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Nitro Car Help

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dakiddfb

RC Newbie
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rockland county
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Hey Everyone,

I am new to the nitro scene and picked up a car off of Ebay.
A couple of my buddies have the RS4 and those cars are a blast.
So i picked up a Duratrax Groundforce Nitro Car with controller RTR.
When i recieved it, the yank eliminator was not there so off to the hobby shop and they installed a jump start to start it up with a drill. I charge the glow plug ignitor all night but still will not start today. The car has fuel, compression, and the glow plug seems decent, just won't start up... Anyone got any ideas. I am going to run to the hobby shop and pick up some glow plugs hopefully thats it... what do you guys think....
 
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well i was going to say replace glow plug..but your already going to do it. i was thinking maybe u should find out what factory settings are on all fuel screws, idle low and high. Reset them all and play with idle. Maybe its too rich right now. I dont know your elevation in NY and also dont know where the car came from, so that will have an affect on the car after its running also.
 
hey man i have been doing some research as to why it will not start. I put in a new glow plug and still a no go. Duratraxx manual states that it could be the high speed idle but I don't know if i should richen it or lean it. Below is the exert from the manual PDF. Should I try to reset all the setting screws to default. I bought the car used from Ebay... I guess that was my mistake. I would like to try to get it to run if not i will try to get my money back through paypal.

"The High-Speed Needle
The “high-speed” needle is sticking up from the side of
the carb. It is located in the brass housing, just above
the fuel inlet. It controls the fuel-to-air mixture of the
carb. The needle is pre-set for break-in from the
factory at 2-1/2 turns out from the fully closed position
of the carb. Once the engine is broken-in, the highspeed
needle would typically run from 2 to 2-1/2 turns
out from closed, depending on the weather, humidity
and altitude above sea level. To richen turn the needle
counterclockwise, to lean turn the needle clockwise."

Thanks in advance... I'm just a noob trying to enjoy it for the first time....
 
Welcome aboard dakidd, one of the most common mistakes for a beginner is overpriming the engine. Follow thse steps:

1. Turn on all electronics. Remove the air filter, work the throttle and watch the opening in the carb. When you let go of the trigger, it should still have about a 2mm opening, about the thickness of a credit card. If it closes completely, you're getting no air. Adjust the idle speed screw, turning it IN, until you do.
2. REPLACE AIR FILTER and never run your nitro without it.
3. Remove the glow plug. While it's out, put the glow warmer on it and make sure it glows nice and bright.
4. With the glow plug out, turn the vehicle upside-down and turn over the engine a couple times. The idea is to drain out excess fuel.
5. Re-insert the glow plug. If you haven't "primed" it yet, plug the exhaust with your finger and watch the fuel line. Crank it over a couple times until the fuel just comes up to the carb - no more. The mistake usually made here is pumping too much fuel into the engine.

Now give it a shot.

I would like to try to get it to run if not i will try to get my money back through paypal.

Please understand what I'm about to say is constructive. Do not blame the seller for your inability to start the engine, you already said it's got compression, fuel, and a glow plug, from what you've told us there should be nothing wrong with the engine. If you try the above and still have problems, keep asking questions - nitro has a bit of a learning curve and will take you a little while to get the hang of it, plenty here willing to help.
 
ok i did what you said and when i turn everything on electronics and remote. the carb is about the 2mm open. when i pull the trigger the carb opens completely. It seems to be doing the complete opposite of what you stated above. Did i do something wrong?
 
No you got it - you're mis-reading:

When you let go of the trigger, it should still have about a 2mm opening,

So this is the "idle" position, and it's holding open at around 2mm. This is good. How about the glow plug when you put the warmer on it while it's out of the engine, did it glow nice and bright? If so, go for it, try not to over-prime it and see if it starts.
 
rocknbil said:
5. ... The mistake usually made here is pumping too much fuel into the engine.

If you think you have over primed it, take out the glow plug, turn the car over so the engine is upside down and crank the starter a few times to blow out the excess fuel. Put the glow plug back in and try to start it without priming it.

I couldn't view your photo's... Weird format?
 
^ ^ LOL . . . I wasn't going to say anything . . . . WTDR file? We-Todd-Did-Racing, I know . . . but anyway . . . I will refrain from the RC Special Olympics jokes. :D
 
sorry about the links its just the only place that i know that i could host pictures for free. i post pics alot of my car parts that i have for sale and stuff....

Well turns out the my RC car had a bad clutch.
Took it to the hobby shop, and the guy worked on it
swapped out the clutch taught me a bunch about the car.
drove it around and its a blast alot faster than i expected it to me.

Today i hit a curb broke the rear left shock, and dog bone is missing....
Off to the hobby shop i go for parts...

any tips on getting the steering straight... seems like something up with it but no matter how much i play with the trim never gets perfect.

pics attached...
 

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Try adjusting your servo horn. Its the plastic piece that is screwed into your servo. It might be turned to one side to much.
 
Does it not steer correctly or does it have a tendency to wander instead of run in a straight line? On-road cars are really sensitive to camber/toe/ackerman adjustments. Also, shocks that aren't perfect will make it wander. If you have one shock a little longer somewhere, it will throw it out of wack. Also, sloppy ball ends/suspension parts will make it wander.

Give it a good once over before going to the LHS. You might need to pick up a few ball ends or arms due to wear.

That's why I like MT's and buggies. Point it, gas it, point it, gas it... You don't have to worry as much about tight suspension parts or alignment settings. One good wreck and it's all messed up again anyway...
 
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