hell, for that kind of $, I could just buy a TRX 3.3 and give it a try.
 
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For the cost of a new p/s and rod you can just about buy a TZ or as olds said, get the 3.3. I've got probably 3-4 gallons threw my TM but I don't keep too much track of it, but it still runs great on track.
 
jetmechG550 said:
For the cost of a new p/s and rod you can just about buy a TZ or as olds said, get the 3.3. I've got probably 3-4 gallons threw my TM but I don't keep too much track of it, but it still runs great on track.
Click to expand...



Yeah, same here and I didn't know people were having their TM's die after three gallons, so I'm wondering on that one. As for how mine runs on a track, hard to say because it hasn't been on one, but mine goes great when I'm practicing!

Frankly, if you take the time to care for your mill, it should last a fairly long time (I stress SHOULD). Manufacturing defects aside, keeping it from gumming up and preventing it from over heating are two keys in engine life.
 
Monkey Wrench said:
Yeah, same here and I didn't know people were having their TM's die after three gallons, so I'm wondering on that one. As for how mine runs on a track, hard to say because it hasn't been on one, but mine goes great when I'm practicing!

Frankly, if you take the time to care for your mill, it should last a fairly long time (I stress SHOULD). Manufacturing defects aside, keeping it from gumming up and preventing it from over heating are two keys in engine life.
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so all that i heared is only rumors ? and if i would takse care the engine and put after run ....after each run it will last about 10 galons?
 
econ1111 said:
so all that i heared is only rumors ? and if i would takse care the engine and put after run ....after each run it will last about 10 galons?
Click to expand...


There are no guarantees, man. Heck, you could tuck it into bed every night, add ARO...the whole smash and it'll throw a rod tomorrow! Don't read more into things the folks are posting. I'm merely stating that, all things being equal, a mill that is taken care of (ARO, watching temps., etc.) will TYPICALLY last longer than one that is run and then thrown on the shelf. I cannot say your TM will make it 10 gallons any more than I can say I'll wake up tomorrow with Angelina Jolie as my wife!
 

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