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Build Thread New to Me Mugen Sekei MBX8R

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Mister 4x4

I pass gas in your general direction
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Location
San Angelo, Texas
RC Driving Style
  1. Racing
  2. Scale Builder
So shortly after I joined this madhouse back in December, I got turned onto a local R/C track (STR Racing in San Angelo, TX), and one of the guys posted up a Facebook ad wanting to sell his Mugen 1/8 Nitro buggy. The track is all off-road, and the only off-road anything I have is my old buddy's Traxxas Nitro Hawk which I'm cleaning up and putting back together (another thread). When I saw the price, I couldn't pass it up, especially thinking that I might not get the 'Hawk running and then I'd have nothin' for the track. $400 later, I came home with this (along with spare parts, a starter box, about a half gallon of 30% nitro, and a whole bunch of hop-ups already installed - basically, this was a steal.
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The seller also tossed in Reedy servo, since he figured he didn't need the extra servo for his electric stuff (all ESCs, after all).

The weather was super cold for us in the meantime, but on nicer days, my back issues have been reminding me to take it easy until the next procedure (this coming Tuesday). So, it sat in a box in the shop/shed until yesterday when I dug it out and brought it in to finally install the new servos and receiver.
 
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Had to basically make even more space on my computer desk to fit this big ol' beastie. It's freaken huge! Anyway, here's the starting point.
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With my other cars, I would have to pretty much tear down the chassis to get to the servos, so this one was a treat to work on. Just had to pull the servo deck and receiver battery tray.
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Once I got it out, I was able to load up the cool Nitro Pro FX-N500FST steering servo and Reedy 1523MG throttle servo.
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After that, tossed one of my FlySky FS-BS6 receivers on with some servo tape and coiled the wires (t take up some slack).
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The LiPo receiver pack actually still had some juice in it, so I "Binded" the receiver to my FlySky FS-GT5 radio, and learned the NitroPro steering servo was parked far left when they sent it. No biggie - just popped the servo arm off and re-positioned once the servo was homed back to center.

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I can't believe how snappy that steering servo it, and I can't wait to try it all out. I'm not sure about all that toe-out the previous owner used, but I guess most off-road racers like it that way.

This body is SOOOO boring. Those stickers are coming off and since I'm stuck with the yellow, I need to find a way to spiff this up a bit. Got a few ideas swirling around.
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So there it is for now. Not much to look at, but I think it's going to be a little hot rod.
 
I’ve been waiting patiently for this one!! I’ve got the exact same car-just says “Associated” on it.. Definitely as many, or more Mugen parts on it as yours though at this point…🤷🏻‍♂️😂 I’ll be following along, and having the obligatory seizure(s) over the bench “condition” with each post! 🤣🤣🤣
 
Thanks for the tip on that NitroPro servo - that sucker's a BEAST! I just need to figure out if I can set the radio/receiver up for progressive rate steering now and either get used to or dial-out some of that toe-out the previous owner set-up. I never ran that much on my road cars, since it made them too twitchy for my liking. Gonna drive it as-is before I start messing with that, though.
 
Thanks for the tip on that NitroPro servo - that sucker's a BEAST! I just need to figure out if I can set the radio/receiver up for progressive rate steering now and either get used to or dial-out some of that toe-out the previous owner set-up. I never ran that much on my road cars, since it made them too twitchy for my liking. Gonna drive it as-is before I start messing with that, though.
Have you driven many pillow ball cars? They like the toe out up front much more so than a c-hub car. You’re also gonna be dialing in on your steering entry, mid, and exit with REAR settings too. I’d personally play with rear toe, and camber links (short vs long), as well as height on the tower for roll center changes before taking out front toe. Diff weights are crucial for a pillow ball car as well.. Then swaybars diameter would be worth looking at.. shock position as well..

Making electronic changes via the radio to band-aid a mechanical setup issue at the car is the last thing I’d wanna do.. Just food for thought. 😉

When you have 45min, and some learning ability on tap-give this a watch. Absolutely invaluable info, for exactly what you need to know imo. 🍻🤘

 
Thanks for the tips and video - I'll check it out before I take it out for spin.

Actually, my SuperTen has upper and lower pillow balls front and rear, and I run it with a tiny bit of rear toe-in and almost neutral front toe (slightly in) with the slightest bit of negative camber up front, the rears are almost flat, since it has staggered wheels (2.0 front & rear buggy wheels with Road Hawg I & III tires, respectively).
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It drives like it's on rails, which I got used to on the road courses. I saw most of the 'experts' at RCCA would build their TCs with the same rear toe-in and front toe-out the Mugen has, and on the road it was a twitchy handful when I tried setting it up like that.

Come to think of it, my SuperTen is basically the same design as the Mugen, but with upper and lower chassis plates, instead of an actual pan chassis.

The only thing I'm really wanting from the radio is to [hopefully] get some progressive-rate steering (less response in the middle 40-50%, and full-on after that toward the extremities) so I don't wind up twitching to the left or right every time I touch the wheel. If I can't figure out how to make that happen, I'll just hafta remember not to crank it going into every turn. The FlySky doesn't have a lot of travel on the steering control, so I'm guessing I'll just have to be gentle with it. My old Kraft/KO Propo radio didn't have all the fancy settings this FS-GT5 has, so I'll need to get used to it as well.
 
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