New revo big block mount in town!

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Found a few threads via google on other places that noted you could use the traxxas bb kit but you had to use a tigerdrive rotostart instead of the pull starter. It has a more low profile housing. Also read that you need to shave the arm to clear it or find an arm with the kink in it.

I believe this is the one for the LRP 32 s2: http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXLYX9

Per this page: https://sullivanproducts.com/TigerDriveXrefmainframe.htm

Or, it seems if you hack up the chassis, you can use the traxxas bb kit by moving the trans forward quite a bit, grinding out the engine bay for the flywheel, modifying the servo box for clearance and using 1/10 scale clutch vs the 1/8th scale you'd want to run.

Found these photo's doing search's vi google:
2016-1010-ShoeHornRevoBB-CB01.jpg

2016-1010-ShoeHornRevoBB-TransMoved.jpg

2016-1010-ShoeHornRevoBB-EngineSide.jpg

2016-1010-ShoeHornRevoBB-EngineFront.jpg

2016-1010-ShoeHornRevoBB-CB03.jpg

2016-1010-ShoeHornRevoBB-CB02.jpg


If you go that route, I'd highly suggest getting the M2C engine bay plate:
https://www.amainhobbies.com/m2c-racing-traxxas-revo-slayer-motor-brace-m2c1020/p175297
 
Found a few threads via google on other places that noted you could use the traxxas bb kit but you had to use a tigerdrive rotostart instead of the pull starter. It has a more low profile housing. Also read that you need to shave the arm to clear it or find an arm with the kink in it.

I believe this is the one for the LRP 32 s2: http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXLYX9

Per this page: https://sullivanproducts.com/TigerDriveXrefmainframe.htm

Or, it seems if you hack up the chassis, you can use the traxxas bb kit by moving the trans forward quite a bit, grinding out the engine bay for the flywheel, modifying the servo box for clearance and using 1/10 scale clutch vs the 1/8th scale you'd want to run.

Found these photo's doing search's vi google:
2016-1010-ShoeHornRevoBB-CB01.jpg

2016-1010-ShoeHornRevoBB-TransMoved.jpg

2016-1010-ShoeHornRevoBB-EngineSide.jpg

2016-1010-ShoeHornRevoBB-EngineFront.jpg

2016-1010-ShoeHornRevoBB-CB03.jpg

2016-1010-ShoeHornRevoBB-CB02.jpg


If you go that route, I'd highly suggest getting the M2C engine bay plate:
https://www.amainhobbies.com/m2c-racing-traxxas-revo-slayer-motor-brace-m2c1020/p175297
Ouff I'm trying to get away without drilling my vantage CF frame @ all. I guess it's wait for a new era to pop up online with new era I'd be able to mount the 32 with pull start?
 
Ouff I'm trying to get away without drilling my vantage CF frame @ all. I guess it's wait for a new era to pop up online with new era I'd be able to mount the 32 with pull start?
It's racking my head I pulled the trigger on cnc ofna mount and ofna JL.28 MAX her in two weeks for rebuild then Revo is up for sale
 
Ouff I'm trying to get away without drilling my vantage CF frame @ all. I guess it's wait for a new era to pop up online with new era I'd be able to mount the 32 with pull start?
So, you have CF (which is lightened for racing) and you want a ridiculous big block in it? I'm pretty sure that big engine would over stress the CF anyway with or without the NewEra mount. You might be better off looking into installing a mod'd OS18TZ in that thing.
 
Most of the C/F chassis for the Revo that I saw had problems holding up under a healthy .18 and cracked around the motor mounts or shock towers from the big air that the racers caught on the jumps.
 
Most of the C/F chassis for the Revo that I saw had problems holding up under a healthy .18 and cracked around the motor mounts or shock towers from the big air that the racers caught on the jumps.
So far it has held up I've had the picco 26 max for almost 4 years I've been pretty hard on it
 
The only reason I mentioned it is because I'm on my 2nd aluminum chassis. On my first one, I used only the traxxas engine bay plate/brace, it started to crack and I broke 2 engine cradle/brace sets that attach to the bulkhead. So far, the new M2C brace/plate seems to be doing a better job.
 
