Newb Clutch Question

Welcome to RCTalk

Come join other RC enthusiasts! You'll be able to discuss, share and private message with other members of our community.

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

NinoS

RCTalk Basher
Messages
70
Reaction score
39
Location
Norfolk va
RC Driving Style
  1. Bashing
I want to see what a new clutch will do for this Smarttech Winner touring car i have acquired, as it is crawling too much on me even with a low idle unless i hold the brakes. I've inspected the clutch and have no idea if it's worn or not, but everything is intact at least.

My question is, with this car being hard to find parts for, how crucial is it that the clutch i purchase looks identical to the stock one? I found a two shoe clutch that looks similar, but the groove for the spring is not centered laterally across the side profile of the shoes, whereas on the stock the groove is right in the middle. The hole on each shoe appears to be the same, and the shape does too for the most part. I also have a dremel and reamer if need be.

I guess the better question is, what dimensions/aspects of the clutch must be identical for it to fit an engine? This engine is an "SMT .15" but looks very similar to the redcat engines i see around on line.

I've already put too much $$$ into this thing, despite (or perhaps because) being able to get it running. I guess if i bought a new one i wouldn't have the fun or education of fixing all this stuff up!!

FYI - i'm aware parts are available in Australia, but i'd like to know about fitting other parts :) if I can source clutch shoes without spending $10 on shipping that would help, especially for future reference.
 
I want to see what a new clutch will do for this Smarttech Winner touring car i have acquired, as it is crawling too much on me even with a low idle unless i hold the brakes. I've inspected the clutch and have no idea if it's worn or not, but everything is intact at least.

My question is, with this car being hard to find parts for, how crucial is it that the clutch i purchase looks identical to the stock one? I found a two shoe clutch that looks similar, but the groove for the spring is not centered laterally across the side profile of the shoes, whereas on the stock the groove is right in the middle. The hole on each shoe appears to be the same, and the shape does too for the most part. I also have a dremel and reamer if need be.

I guess the better question is, what dimensions/aspects of the clutch must be identical for it to fit an engine? This engine is an "SMT .15" but looks very similar to the redcat engines i see around on line.

I've already put too much $$$ into this thing, despite (or perhaps because) being able to get it running. I guess if i bought a new one i wouldn't have the fun or education of fixing all this stuff up!!

FYI - i'm aware parts are available in Australia, but i'd like to know about fitting other parts :) if I can source clutch shoes without spending $10 on shipping that would help, especially for future reference.

Been there done that!...

If you need to dremel the groove were the spring lines up ,do it ,as long as the spring
doesn't ride on to the clutch bell an you have plenty meat on the shoes!

My suggestion ,is to do an ofna 3 shoe set up fly wheel an shoes!...:cool:
 
Been there done that!...

If you need to dremel the groove were the spring lines up ,do it ,as long as the spring
doesn't ride on to the clutch bell an you have plenty meat on the shoes!

My suggestion ,is to do an ofna 3 shoe set up fly wheel an shoes!...:cool:

Thanks for the tips! Sounds like i will know what you mean with the groove dremelling if I end up having to do it! Also i'm not sure why i didn't think about being able to just mount an entirely new clutchbell and matching clutch setup - or perhaps my cheap streak prevented the thought - but good to know going forward.

I actually ordered a new engine after this post, further putting me in the hole on this car, but of course i've found ways to justify it - e.g. "i can use the engine for other vehicles". The current engine is at least on the wrong side of it's prime, even if it's not toast yet. What i'll do is take my lumps setting up the clutch with the old engine, then once i'm confident I know what i'm doing and I'm sure have the parts playing nice, install the new engine.
 
Thanks for the tips! Sounds like i will know what you mean with the groove dremelling if I end up having to do it! Also i'm not sure why i didn't think about being able to just mount an entirely new clutchbell and matching clutch setup - or perhaps my cheap streak prevented the thought - but good to know going forward.

I actually ordered a new engine after this post, further putting me in the hole on this car, but of course i've found ways to justify it - e.g. "i can use the engine for other vehicles". The current engine is at least on the wrong side of it's prime, even if it's not toast yet. What i'll do is take my lumps setting up the clutch with the old engine, then once i'm confident I know what i'm doing and I'm sure have the parts playing nice, install the new engine.

