One more soon, Redcat , Traxxas or Arma

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So I am saving up for one more larger RC Truck, I want faster , bigger and good looking, considering the Redcat Machette 4S, I know of the issue, they seem not that big a deal to me and there including all the needed upgrades anyway., Traxxas Sledge or Arma Kraton 6S, No bashing needed here, but it would be fun to hear from the folks that have these and what they like, dislike without hate and top speeds :)
 
Out of all of them the Kraton 6s is the best of them all. Hands down will handle some good bashing runs.

If you want a really bullet proof truck but going to cost a pretty penny and you'd have to build it as a kit try checking out the Tekno MT410 this tho comes as a kit and you'd need to but electronics and other things such as wheels/tires and body separate and it doesn't come built.
 
I 3rd kraton or 2nd MT410. After building my B74.1 which was my first 4wd car and first kit. I love building kits. It's relaxing, and fun. And you can see how the car is out together and see the transformation between a box of parts and a full built up car. I wouldn't go with Traxxas because of there expensive parts and stuff. polarity ID, and there company in general.
 
+1 to Kraton of those listed, really a no brainer, but as others have stated the King of Bashers goes to the TEKNO MT410 if you want to buy once where TEKNO is race grade with far higher quality than any basher grade plus they have a 50% off lifetime warranty which is arguably the best warranty in the industry:
https://www.teknorc.com/warranty-repair/



Sidenote:
I would stay away from Traxxas because they have isolated themselves from the industry by making all their products and components proprietary. They are blocking anyone from making compatible parts and shutting down aftermarket support, more info here:
https://www.rctalk.com/forum/threads/bye-bye-traxxas.137950/
 
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I build my own. It’s fun that way
I have more parts left over cutting welding doing my own and it pays off
 
I agree, if you are willing to look at options other than listed, and you're ok building a kit, the Tekno MT410 is hands down one of the best bashers from what I've seen. I watched a YT vid of a guy building one with full blown Tekin gear, and he launched it multiple times over bmx jumps at a track and it just took them like a tank. I was pretty amazed how durable it was.
 
Kraton 6s is the best bang for the buck on the market right now IMO. Between my brother and I, we have pretty much all the popular 6s bashers currently on the market, the K6 rtr is really the standout for performance and price. My brother bought the Sludge as soon as it was available online, at $800, it's by far the worst value. I have an OG Kaiju, not really fitting into what you're describing, but I love that truck, just a blast to bang around with.
I think the Machete would make a great speed runner, dirt or asphalt..even looks fun on a track🤷‍♂️
 
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I'd like to add, sure I have my preferred brands, but I don't waive anybody's "brand flags".. there's really no reason to be loyal to any of them IMO. Unless you own or are sponsored by them..at which point you're biased by obligation, and rightfully so. I just buy what I like.✌😁
 
Well, I think I purchased the Kraton, I tried anyway, some discount thingy was not working because they never do, Will let you know if it ships or not. Flaps
 
What battery do the owners of the Krayton V5 4x4 recommend, a single 6S or 2 3 S ? for max speed :)
 
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What battery do the owners of the Krayton V5 4x4 recommend, a single 6S or 2 3 S ? for max speed :)
6s brick is generally considered the best way to go. I use 2x3s so I can use the 3s in my 1/10 scale rigs too. 6s can be a problem if a cell goes bad, the whole pack is then bad.. something to think about.
There are folks who can replace a bad cell in a pack, but that's somewhat of an "advanced skills required" thing to do. Not something most should try.
 
...I use 2x3s so I can use the 3s in my 1/10 scale rigs too...

FYI, it's discouraged to mix match usage of packs in series... ideally you want to buy 2 packs as a "matched pair", same specs and brand new while treating them as a single pack, being careful to rotate the packs between each use to evenly distribute the load. More info here:
 
FYI, it's discouraged to mix match usage of packs in series... ideally you want to buy 2 packs as a "matched pair", same specs and brand new while treating them as a single pack, being careful to rotate the packs between each use to evenly distribute the load. More info here:
Yes, sorry, I didn't specify. 2x3s of the same spec battery from same manufacturer. 👍
 
Yes, sorry, I didn't specify. 2x3s of the same spec battery from same manufacturer. 👍
To clarify, once you run split the packs up and run one of them in a 1/10 car then you can shouldn't re-use that respective pack again in series for 6S as 2x3S because they are no longer a matched pair.
 
To clarify, once you run split the packs up and run one of them in a 1/10 car then you can shouldn't re-use that respective pack again in series for 6S as 2x3S because they are no longer a matched pair.
What happens if you do?
 
What happens if you do?

In my case, I ran 2x2S packs in series to create a 4S pack to run in my eBuggy back when LiPo's were first introduced. There was no concept of checking IR on the cells or much information on the net at the time so I kinda winged it.

I mixed 2 batteries that were previously ran in my 4WD SCT, both same brand and identical spec.

What I noticed was that I experience premature voltage cutoff in a 10 min main.... 5 min quals was perfectly fine. Then 1 of the batteries swelled up like a balloon. I bought a brand new battery to replace the swollen one, and the very next race day that brand new battery swelled up too!

I later replaced both batteries with 2 new packs and everything was fine for a while until the same location of battery swelled up again... that's when I discovered that the battery on the "true negative" side of the ESC would get worked harder so I stopped running packs in series. Later on SMC would publish the article I linked above which explained all the issues I was having.

I no longer run packs in series, but if I were to ever do it again, I would be a lot more careful with the setup.
 
The same goes for other battery technologies as well. When you run a pair of batteries together, it's best to never run one separately. When you try to use them as s pair again, they won't discharge at the same rate. At least that is what I was always told 😜
 
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I certainly can't/won't dispute what @bill_delong and @WickedFog are saying. I believe there likely is a negative effect by running a matched set of batteries independent from one another.
I don't dive that deeply into it though. I buy the cheapest batteries that meet my needs. As such, I'm willing to roll the dice if you will.
What are the chances that the 2, 2s packs I bought from amazon are even matched to begin with? Yes, they are from the same manufacturer and of same "specs" but.. who really knows whether they "match"? My guess, they don't.
The idea that running a battery solo is going to change the batteries characteristics or specs enough to matter makes zero sense to me. Maybe it does, IDK..
I agree that every battery has a "limited number of cycles" and therefore looses a bit of life with every cycle.
I will continue to do what makes sense to me until I find a reason not to.
I'm just having fun on my backyard track. If I were into competitive racing, I would surely be more regimented with these things.
 
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