Ouff I'm trying to get away without drilling my vantage CF frame @ all. I guess it's wait for a new era to pop up online with new era I'd be able to mount the 32 with pull start?
I know this is an older thread, but thought I'd post a guy I forgot about on youtube that was making a leaner mount/kit at one point:
https://www.youtube.com/user/CkeithNitro
Anyone looking might want to send him a message to see if he still has any. He had comments on his slayer video 8 months ago listing the price for the kit at $80.
 
Bouncing this back up - I have a new/unused Ckeithnitro mount including the linkage kit he provided. I have no plans to use it because I got super lucky and scored a set new era rear upper arms with the cut out for the pull start. This allowed me to run the traxxas mount with my big block. So this mount is available if anyone wants to repower their revo for ludicrous speed. PM me if interested.
 
Sti
Roach bug are you talking about
Sti
Roach bug are you talking about
Thanks for the write up. The finish on that one is not up to my standards for what I would sell, but the sizing/fit checked good. At the moment,I cannot do the linkage. The rod included in the kits I have are just a tad short to make work. I found a source for longer pieces but I haven't obtained any yet. Frankly,I'm not sure it's worth the effort and may just let buyers fend for themselves on linkage. Also I'm not sure how much stiffer your setup is,but the standard single wire I used felt about the same to me.

Anyhow,glad to know it works :)
Thanks for the write up. The finish on that one is not up to my standards for what I would sell, but the sizing/fit checked good. At the moment,I cannot do the linkage. The rod included in the kits I have are just a tad short to make work. I found a source for longer pieces but I haven't obtained any yet. Frankly,I'm not sure it's worth the effort and may just let buyers fend for themselves on linkage. Also I'm not sure how much stiffer your setup is,but the standard single wire I used felt about the same to me.

Anyhow,glad to know it wor

Thanks for the write up. The finish on that one is not up to my standards for what I would sell, but the sizing/fit checked good. At the moment,I cannot do the linkage. The rod included in the kits I have are just a tad short to make work. I found a source for longer pieces but I haven't obtained any yet. Frankly,I'm not sure it's worth the effort and may just let buyers fend for themselves on linkage. Also I'm not sure how much stiffer your setup is,but the standard single wire I used felt about the same to me.

Anyhow,glad to know it works :)
Thanks for the write up. The finish on that one is not up to my standards for what I would sell, but the sizing/fit checked good. At the moment,I cannot do the linkage. The rod included in the kits I have are just a tad short to make work. I found a source for longer pieces but I haven't obtained any yet. Frankly,I'm not sure it's worth the effort and may just let buyers fend for themselves on linkage. Also I'm not sure how much stiffer your setup is,but the standard single wire I used felt about the same to me.

Anyhow,glad to know it works :)
Hey how can i contact you, looking for a bb mount my email is [email protected]
sooooo, do I get to be first in line for the first one for sale?
Do you have a bb mount still?
 
Last edited:
Nope, haven't made these in years. From what I can tell, CKeithNitro found out the same thing I did. There isn't enough market to make these worth it for the amount of work it take to make them..
 
I redid my header a little bit a couple years ago. I still had the THS BB header in a drawer, the issue with it as it was was that it was intended to use with the traxxas BB mount which puts the engine down much lower and more level with the chassis. So it wasn't bent/twisted right to work well at all with the taller leaner style mount. I still used the piece of the LST header that connected to the engine, but cut the THS header and used the bent part to remove some of the excessive bend I put in the cut LST header to make it work.
2019-0128-RevoBB-ModifiedHeaderTop.jpg


Still ends up laying pretty flat, but the pipe isn't kinked/smashed so much now on the bend:
2020-0723-BBRevo-RCRavenSprings-engineSide.jpg


I haven't run either my BB revo or SB OS21TM revo in over a year... electric is what I prefer. I still have them though. This was the last run with the big block revo, 08/08/2020:
 

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