Nitro engine priming and starting difficulties (needs help)

[olds97_lss]

If the glow plug is still good ,you can JB weld it in ,they use JB weld as a filler when modding engines ,so it
sticks real well ,it has to cure for 24 hrs ,that will get you by until you find a new one!

Your not going to damage that one anymore than what it is ,I would give it a go!...

Make sure to do it with the head button off the engine. Don't want to risk getting jb-weld down inside.

 

[Hwrd442]

Wonder if you could use the head button from
the F3.5

 

[Bluetickduke]

I had the same problem with my savage xl 5.9 and my mgt 8.0.

I had an air leak

??‍

Go over everything. Seal up everything! It'll save you alot of headaches in the long run I promise!

Definitely replace fuel lines even if they "look" okay. A little pin hole is hard to see but will screw you soooo hard it's not even funny.

I'd definitely get a new gasket for that exhaust too

 

[Geri]

I had the same problem with my savage xl 5.9 and my mgt 8.0.

I had an air leak

??‍

Go over everything. Seal up everything! It'll save you alot of headaches in the long run I promise!

Definitely replace fuel lines even if they "look" okay. A little pin hole is hard to see but will screw you soooo hard it's not even funny.

I'd definitely get a new gasket for that exhaust too

Thanks for the suggestion and for sharing your experiences with me. I will order those parts as soon as i can, until then i would like to try to start it at least. It gives no sign of life. I successfully glued the glow plug to its place with a two component epoxy, it seems perfect. When i try to start it, sometimes some smoke is coming off, and i can hear (i guess) a few explosions (kind of) but the engine still wont run on its own( it wont even start). I tried playing with the needles and found out that the carb rotates quite easily a few (10-15) degrees. Could that be a problem? I tried disassembling it with no luck. I got out the one screw holding it and then pulling it and rotating it as hard as i could, but its still on there, on the engine block. I think i should apply some silicone to the connection between the carburetor and the engine block, thats why i wanted to take it apart. Any suggestions what i should try? Id really love to at least start the engine for a few seconds, and order new parts for it (which will arrive in a few months due to covid). Thanks for your answers and if you have any suggestions I'm happy to read them!

 

[Bluetickduke]

Seal that bad boy up! It should NOT move

 

[cbaker65]

Thanks for the suggestion and for sharing your experiences with me. I will order those parts as soon as i can, until then i would like to try to start it at least. It gives no sign of life. I successfully glued the glow plug to its place with a two component epoxy, it seems perfect. When i try to start it, sometimes some smoke is coming off, and i can hear (i guess) a few explosions (kind of) but the engine still wont run on its own( it wont even start). I tried playing with the needles and found out that the carb rotates quite easily a few (10-15) degrees. Could that be a problem? I tried disassembling it with no luck. I got out the one screw holding it and then pulling it and rotating it as hard as i could, but its still on there, on the engine block. I think i should apply some silicone to the connection between the carburetor and the engine block, thats why i wanted to take it apart. Any suggestions what i should try? Id really love to at least start the engine for a few seconds, and order new parts for it (which will arrive in a few months due to covid). Thanks for your answers and if you have any suggestions I'm happy to read them!

That the slide barrel ,if I am not mistaking ,the idle set screw holds that on to keep it from falling out ,but to seal the carb
right ,you should take it off an seal it with that Permatex copper sensor safe sealer ,you might can just use a tiny zip
tie on that boot ,I think that I did one of my carbs that way with a zip tie!

 

[Geri]

That the slide barrel ,if I am not mistaking ,the idle set screw holds that on to keep it from falling out ,but to seal the carb
right ,you should take it off an seal it with that Permatex copper sensor safe sealer ,you might can just use a tiny zip
tie on that boot ,I think that I did one of my carbs that way with a zip tie!

Thank you all for the help! Today i successfully started the engine. I'm very happy with it, still need to fine tune the needles, excess fuel comes out form the exhaust pipe. Thank you once again!

 

[Bluetickduke]

I had the same issue. I did a 1/4 turn at a time until fuel stopped coming out. You will have to adjust your idle as well as you get closer to your optimum tune.

Keep an eye on temperature and remember it's okay to run a little rich but a little lean leads to catastrophe eventually!