Nitro MT2

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WolF_UK

RC Newbie
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Hi all



So i just acquired (given to me) a nitro MT 2 18ss. Doesn't look in bad condition just very dirty and gunky, so first thoughts were to strip down and clean. Apparently been sat in a barn for a very long time. So stripped and cleaned the Engine with carb cleaner and looks like out of the showroom now. Next is all the other parts running gear etc.

Just wondered if anyone can tell if' or what' this model may share itself with for new or hop up parts. Maybe add some tougher parts to it than stock.

Going to be looking for a cheap 2.4ghz radio equipment as i threw the old type MHz in the bin. So any recommends on cheap radio set would be good too.

And also any recommendations for buying spares etc online would be great.

Anyhow thanks in advance, time to get stuck into forum.
 
It was a replacement for the NitroMT and I don't believe it shares much with anything else. Maybe a few things with an onroad RS4 or something. They made the MT2 better than the MT. Stronger arms, has an actual slipper and good spur gear, engine isn't as crappy, shock mounting is better... basically, just better all around.
 
It was a replacement for the NitroMT and I don't believe it shares much with anything else. Maybe a few things with an onroad RS4 or something. They made the MT2 better than the MT. Stronger arms, has an actual slipper and good spur gear, engine isn't as crappy, shock mounting is better... basically, just better all around.
Hi thanks for the info.
It all seems in very good condition after giving it a good clean. Will re-grease it all up etc and stick a 2.4ghz controller on it and see how it runs.
Like i say never had one and its a freebie so can't go far wrong. Maybe if something breaks may just mod it if i can't find replacements.
just a starter for a bit of fun.
can you recommend what type of fuel to run in it .......
If i enjoy playing maybe buy something newer.
 
There happens to be a raffle for a nice, low dollar and very capable radio right here in this very forum!!! Wink wink...
Depending on how many channels you need, the spectrum radio is a pretty good choice.
 
Any time. If you have questions, we've got answers! Hold out for a day or 2 on this and I'll bet someone who actually owns one will fill in the blanks for you.
While you may want to think about upgrades etc...
My first suggestion is that you get a manual for it. Read thru the whole thing and be familiar with pretty much everything. Get it running well and use it, see if it's really lacking anything... My bet is that you'll be very happy with it straight up stock. Maybe gear ratio changes, a better clutch set up, shocks and springs, tires too. As far as buying more things just to say you have them... Eh, not really necessary. Even the things I mentioned, not necessary unless you decide they are. They are great little rigs right out of the box!
What I Def recommend is to be sure you have a QUALITY radio, which you're already in top of. You want to be sure that you have a fail-safe set up on it as well as a throttle return spring. The spring is a lifesaver if you ever loose your battery power suddenly!
Since this rig has been sitting, I would prob invest in some new fuel lines, a fresh filter, be sure the tank is clean and still seals correctly (if you didn't already do this during your clean up). Make sure you have a new or at least a STRONG rx battery pack for it. MT's tend to draw more juice from the servos turning those big tires!
I also recommend you go thru the break in process since you don't know what fuel was being run in the truck before you. I totally agree with @olds97_lss . Byron's fuel or something with a strong oil ratio is the way to go. Don't be cheap with the fuel! ;) Be sure to rebuild the shocks, get some,fresh oil in there, be sure the seals are good. Check out your diffs, trans etc... Inspect for any damage and fix anything funky before you even start it. (again, that is if you haven't already done this during your clean up)
Other than that, just have fun! I'd love to know how you make out with it! Post some pics, shoot a video running it!
Good luck! (don't forget to enter the raffle too!)

Oh yeah... I STRONGLY urge you to stay away from aluminum upgrades. An alum belcrank or maybe hubs, that sort of stuff is ok if it's needed but stay away from things like A-arms and that sort. They tend to take the impact and simply move it to the next part in... In other words, the a-arm would have broken, but instwad, the aluminum takes the impact, get bent or broken anyways, and shifts the impact energy to the bulkhead and breaks that instead... Not worth the price for the bling or the aggravation!

Also, Welcome to RCNT!!!:welcome_sign:
 
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Thanks guys,

Awesome advice and tips there. lot of stuff to follow up on.
Here's some pic's to start. have started stripping down so will keep you posted. And thanks for the heads up on the aluminium parts as i was thinking of maybe upgrading later but think ill scrap that idea now. Definitely like you said i will keep it stock for now and only upgrade necessary parts when needed or broken. The filter is a cheap bit i picked up. dont want to spend out on good stuff if it's not running. Keeping it cheap untill i Know it's a runner.
 

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Couple of shots from the box. And some fuel and some oil i picked up from local store.

Oh btw

Like your idea of posting a Video of it running. It just so happens my brother pipped me to the post of spending a fair few hundred on a Drone. Got a really nice camera on it with awesome HD, can be his first flight Challenge capturing footage of a moving target ;) Maybe i'll try a few Jumps to knock it out of the Air LoL not being jealous or anything Hehehe
 

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Lmao!!! That would be too look funny!!! The footage of you slamming a jump and taking out the drone!!!! :hehe:
Looks like you've done well so far! The fuel should do well. I forgot to mention this to you as well... Def do want to have a few extra glow plugs around. Esp good to have extras during the break in... I'm sure that the break in will go smoothly, esp where it's already been run. Just going by engine manufacturers' suggestions on the break in when changing fuels. It can't hurt for sure!
Yeah, you'll see what is needed to make the truck more reliable durable etc... Soon enough. Again, I'm sure someone has one of these buggies in their collection who may have a few pointers too.
Def work on that video!!!
 
