hello fellas, I am working on a used revo that I recently purchased. Giving it the once over and have several issues. Most are minor, loose screws and adjustments mainly but I hope you guys can answer two questions. This revo has been pretty heavily modded, lots of alum and an os tm .18, how can I tell if it was originally a 2.5 or 3.3 revo? second question. It will roll forward but not backwards, tires just lockup when rolled back. It has the forward only close ratio trans, will that account for the lack of reverse roll? LHS said trans type has no bearing on this issue and therefore something must be broken in transmission. seller says it's the way it goes with forward only transmission. No reverse roll with this mod. Opinions pls.
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New/used revo
- Thread starter jimc
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Lgeisz
Gone - bye bye.
the body would say 3.3 under Revo if it's a 3.3... If you Don't have a body, check the radio sys. it may have changed between the two models.
My car doesn't have reverse, just a normal 1 speed tranny, and it rolls both ways.... don't know if this helps, but it's worth a shot.:\
- Thread starter
- #3
well, answered 2nd question myself regarding the not rolling backwards issue. Rolls back and forth fine after setting the spur/bell mesh. It was absolutely jammed together! what's up with that?
No body and questionable as to the originality of the radio gear, but thanks Lgeisz
No body and questionable as to the originality of the radio gear, but thanks Lgeisz
Lgeisz
Gone - bye bye.
yeikes! just hope the previous owner didn't run it with the gears set like that! and sorry I couldn't help more. :\
Why do you need to know? (Pure curiosity asking)
- Thread starter
- #5
I was wondering if there are differances between the 2.5 and 3.3 other than the motor. The reciever cannot be orig to this vehicle as it measures 1.5 in wide and the inside measurement of the rec box is 1.25 wide. Regarding it being run with that crazy mesh, I don't think so as both gears look fine and I am sure if it was run that way there would have been certain destruction. Anyway I have got larger concerns with this truck other than the easily fixed mesh. Another concern is that the tires are all wobly, it has upgraded 17mm alum hexes that seem fine but I notice there is a LOT of play where the ball joints connect to the "hub carriers". don't know if thats what there called. Needs a throttle return spring bigtime, wants to relax to half throttle position.
I am really lacking that warm and fuzzy feeling regarding this purchase. Was sposed to be RTR, but uh, not really! Seller was really nice and I believe sincere but there are issues that are prolly in the end cost me close to what I could have gotten a new one for, and of course I am not even sure how the motor runs. If it's wiped than I'm a super loser on this one. I will try to remain hopefull for now.
I am really lacking that warm and fuzzy feeling regarding this purchase. Was sposed to be RTR, but uh, not really! Seller was really nice and I believe sincere but there are issues that are prolly in the end cost me close to what I could have gotten a new one for, and of course I am not even sure how the motor runs. If it's wiped than I'm a super loser on this one. I will try to remain hopefull for now.
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The main difference is in the length of the chassis. The 3.3 has a slightly longer chassis.
- Thread starter
- #7
do you know what exactly to measure so I can figure this out? maybe front axle to rear axle, seems like an accurate point to go by, would still need to know the numbers from either a 2.5 or 3.3 to figure it out. The 3.3 is also wider, correct?
Metalhead Matt
RCTalk VIP
Make sure you use blue, removable locktite on any metal to metal connections. Especially the motor mount and cradle. They will vibrate loose causing you more mesh problems.
2revo1maxx
Hardcore RCTalk User
It probably has a bent chassis right where the engine bolts to it.
The differences are very subtle from one to the other. From the original 2.5 to the original 3.3 it's chassis, standard ratio to wide ratio, the front driveshaft, front shock mount, body, and lack of chassis brace on the 2.5r.
There's probably one or two other things, but you have a revo, that's all that really matters.
They're about 95% interchangeable from 2.5 to the latest version.
The differences are very subtle from one to the other. From the original 2.5 to the original 3.3 it's chassis, standard ratio to wide ratio, the front driveshaft, front shock mount, body, and lack of chassis brace on the 2.5r.
There's probably one or two other things, but you have a revo, that's all that really matters.
They're about 95% interchangeable from 2.5 to the latest version.
Check the gap between the top of your front shocks and the brake, that is where it was lengthened to be a 3.3.
This is a 3.3 deck:
2.5:
This is a 3.3 deck:
2.5:
3.3 has gap, 2.5 has almost no gap.
- Thread starter
- #15
thanks to all for the quick and helpfull responses so far. well, here's where I am with this project.
