NOOB here Idle problems!!!!!

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Hi there I'm pretty new to this great hobby and have had my fare share of problems. Most of them i fixed my myself but this one is bugging me. The idle on my rs4 3 18ss is screwed up. No matter what i do to the idle screw turn cw or ccw the wheels just keep on spinning. I tried setting the trim on the remote and it goes al the way up to 100 and still slight spin of the wheels. I dont want my clutch to melt.
I have the racing clutch instaled so i know that it wont do it easily. iu was wondering if setting it on the 1st of the three settings of the clutch has anything to do with it? Or if i set the 2 speed tranny to shift too early.should i lean out or richen the fuel? Right now I am totally out of ideas. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

 

[SpitFireV12RR]

You should turn it CW till theres a 1/16 inch gap. I really don't understand what you mean by "wheels turning". Are the wheels turning while being held up in the air? As long as it doesn't move when it's on the ground, you should be fine.

 

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yeah the wheels are spinning at high speed!

 

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Would richening out the lowspeed needle help any?

 

[jetmechG550]

Is your throttle closing all the way (by all the way I mean, no gas no brake, how big is the opening in the carb. You should have about a .016-.020" gap. Is this a new vehicle or did you buy it used? Did you have any wrecks that could have caused the clutch shoes to get hosed? Did you mess with any of the tranny settings for the shift point (I'm not familiar with the HPI two-speed but guessing it is similar to the NTC3 two-speed)?

 

[[email protected]]

Is your throttle closing all the way (by all the way I mean, no gas no brake, how big is the opening in the carb. You should have about a .016-.020" gap. Is this a new vehicle or did you buy it used? Did you have any wrecks that could have caused the clutch shoes to get hosed? Did you mess with any of the tranny settings for the shift point (I'm not familiar with the HPI two-speed but guessing it is similar to the NTC3 two-speed)?

No the clutch is fine...The opening isthe correct size...
I did change the shift point to a turn earlier.

 

[Monkey Wrench]

OK, first, I seriously doubt your shift point setting has anything to do with the idling. So, let's not focus on that right now.

Second, don't start messing with the LSN just yet. It may be a contributor to your fast idle, but I doubt it's really the cause.

So, that leaves us with how the carb barrel is set by the idle screw. Jet mentions making sure that the gap is .016-.020 mm wide. If you are saying that you are at this width, and the clutch is fine, then there's no way it can be idling too fast, right? My hunch is, the idle set screw needs adjusted AND your T/B servo needs re-centered.

I'd first unhook the throttle linkage from the carb and set the idle screw so that the barrel sits at the correct opening while at idle.

Once I have that set, I'd turn my RX and TX on, set my T/B trim to "0" then put my servo arm back on so that the linkage holds the barrel at idle with no input from you (i.e. you're not touching the TX).

I'd at least trying this, see if it cures the problem. If not, we'll have to think of something else.

Good luck!

 

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Monkey...Thanks a bunch

I tried that already set throttle trim to zero while idle screw was tightened at the correct opening of the barrel. That helped none. The speed of the r/c when placed on the floor is pretty fast while at idle, so i really dont know why the that wouldnt solve the problem.

Called HPI said richen the LSN. I tried...now it's a little slower at idle but still moves without giving it throttle. Frustrated!!!!!!!!!

 

[Monkey Wrench]

Shot in the dark...is the clutch spring still on the shoes? Is this a new clutch? I'm wondering if the shoes are on backwards (done that a bunch of times) or if the spring is busted.

When you get the idle screw and set the trim to 0, did you take the horn off the servo and re-center it? If you didn't, it won't matter what else you did.

 

[jetmechG550]

Alright try this since HPI is leaning towards the LSN. Get the car up to temp, make a few short runs, nothing big, nothing hard. Bring it in and pinch the fuel line and start to count. The mill should die in about 5 seconds, any less your too lean, any more and it's too fat. Also on the other note, did you check your opening in the carb with the linkage disconnected? I see where you said you checked it with the trim at zero but what about totally disconnected? Just making sure.

 

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Monkey,
Racingclutch brand new, checked (JIC) not backwards lol!!!! And readjusted servo after linkage was off.

Jetmech,
First off "In and out burger" in san jose da bomb!!!!!!!!
Yes themill goes at the right time it seems a little to rich though alot of oilcoming from exhaust. And the carb opening was set with the linkage totally off b4 i put it back on.

Again people thanks for taking the time to read and try to helpme out!!!!!
Much love to the RCNT family!!!!!!

 

[jetmechG550]

Does the tranny on that thing have a one way bearing in the center hub?

 

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yes! it sure does

 

[jetmechG550]

Might be reaching here, but my NTC3 blew that OWB and it caused me some strife for a while to someone here told me to check that. Little history on my situation...I snapped the rod and after it was when my problems started. It also ruined the two little springs that are under the adjustment screws which further caused problems. Just a thought.

 

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nah i really doubt that beacause it runs well at full throttle.

 

[supersavage]

Does the engine actually idle high, or does it seem about right but the wheels keep turning?

 

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Does the engine actually idle high, or does it seem about right but the wheels keep turning?

For the first 30 seconds yes. After i brake it slows down but the car still moves but engine has little strain. I dont want to try driving it hard yet until i get the idle just right.

 

[supersavage]

I believe this is what you are working with:

Its the same setup as my mt2. I could get it to idle fine, but when I hit the brakes hard it would kill the engine (somehow closing the idle gap too far). To get it to stay running would leave the idle way high (not really turning wheels, though). I eliminated the cheesy stock servo arm assembly and went with this:

Havent had a problem like it since.

Anybody else got some ideas?

 

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Thats a great setup...Wouldn't know where to start with that lol.
I dont want tochange from stock to much. Its just bugging me so much that after getting my gear mesh right to getting the actual engine to start was 10 times easier than setting a freaking idle.

 

[Monkey Wrench]

Actually Chef, I'd go with the set-up SuperSavage posted ('cause I am, thanks a ton, man!) My MT had the same issues Super described; set idle to right setting, but when I hit the brakes it'd kill the engine.

When your truck is idling and on the ground, can you tell if the CB is actually spinning? Truthfully, I'm running out of ideas. We need some more brains thinking on this one!