New problem with Mugen build. Please Help!!!

[CessnaDriver]

I am working on putting the clutch on the engine. The engine comes with a cone shaped washer that the flywheel sits against.

BTW the engine is the Novarossi P5X

In the Mugen manual it shows a washer going inbetween the cone shaped thing. However I didn't see that until I had already put the flywheel on and tightned it and tryed to put the clutch shoes on and the spring didn't line up where they were supposed to go on the locknut.

Now I can't get the flywheel off. Do I need a special tool to get that thing off?

Also on the bell housing there are two ball bearings that go on both sides, but they do not fit over the shaft on the engine. Do I need to take off the screw on the engine shaft to put the bearings and bell house on? I was going to try that, put then I was looking at the blown-up version of the engine sheet and that screw goes directly into the crank shaft and I'm not sure if by removing that screw from the crank shaft if I would screw anything up.

Thanks

 

[HeartBreak]

I am working on putting the clutch on the engine. The engine comes with a cone shaped washer that the flywheel sits against.

BTW the engine is the Novarossi P5X

In the Mugen manual it shows a washer going inbetween the cone shaped thing. However I didn't see that until I had already put the flywheel on and tightned it and tryed to put the clutch shoes on and the spring didn't line up where they were supposed to go on the locknut.

Now I can't get the flywheel off. Do I need a special tool to get that thing off?

In short, no. All you have to do is grip the flywheel with some channel lock pliers, and take the nut off. Next, put the crankshaft onto a table, and give the flywheel a couple of taps from behind... Just a couple gentle taps, and it should fall right off.

Also on the bell housing there are two ball bearings that go on both sides, but they do not fit over the shaft on the engine. Do I need to take off the screw on the engine shaft to put the bearings and bell house on? I was going to try that, put then I was looking at the blown-up version of the engine sheet and that screw goes directly into the crank shaft and I'm not sure if by removing that screw from the crank shaft if I would screw anything up.

Thanks

Yup, take the screw out. The end of the crankshaft is threaded. If you take the screw out to put the clutch on, you'll be just fine.

 

[itsme]

First off when you say the washer going on the cone shape thing are they showing it goin on before the brass collet,that shouldn't be, as for getting the flywheel off that will take some gentle coaxing with some vise grips and a couple of gentle taps on the backside of the flywheel and the screw in the end of the crank must be removed before the installation of the shims,bearings and clutchbell hope that helps ya out a bit.

 

[vgibbens]

Putting that washer before the collet won't affect the clutch springs lining up on the clutch nut. It's the spacing built into both the flywheel and the clutch nut. I noticed this as well with my Xray and the Mugen. They both use what seems to me as an identical setup for the flywheel and clutchnut. They line up better without putting those little shims behind the clutch shoes, but then, I hear there's a chance of the shoe binding. Although, I've never had that problem. BTW, IME with the Mugen and the P5X, don't put the washer before the collet, it moves the flywheel a little too far forward and makes it so you have a little less teeth contact between the clutchbell and the spur gear. This also moves the flywheel more forward in the hole in the chassis and made it a little more difficult to start that tight ass engine, cause the starter wheel was catching it on it's edge.

 

[CessnaDriver]

First off when you say the washer going on the cone shape thing are they showing it goin on before the brass collet,that shouldn't be, as for getting the flywheel off that will take some gentle coaxing with some vise grips and a couple of gentle taps on the backside of the flywheel and the screw in the end of the crank must be removed before the installation of the shims,bearings and clutchbell hope that helps ya out a bit.

The engine came with the cone shaped thing (brass collet) on it already , so I figured that there was no need to take anything off of the engine to complete the clutch setup.

The Mugen parts did come with an additional cone shaped thing (brass collet ?), so I don't think all engines have them from the factory.

The Mugen manual shows that a spacer/washer goes before that cone shaped thing (brass collet), and then the flywheel goes on and then the locknut to tighen the flywheel.

But the engine came stock with the brass collet already on with no spacers or washers.

Ok, I think I have figured it all out.

I re-read the instructions again, and it says that the washer is if you need to adjust for the bell housing. I also refitted the cltuch shoes and they are fitting fine.

The screw from the engine shaft comes out without any consequences of the internals of the engine and the ball bearings slide right on.

Thanks everybody for your quick responses. What a great site this is.

Putting that washer before the collet won't affect the clutch springs lining up on the clutch nut. It's the spacing built into both the flywheel and the clutch nut. I noticed this as well with my Xray and the Mugen. They both use what seems to me as an identical setup for the flywheel and clutchnut. They line up better without putting those little shims behind the clutch shoes, but then, I hear there's a chance of the shoe binding. Although, I've never had that problem. BTW, IME with the Mugen and the P5X, don't put the washer before the collet, it moves the flywheel a little too far forward and makes it so you have a little less teeth contact between the clutchbell and the spur gear. This also moves the flywheel more forward in the hole in the chassis and made it a little more difficult to start that tight ass engine, cause the starter wheel was catching it on it's edge.

Yes, you are absolutley right. I just figured that out right before I saw your post. That spacer has nothing to do with the spring sitting on the nut alignment.

I am not going to take the flywheel off to put that spacer before the collet, for the reason you just mentioned. So it looks like I am good to go.

I am such a newbie to this, but I am learning.

Again, thanks for the quick responses, you are all awesome.

 

[itsme]

Glad we all could be of assistance to you, thats what were all here for to help one another out.