It is a 3.3 chassis.
spent the day going through everything, lots of missing/improper installed items.
missing, header gasket, axle carriers were missing half of the hex inserts that capture the ball studs, throttle return spring,steering linkage hinge pin was not properly aligned/captured. pipe was improperly hung on home made wire. Reciever is an earlier model that will not fit in the box. couple of missing screws here and there. The front upper arms(integy alum) were not shimmed and sliding back and forth.
I replaced the back axle carriers with RPM and used the old parts to complete the fronts, wheels not wobbly anymore. If you were going to put only one set of upgraded carriers on like I did would you put them on the rear or front?
Replaced the small parts and reinstalled the stuff that was wrong and it is looking pretty good to go.
Finally turned to the motor but it was late and only gave it a half hearted effort at starting it, no go, but that was when I realised there was no gasket so I assume the lack of back pressure was doing me no good regarding getting fuel to the carb. Anyway I was hoping to get it to atleast fire by providing a prime shot of fuel via the air intake. Heated her up real nice w heat gun but alas, nada.
I am not overly optimistic bout this motor anyway as it seems weak on compression, I will get the header gasket today and try again.
oh yeah, no chassis bend, just Frankenmesh!!
It really seems at the least that the seller really put this thing together quickly but there are a lot of alum upgrades. I am ok with buying the small stuff and of course enjoy the wrenching but if I have motor troubles I'll be lookin for something from the seller. Obviously I hope it runs good but I guess it it's a little weak I will replace w a 3.3 and keep the .18 for a winter motor. I had seen on the forum that some guys keep older motors for this purpose which seems like a great idea considering how winter running beats em up pretty good. Thanks again to all.
It is a 3.3 chassis.
spent the day going through everything, lots of missing/improper installed items.
missing, header gasket, axle carriers were missing half of the hex inserts that capture the ball studs, throttle return spring,steering linkage hinge pin was not properly aligned/captured. pipe was improperly hung on home made wire. Reciever is an earlier model that will not fit in the box. couple of missing screws here and there. The front upper arms(integy alum) were not shimmed and sliding back and forth.
I replaced the back axle carriers with RPM and used the old parts to complete the fronts, wheels not wobbly anymore. If you were going to put only one set of upgraded carriers on like I did would you put them on the rear or front?
Replaced the small parts and reinstalled the stuff that was wrong and it is looking pretty good to go.
Finally turned to the motor but it was late and only gave it a half hearted effort at starting it, no go, but that was when I realised there was no gasket so I assume the lack of back pressure was doing me no good regarding getting fuel to the carb. Anyway I was hoping to get it to atleast fire by providing a prime shot of fuel via the air intake. Heated her up real nice w heat gun but alas, nada.
I am not overly optimistic bout this motor anyway as it seems weak on compression, I will get the header gasket today and try again.
oh yeah, no chassis bend, just Frankenmesh!!
It really seems at the least that the seller really put this thing together quickly but there are a lot of alum upgrades. I am ok with buying the small stuff and of course enjoy the wrenching but if I have motor troubles I'll be lookin for something from the seller. Obviously I hope it runs good but I guess it it's a little weak I will replace w a 3.3 and keep the .18 for a winter motor. I had seen on the forum that some guys keep older motors for this purpose which seems like a great idea considering how winter running beats em up pretty good. Thanks again to all.
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- Thread starter
- #16
well.... the motor is shot. No compression as suspected and confirmed by LHS. I tore it down to see bout new sleeve and piston, but con rod and bearings shot and carb not smooth to boot. All ads up to replacement. I am inclined to just go with a traxxas 3.3 off ebay. I'm a simple basher, any opinions bout that?
- Thread starter
- #17
got a line on a new 3.3 with header and pipe shipped for 121.00 how can u beat that? LHS wanted 175 for motor alone, despite the fact that I have spent almost a grand there within the last 5 weeks!! That seriously pisses me off.
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If you have a thrashed Traxxas motor, you can use the Traxxas trade up program and get a discounted 3.3.
2revo1maxx
Hardcore RCTalk User
- Thread starter
- #20
I believe it's cheaper to buy new off ebay than use the traxxas power up program. It's a good deal from traxxas no doubt, but guys are able to sell new on ebay for less!
The 3.3 brand new on ebay from one guy I found is 96 dollars shipped!
The 3.3 brand new on ebay from one guy I found is 96 dollars shipped!