Newb question on Glow plugs, glow sticks, and pull starts.

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SVORay

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My first newb question is on the glow plug it's self. Is it bad to run the truck after it's started without the blue wire attached to the plug and will this extend the life of the plug?


Now what is the advantage to a glow plug igniter vs the stock blue wire set up? Also if you switch to a glow stick, do you just simply cut or unplug the blue wire from your wiring harness?

I'm just wondering since I seem to go through plugs a lot and yes I try to keep the truck(s) running close enough to the 230 -270 range.

Also, what is the main advantage of a pull start. I'm thinking of converting my revo's .15 to a pull start. Is it hard to start one with a pull start...I mean do you ware your fingures out trying to start it with a pull start vs an easy start?

Thanks
Ray
 
1..No it's not bad to not use the blue wire...all it does is take power from the starter battery and ignite the plug while you're starting up...

2.. advantage is the starter battery will let you turn the mill over longer....batt. won't get juced by the plug...yes you just unplug the blue wire.....

3..what are your plugs looking like when you pull them out...if the coil is twisted up you're too lean...if it's black you're too rich......if ti's in between try a different plug brand.....I used Q plugs on my 2.5 and they worked well....

4..I personally hate pull starts....bump start on the racers and I had the EZ starter on my maxx.....it was just for putzing around the park anyway....
 
I hate pullstarts on big blocks, but on a Maxx size engine or on a TC such as the RS .12 I have I can get the car started after priming in about 2 pulls.

If you go to a pull start and glow plug ignitor just cut the blue wire and get a good sub-c cell rechargeable GP ignitor, such as the Dunro one.
 
Hey thanks guys or girls....you never know these days :)



Anyways, does having the blue wire pluged into the GP drain power or keep the GP glowing more than it should?


Also, I've had a few black GP's before but have since learn to tune the truck a little better. The last plugs I've replaced have been pretty clean and didn't look all twisted up. I use the Mccoy m59 glow plugs.
 
The blue wire goes dead once you stop pressing on the EZ Start button, but it does take some battery power away from the starter motor.

MC 59 is a great plug for the stock motor. Best to run that with 20% fuel.
 
SVORay said:
Hey thanks guys or girls....you never know these days :)



Anyways, does having the blue wire pluged into the GP drain power or keep the GP glowing more than it should?
Once the ignitor is removed the plug should stay lit. If not your settings are off. Normally if it dies is because the setting is rich on a needle.


SVORay said:
Also, I've had a few black GP's before but have since learn to tune the truck a little better. The last plugs I've replaced have been pretty clean and didn't look all twisted up. I use the Mccoy m59 glow plugs.
The content of nitro should be a factor of what glow plug you use. If you use lower percent Nitro than you may want to use a hotter plug. I was using a MC59 plug when i was using 20% but I changed to a medium when I changed to 30%. There will be different opinions due to different areas. Research this topic more so you can get a better understanding.
Jon2
 
SVORay said:
Now what is the advantage to a glow plug igniter vs the stock blue wire set up?


I've also HEARD that you get more power to the gp resulting in a easyer start with a gp driver over using the blue wire
 
retarded pilot said:
I've also HEARD that you get more power to the gp resulting in a easyer start with a gp driver over using the blue wire
Very true since you are not drawing power for the EZ Start. Its power is more consistent. I would remove the Blue wire and get a separate Glow plug ingnitor.

Jon2
 
Thanks people.

I'm using a M59 GP with 20% fuel...Sorry I didn't mention the fuel sooner. Once I get me a decent radio with a fail safe, I'll look into buying a glow igniter.


Ray
 
IMO, Ray, whack the entire EZ start system and add a rotostart. Sure, the EZ start with the GP heater is nice, but unless you have a fresh pack in the starter itself, the GP won't get hot enough to start. When that happens, it fouls the GP. I used the on-board GP set-up maybe three times then just clipped the blue lead and went to a stand alone ignitor, made things a lot easier.

After a few rolls that clipped the little ears off the EZ start motor, I finally decided to just ace the whole set-up and go with a Duratraxx rotostart set-up. I bought the initial set-up for $35.00 for my Savage, then bought adapter plates for my Revo, MT and RC10GT. Now I just have to carry one starter, don't have to worry about EZ start ears being clipped and don't have to curse like a drunk sailor when I yank on a pullstart! The additonal plates were only $10.00 too!
 
THe Duratrash setup...how's that holding up? I sorta threw that out of MY choices because it used 2 batteries. I'm looking into the Ofna setup for my buggy. It'd be cool if somehow you could rig an ESC up to a Rotostart system and plug it in the third channel and when you pressed the button it started up, rather than bending down! Just another way to make this this fattest country on earth!

P.S. I might try that actually!
 
Well, Spit, seeing as how all of my rigs are running and yours is, uh, in pieces, I'd say my Duratrash set-up is holding up just fine, thanks for asking. Personally, I like the two battery set-up because I know I have enough power to start my rig up and I don't have to worry about charging it nearly as often. I don't know very much about the Ofna set-up, but from what I gather, it's a good option as well.

As for the ESC working a rotostart, good luck with that. It'll be interesting to see if you can rig something up.
 
My advice.....RD Racing Products Starter Box! Love it, love it, love it!!!
 
From my very limited experience,,,, tune it well, prime it well, up the idle position trim a bit, and have plenty of current through the GP,, and a Pull start is only a simple, 1 pull device that starts the combustion process,, ;)
When It fires, give it about 15 secs or so at a high idle throttle trim,,and slowly back it off.


Jeep
 
Last edited:
Jeep, you NAILED it! That is how I have found my PS mills to be. Keep them clean, in tune and everything tip top for the first start of the day and it will fire everytime.
 
Revo Rancher said:
Jeep, you NAILED it! That is how I have found my PS mills to be. Keep them clean, in tune and everything tip top for the first start of the day and it will fire everytime.

Well Revo, alot of what I said,I learned from you in a direct and not so direct way, but I can say this, The last 4 times I started mine cold, from sitting a week or so, It fired off first pull all 4 times, and if I get anxious and try to load it before running temp is close, I KNOW without any doubt, that all I need do is stick the glow heater on and pull ONCE, she will be running,,so much so in fact, I'll be removing the glow heater as I let go of the P/start.

Jeep
 
I usualy can get my Revo started in a few seconds. It's all about the fuel in the fuel line for it and keeping it some what tuned right. I just pull the body off and watch the fuel line. Then I stick my finger over the tail pipe while I crank her over. Once the fuel reaches the carb I unplug my fingure from the tail pipe. The truck almost always cranks over taking about a minute including removing the body to get her running. This trick can and will flood the truck if done for to long. The Revo has a long fuel line as apossed to something like a Tmaxx...doing this on a Tmaxx takes no half a second it seems since it's line is very short.
 
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