I wont aim for it .... Promise !! haha

Any recommendations on how to clean the Tank thoroughly.
Seal seems very good and tight, Rubber seems good not perished.
 
So cleaned the tank with warm water, Slushed it round and emptied a few times. Let it dry and put a little fuel in, let it sit for a while and slushed around and emptied. Rinse repeat a few times and looks pretty clean now. Also found a D/L manual from HPI so now know where bits go/how they go back together lol.
 
Hey guy's

Soo all cleaned and de-greased/re-greased and back together. Gave her a run and it seemed to be leaking fuel when running between the Engine and Cooler.
Found an Old post you commented on Olds97 about checking the seal and plug. So stripped down the top re-cleaned and tightened and re-cleaned and tightened the GP. Started her up and Bang running and no leak this time. Done a quick Video of her running. Seems constant and smoke from exhaust is more visible to the eye than on film. Run a full tank in stationery position through it. Maybe hard to tell, but just wondered how it sounded to you guys on idle.

<iframe width="560" height="315" src="
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Looks like your getting some spittle out of the pipe, which is good for rich settings. Idle sounds a tad on the high side though.
 
Hi mate,

Yeah i was looking at that, running the second tank through i did get a little more spittle than in the vid and was wondering if it was a good sign or bad.
Also did think it sounded on the high side. Was thinking i might have the throttle servo arm set too high. if you look in the vid i think you can see the arm set in the middle I've set this more toward the rear axle, but not so far as to break being applied whilst in idle. and removing air filter visually set the carb to about 1-2mm open . noticed that when i push throttle forward there was still more travel left to be had on the carb before hand so hopefully this all good now...
 
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When setting up, breaking in a motor, the fist thing you need to do is set the idle stop. If that is set and it's a servo or some radio setting... Carry on... Lol! Just wanted to make sure you we're aware of that little tid-bit. It does sound like the idle is high. As far as the spittle goes, before you get too crazy worrying about it, I would twist your muffler down a bit so the exhaust is blowing more downwards... The muffler will load up with condensed/'rich setting' fuel if it continues to sit like that and could potentially cause you issues... Like spittle. ;) the rig is looking KILLER tho! Excellent work!!!
 
When setting up, breaking in a motor, the fist thing you need to do is set the idle stop. If that is set and it's a servo or some radio setting... Carry on... Lol! Just wanted to make sure you we're aware of that little tid-bit. It does sound like the idle is high. As far as the spittle goes, before you get too crazy worrying about it, I would twist your muffler down a bit so the exhaust is blowing more downwards... The muffler will load up with condensed/'rich setting' fuel if it continues to sit like that and could potentially cause you issues... Like spittle. ;) the rig is looking KILLER tho! Excellent work!!!
The MT2 has a 1 position pipe hanger, so he can't really angle it down. It's a plastic dodad that holds the pipe exactly like it is on his rig.

To expand on the "idle", when the radio is at "neutral" or "home" (not touching the trigger), there should be a hair gap in your throttle linkage with the servo pushing the throttle against the idle screw on the carb. So, when you apply brakes, the idle slide in the carb should not move at all. It should already be forcefully resting against the idle screw in the carb. Without this, you will end up chasing your tune all over the place to try and get it to idle right.

This kid kind of explains it, but doesn't overly explain the linkage gap. You basically want your idle to be mechanically set, not electronically via the transmitter. It's ok to increase the idle via trim for break-in, but for normal running, the throttle servo should be pushing the throttle a little past where the carb is set so it consistently gives you the same mechanical idle the idle screw is set to.
 
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That is exactly correct. Thank you for clarifying. I am always open to explaining myself better but I feel like when I write a book, explaining in detail that I'm preaching... And likely to someone who is already very familiar. Lol!
As far as the exhaust hanger goes, I would probably go as far as finding a different hanger to tilt that exhaust down... I understand tho. That's kind of a crap set up to keep it locked like that. I don't know if that's a different pipe or what but if it fills with oil/fuel, it's gonna create issues. I would go out of my way to adjust that, if that was my rig.
 
Once it gets up to speed/RPM, it will keep itself pretty cleared out. I've had a few pipes like that on similar trucks and while they would kind of collect oil when breaking in, they would blow most of it out once you really started running it.

I would get a little exhaust extender though to point it down at the ground a bit:
https://www.rcplanet.com/1_10_Exhaust_Deflector_Gray_p/rce10178gy.htm

You can cut some of the end off, but still have the elbow so it points some of the mess at the ground vs all over your rear arm/shock/wheel/body.
 
Lol! Wasn't even going there in my head... Excellent point! Def want that thing headed out and down and not all over the body and tires!!! If you don't want to go online for that exhaust tip, pretty much anywhere that carries traxxas should have them. I'd imagine the shipping would exceed the cost of the deflector but if you have another order planned, you DEF want to make sure that's on the list!!!
 
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