If you can find Ofna products they are pretty much versatile on the clutch assemblies on any size
engines ,weather it be small block or big ,an you may still keep the clutch bell , but if not ,just make sure you pick the matching pitch & tooth count!...:cool:
 
When the clutch shoes broke on my Kyosho, I went ahead and picked the first pack of HPI Racing shoes that might or might not have worked on my stock 2-shoe flywheel. Turned out they fit even better than the factory ones. I also added new springs, of course.
So chances are that any .15 engine parts will fit on any .15 engines. Don't take my word for it, though. You'd be better off visiting an RC shop and checking the shoes before you buy them.
 
Thanks much @cbaker65 and @EvhCo (any relation to EVH guitar gear?) I was able to mount the plastic (nylon perhaps?) clutch. I have some extra space, maybe a couple mm to the Eclip because the new clutch is not as wide as the stock one, but longitudinal movement of the clutch shoes on the shaft doesn't seem to be a problem - plus the shoes are pretty stiff around the shaft anyway. Bottom line is the clutch works great!! No movement at idle and doesn't seem to slip.

I made a video of the entire engine replacement...basically a log of a noob engine swap from unbox to break in...

edit: first thing done after this video was to glue the tires! Wanted to make sure it was necessary before glueing them...apparently it was!
 
Last edited:
I wanted to share some of the posts that I recommend EVERY 'noob' check out... Over and over and over again! This is the stuff that will help you to solidify and no longer be the 'noob'!

https://www.rcnitrotalk.com/forum/threads/nitro-rc-beginners-guide.68224/



https://www.rcnitrotalk.com/forum/threads/nitro-tuning-tips-and-tuning-flow-chart.60832/

https://www.rcnitrotalk.com/forum/threads/glow-plugs-dos-donts-tech-and-tips.113922/#post-1111694

Read and print out the info you have here. This really is 'NITRO GOLD' info!!!
May I make a couple suggestions (you may have already done these, the vid cuts... When you set your pinion. Use a piece of paper to gap the 2 gears correctly. Be sure you have snugged up the carb pinch bolt under the carb. Often times, a new engine will be shipped with that bolt loose for ease of installation and it's easily overlooked. It will cause an airleak. Also, be sure the idle gap screw has been set so that you will be adjusting the carb from a proper baseline. You want your gap at 1mm. You will find this info covered in the links I posted however, I understand all too well the excitement you're experiencing with a new engine and it's easy to overlook. ;)

I am SUPER EXCITED to see when you get this they break in and get the pinion matched to the proper spur for your .15 to.18 increase! I wish I could see your face light up when you see how much of a difference the .18 is going to make on your performance!!!
Read and understand all the info on those links! Any questions and just about all of us 'oold timers' here can get you straightened out quick!:rolex:

Good luck and PLEASE, keep the vids coming!!!:thumbs-up:
 
@Certified Mike Thanks a ton for that info I will do that. I did not even consider the gear ratio going to a bigger engine, i would with a different electric motor so should have made the connection. I will read up to know which way to go.

On the pinion i used to use the paper trick on electrics but have had better luck (e.g. less noise and more longevity) by snugging them up when loose, then turning the spur gear to back them out to a natural mesh. I know paper works well for alot of people, I'm probably doing it wrong! But found something that works at least.

Once I've done something, then reading up on it sticks better in the noggin...gonna go through that info later.

Had a wreck showing of for the neighbor yesterday...bump in the street, car did a triple axle flip...bent a wheel...should have known better as I've been there done that with electric touring car. plenty of replacements on hand. Just dont match!

Now that it runs well, new body time! This thing has 259mm wheelbase so there plenty of tamiyas that will fit.
 
@Certified Mike Thanks a ton for that info I will do that. I did not even consider the gear ratio going to a bigger engine, i would with a different electric motor so should have made the connection. I will read up to know which way to go.

On the pinion i used to use the paper trick on electrics but have had better luck (e.g. less noise and more longevity) by snugging them up when loose, then turning the spur gear to back them out to a natural mesh. I know paper works well for alot of people, I'm probably doing it wrong! But found something that works at least.

Once I've done something, then reading up on it sticks better in the noggin...gonna go through that info later.

Had a wreck showing of for the neighbor yesterday...bump in the street, car did a triple axle flip...bent a wheel...should have known better as I've been there done that with electric touring car. plenty of replacements on hand. Just dont match!

Now that it runs well, new body time! This thing has 259mm wheelbase so there plenty of tamiyas that will fit.

Yea ,when your use to working on RC's ,you can pretty much eye ball the gear mesh!...:D

If that is a 2spd tranny ,then you really don't have to worry about changing the gear ratio!....:cool:

Getter fixed ,an bash on ,ENJOY BRO!....:cheers:
 

Similar threads

Back
Top